New 2012 Scamp 13' owner - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-30-2011, 11:55 PM   #1
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Name: John
Trailer: 13' 2012 Scamp
Wisconsin
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New 2012 Scamp 13' owner

Just got back today from picking up the new Scamp in Backus.

You can see the options we chose from my other "Order placed, now comes the waiting" thread.

Had a long, but nice drive up there and camped 2 nights on the return. We stayed at Gull Lake recreation area near Brainerd run by the US Army COE for $13 the first night. Nice place - all electric sites and ~30 min south of the factory in case we needed to return Sat morning. The first night picture is below.

Only real snag was the 2003 Toyota 4runner factory hitch has the RV plug on the far left side and the Scamp plug is routed from the right side and there wasn't enough slack in the cable to allow a normal right turn. Scamp didn't have any way to make the cable longer (they buy them all predone I guess). Found an RV dealer in Brainerd that made us up a 1' extender plug which was perfect.

Second night we drove down to Trempealeau, WI and stayed at Perrot State Park and had a great meal as usual at the Trempealeau Hotel (est 1871).

Had fantastic weather mostly; last day back home was rain, but that provided a great early test for leaks - none that I could find.

Was initially surprised I lost both storage areas under the seats; didn't realize the hot water heater & converter takes up the other one.

Early reactions from 3 days of ownership:
- LOVE having hot water and the toilet & shower so convenient
- Overall build quality is pretty high
- Everything worked
- LOVE the furnace; was on the fence a little about this when ordering, but the convenience and out of the way location and effectiveness with minimal condensation vs. a Mr. Buddy or other solutions was fantastic; yes it is noisy, but I fall back asleep quickly and given the remarks here I really thought it was going to be even louder than it is.
- One of my extra lights wasn't centered between the stove & sink as requested, but was mounted right above the sink instead; 8" isn't that big a deal I guess
- One of my extra AC outlets was mounted 1" above the floor instead of as high in the seat cabinet as possible (near your knee) - annoying as now we can't plug in unless you crawl under and it is right along the back wall so you really have to crawl. I sent detailed pictures of exactly where I wanted this so this was disappointing.
- The standard AC outlet near the thermostat and water pump switch is a poorly designed location; the seat cushion covers it.
- Setup and tear down is fast
- Love the head room of the newer models; my 5' 11" height never hits anything
- Tows well
- Pleasant surprise that the paperwork has 2012 as the model year; slightly better resale value some day perhaps
- Bottom 2" of door was soaked after towing in the rain for several hours
- Factory tour was totally worth doing; more information for later remodeling/maintenance if needed
- Yellow magnetic hitching rods are awesome for connecting to tow vehicle first time, every time
- Can't believe the RV industry can't figure out a better fresh water tank inlet cover in the past 20+ years. Trying to hold a large, heavy 5 gallon water jug to refill the tank while keeping the little cover flap open is an exercise in frustration
- Waking up on Sunday to rain and still being able to have coffee, cook bacon & pancakes, and get cleaned and dressed in warmth and not having to pack up a cold, muddy wet tent is priceless.

There was a handy scale on the way into town and being the curious type, I weighed it with normal camping gear in it (sleeping bags, a bit of food, fridge full of stuff, couple of pans & kitchen items, key tools). Fresh, gray & black water tanks empty. 1600 lb + 240 lb tongue weight = 1840 lb total. Had a heavy 40 lb cooler in there that would be unusual so deduct that. Heavier than I thought and the propane tank is probably mostly empty after such cold temps all weekend.

Only real excitement of the 3 days was suddenly finding us unable to exit the camper. The door handle was working fine for 2+ days and now for some reason it wouldn't quite unlatch all the way to where I could open the door from the inside. 5 minutes of messing around trying to get some leverage on it finally got it open. I was worried the whole darn assembly was now stuck or broke or something. A bit of post analysis revealed that the key lock doesn't have much friction and when I unlocked the camper after dinner to enter, the weight of the key chain must have rotated the key slightly and when I removed the key, the door lock was actually in the locked position. But we didn't realize that and merrily entered the camper and closed the door. And then found the problem 90 minutes later when I tried to exit with no way to unlock the door from the interior. The whole handle & lock assembly has a lot more slop than I'd like (even before this). But fortunately everything seems to still work - just need to be very careful from now on. Still, after 30+ years of making these things, this is the best they can come up with?

Peeked at a 13' Deluxe Scamp with toilet & bathroom that was soon to be delivered. Lovely interior, but seeing the dramatic loss of closet storage space convinced us we made the right choice with the standard model. And after I weighed it, I was even happier we didn't go Deluxe for us.

Looking forward to many happy years of memories.
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Scamp4.jpg   Scamp5.jpg  

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Old 10-31-2011, 06:12 AM   #2
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Name: Jesse
Trailer: 1984 Scamp 13'
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Other than a few glitches, it sounds like you had a good experience. I would love to tow our 27 year old Scamp to Backus and take the tour while they replace the axle.

Too bad they mislead people about the weight. Also too bad there is no room to move the axle forward in order to remove some weight from the tongue. I ended up relocating the battery under the dinette seat. I also just upgraded to a fiberglass propane tank.

Have fun with your Scamp!
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Old 10-31-2011, 10:12 AM   #3
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How exciting, love the pictures of the Scamp factory.
Door lock - that very same thing happened to me when we were brining our 2010 Scamp home - 2nd owner. Got locked in the home depot parking lot!
Totally agree with you re: how some little changes would make things a whole lot better. Disapointing that they didn't listen to what you requested but sounds like you are happy overall.
Happy camping.
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Old 10-31-2011, 11:26 AM   #4
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I'm glad you weighed it, that proves once again that the deluxe weighs no more than a comparably equipped standard.
Nice pictures and great trailer, your gonna love it more with more use!
What color is the inside?
I noticed that you had them delete the slinky tube on the front... Great Idea! It looks much better that way. The tube is too small and turns yellow anyway.
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Old 10-31-2011, 02:58 PM   #5
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Congrats on your new arrival!

Inquiring minds want to see..what color is the inside? The more you use it, the more you'll love it. I can't say enough how much we love ours. Maybe we Wisconsinites could get a local rally going? Of course, all others welcome too.
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Old 10-31-2011, 06:38 PM   #6
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Shiny! And you didn't even need to Red Max Pro Enjoy every moment of every camping trip... let the memories begin!!!
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Old 10-31-2011, 07:03 PM   #7
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Name: John
Trailer: 13' 2012 Scamp
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I requested that they don't mount the slinky tube, but just give me it loose to decide what to do later on. If I want to punch 4 holes in the exterior I will, but the default location seemed really dumb to me and I'm convinced I can find some alternative solution/location that would be better, both functionally and aesthetically.

After the first dump at Gull Lake as a test to make sure all the valves worked I discovered the default "10 foot" hose they supply is laughable. We stopped at the camping world in rodgers on the way back into Minneapolis and bought a proper 15' Rhino w/ attachments and covers. And this would never fit in the tiny slinky container they provide - would need the next size up anyway. Thinking we might try to do some bumper mount thing or something.

Overall we love the Scamp - far better than anything else we thought of for a camper. It is simply the perfectionist engineer in me that thinks after just a day or two of using it, you can find 3 or 4 things that would be trivial to change in the manufacturing that would really improve it. Why they don't do such things is beyond me since they have 30+ years of feedback.

I ordered a set of 5 LED lights from superbrightleds.com - the WLED-xHP10-DAC fits the current model of 12V DC lights they are using perfectly. And for once, the design of the light covers makes perfect sense - they simply slide in one direction and you can remove them easily - no prying and hope you don't break a plastic tab or anything required! Love the warm look of these lights and they are just a slight hair dimmer than the factory incandescent bulbs.

Have yet to mount the amber 1156-x45-T that we got for the exterior porch light; maybe tonight.

Only color choice for the interior was brown, green, or blue cushions. We chose green sight unseen. We had seen the blue in person and liked those, but hoped the green would be brighter. Alas, not to be. The green cushions look brown in anything but direct outside sunlight. Probably should have switched for blue, but didn't bother at the factory.

The curtain rods are another one of those things that with 5 minutes of design could be solved. The rods continually fall down and the curtains have no easy supplied tie backs.

I guess this is all opportunity for customization to get the trailer tweaked out and "sweet"
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Old 10-31-2011, 07:20 PM   #8
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Nice looking rig! Enjoy.
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Old 10-31-2011, 07:53 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnF View Post
I requested that they don't mount the slinky tube, but just give me it loose to decide what to do later on. If I want to punch 4 holes in the exterior I will, but the default location seemed really dumb to me and I'm convinced I can find some alternative solution/location that would be better, both functionally and aesthetically.

After the first dump at Gull Lake as a test to make sure all the valves worked I discovered the default "10 foot" hose they supply is laughable. We stopped at the camping world in rodgers on the way back into Minneapolis and bought a proper 15' Rhino w/ attachments and covers. And this would never fit in the tiny slinky container they provide - would need the next size up anyway. Thinking we might try to do some bumper mount thing or something.

Overall we love the Scamp - far better than anything else we thought of for a camper. It is simply the perfectionist engineer in me that thinks after just a day or two of using it, you can find 3 or 4 things that would be trivial to change in the manufacturing that would really improve it. Why they don't do such things is beyond me since they have 30+ years of feedback.

I ordered a set of 5 LED lights from superbrightleds.com - the WLED-xHP10-DAC fits the current model of 12V DC lights they are using perfectly. And for once, the design of the light covers makes perfect sense - they simply slide in one direction and you can remove them easily - no prying and hope you don't break a plastic tab or anything required! Love the warm look of these lights and they are just a slight hair dimmer than the factory incandescent bulbs.

Have yet to mount the amber 1156-x45-T that we got for the exterior porch light; maybe tonight.

Only color choice for the interior was brown, green, or blue cushions. We chose green sight unseen. We had seen the blue in person and liked those, but hoped the green would be brighter. Alas, not to be. The green cushions look brown in anything but direct outside sunlight. Probably should have switched for blue, but didn't bother at the factory.

The curtain rods are another one of those things that with 5 minutes of design could be solved. The rods continually fall down and the curtains have no easy supplied tie backs.

I guess this is all opportunity for customization to get the trailer tweaked out and "sweet"
We use a white fence post attached to the rear bumper to hold our longer sewer hose. We keep a shorter sewer hose in the standard front container. 75% of the time the shorter one is enough. I 'd say about 25% of the time the longer one is necessary and rarely we need them both.

We resolved the curtain rods bouncing off by using small clear tywraps to hold them in place. Totally resolves the issue.

We only use a tie back on one side of the rear windows. The other windows we push the curtain to the side that doesn't open. We create a tie back on the rear window by backing out a screw and attaching the tie back to the screw.

I think part of ownership is in the customization. By the way we painted our front sewer hose holder with white gloss to protect the plastic from the Sun.
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Old 10-31-2011, 08:05 PM   #10
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Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA, 2014
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I love my Scamp, but drilling holes through the body to install curtain rod holders is flat NUTZ. There are four holes for every curtain rod. If you have two side windows, one back window, one front window... that equals 16 holes just for curtain rods! Add a window on the door and curtain rods top and bottom... you've got 8 more holes through the body for a total of 24 unnecessary future leak points (IMHO). There are much better methods for adding curtain rods. Here's one!
Click image for larger version

Name:	BarOnWindowForCurtains.jpg
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No body holes!
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Old 11-01-2011, 02:48 AM   #11
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Cool Holy Egg!

I agree with you Donna. I often wonder why the egg manufacturers tout one piece construction to avoid leaks, and then proceed to drill all kinds of holes in the shell. And they all do it.

Go figure!
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Old 11-01-2011, 03:21 AM   #12
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Congratulations! That sure looks like a cute little trailer!

I'm surprised they fit a full show we, bath, and black/grey water tanks on that little thing. We just got a 2012 Trillium, and opted to go without. Funny, some of the things you noted being frustrating were sort of nice points of the trillium...there are probably equally frustrating other points though that we just haven't gotten to yet!

Again, congrats. It really looks nice behind that 4 Runner, and you'll have so many great memories from it!
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Old 11-01-2011, 09:29 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by honda03842 View Post
We use a white fence post attached to the rear bumper to hold our longer sewer hose. We keep a shorter sewer hose in the standard front container. 75% of the time the shorter one is enough. I 'd say about 25% of the time the longer one is necessary and rarely we need them both.

We resolved the curtain rods bouncing off by using small clear tywraps to hold them in place. Totally resolves the issue.

We only use a tie back on one side of the rear windows. The other windows we push the curtain to the side that doesn't open. We create a tie back on the rear window by backing out a screw and attaching the tie back to the screw.

I think part of ownership is in the customization. By the way we painted our front sewer hose holder with white gloss to protect the plastic from the Sun.
Here is our solution for longer slinky storage...The end plugs were the most expensive part at $5 a piece....
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Old 11-01-2011, 01:26 PM   #14
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Trailer: Lance 1985~'Casita de Campo' ~23' 4"~Dinette Slide Previously: Scamp 16 ft Side Dinette, Front Bath
New Mexico
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Hola! from Las Cruces, New Mexico.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger C H View Post
I agree with you Donna. I often wonder why the egg manufacturers tout one piece construction to avoid leaks, and then proceed to drill all kinds of holes in the shell. And they all do it.

Go figure!
Ditto, we had one of these causing a leak this summer while camping, water would make it was down the side & come out through the marine fabric where it met the 'mattress' bedding. Right by my wife's elbow.

TempFix was to put clear packing tape over them.

Likewise, twice we have had a leak from the roof where the TV antenna direction control deal comes into the trailer. Seems I finally got that one stopped. I jerry rigged a cover on to & over the unit's shaft using a plumber's helper, which I had to split to fit over it. But 'glued' it back together using silicone. It was black rubber and doesn't appear too blatantly as being jerry rigged. But the direction control still works, but all is covered. I was almost ready to just silicone it all together, but it would be stationary then. I would not order one if doing it again, but they may have have better unit now. ?
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...ls/anntana.jpg

As for the slinkly, it is short, but I still have the original one & have been using it 100% of the time. However, we seldom if ever have the option of having a site with a sewer drain near it. When we do, I use a 'garden' hose to reach it with the grey water, no need for a slinkly to do this. I did purchase a heaver weight slinkly, but just keep it as a spare if the original on fails. As for a place to mount the 'slinky' carrier, I believe I would try doing it under the tongue, below the battery. We have Bal-jacks welded under there, they hang down about as much as a carrier would. No problems have arrived with them there.

We visited a Wal-Mart after we took possession of our trailer & purchased a grey water Termination Cap with Hose Connector, similar to: Valterra Products - Termination Cap with Hose Connector - Sewer Fittings - Camping World. With it we can reach any spot to drain the grey tank without bothering with the slinky. At dumpsite, we have always been able to use the 10' one, but, yes, a longer would be nice at times.

We found the toilet seat a little too high from the shower floor, and the 'rim' of the shower/toilet platform a little narrow and using it as a foot rest was going to cause a crack in it, therefore, I bought a small sheet of wood sub-flooring and cut a piece to fix over the shower floor. It rest on top of the rim around 3 sides of the shower. It covers the floor of the shower when it is not being used as a shower. It makes a very solid floor for the bathroom & for using the toilet. It does cut down on the head room, my wife can stand up, but I can not do so without bending my head to the side. I have not found this a problem. If I am in there, I am setting down. Keep the floor of the shower clean as well.
Removable floor over shower floor:

The factory left a fairly large piece of carpet over the installed carpet (to keep it clean, I assume) which I used to cover the new shower subfloor.

To keep the toilet from getting wet while showering, we use a second expandable curtain rod placed by the installed curtain rod across to the wall (front of the trailer). We purchase a new curtain & used the whole curtain to run half on the existing rod & then to continue on to the new rod. Works very well. To help keep any water from running around the toilet, we have a designated towel to roll up and place around the base of the pedestal. We also have two suction cups place one the fiberglass of the shower wall to pin the side of the shower curtain to with clothes pins, to help keep any water from getting behind it. Less area to have to wipe down after showering. We allow the shower floor to dry completely after toweling it off before placing the subfloor back over it.

JohnF, wrote, "Bottom 2" of door was soaked after towing in the rain for several hours". That doesn't seem good, I have never notices this happening in ours. Perhaps the rubber 'gasket' at the bottom of the door is not keeping water out, may need to check this out. Maybe add a second one. ??? We have had ours for 6 years, I see the 'gasket' is not in too good of shape now, but maybe we have not driven in hard enough rain to see this happening. This 'gasket' or whatever it's real title would be was not 'glued' down very tight on ours from the get go. I had to re-glue it.

Oh, yes, I just remember something. On using ours one last time in 2005 (we got it late - early Sept), while camped at City of Rocks State Park, we found the fuse to be blown by the battery. After mentioning this to the camp host, he suggested we had a short perhaps were the power lines run into the trailer from the battery. Sure enough, the metal clamp used to secure the power cord bundle to the body of the fiberglass where it run through this fiberglass into the 'closet' in front of the trailer had one wire clamped in it's 'teeth' and had cut to the wire, thus shorting out the fuse.

It was an easy fix, I just had to tape the wire well & add silicone to help keep out moisture. I was thankful I mentioned not having power from the battery. Not sure if I would have thought to look there or not. It has now been 6 years and no more trouble from it.
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...els/aclamp.jpg

As for "door lock was actually in the locked position," I was able to do the same thing in 2007 while camping above Colorado Springs, CO. Could open the door in the morning, but my son & his family were near by. I was able to call him using FRS (walkie talkies), he came over & I gave him the key through a window. Otherwise, I'd have had to go out the escape hatch, then off the roof. Not happened again.

As for, "Can't believe the RV industry can't figure out a better fresh water tank inlet cover in the past 20+ years. Trying to hold a large, heavy 5 gallon water jug to refill the tank while keeping the little cover flap open is an exercise in frustration." I believe the RV industry has a better inlet cover (not sure if they will work on the Scamp's layout for the bed & water tank. If yours has the same one as ours:
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...nletat1335.jpg
That style is maybe 30 or 40 yrs. old. Most of the RVs have locking covers for the fresh water, which are recessed into the body of the trailer or RV. Casitas have this style. The only one I could find a photo of was smaller than I was remembering, but it seems it would be much better. http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...key-lock/21924 The other TT & C-class MH we had had some like these. Not sure if this is what Casita uses or not. The larger sized deal I was thinking of was for the electrical shore power hose opening, also lockable. http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...ble-hatch/1856

I believe it is the size of the opening & were the bed is (as I mentioned before), not the knowing about these other fill options. Cut-Out Dimensions: 4 3/8"H x 3 1/8"W with Outside Dimensions: 6 1/4"H x 5"W
But it would be nice to have these instead of the other one.

We carry 26 gals of fresh water & use this system to transfer it: http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fu...9.cfm#25106709
These links are to posts of ways of filling the tank:
http://www.casitaclub.com/forums/top...age__p__147552
http://www.casitaclub.com/forums/top...age__p__116865
Yes, Casita does use one like the one at Camping World. Which has been around for at least since 1983, the year of our first TT.

Transfer Water at Colorado Nat'l Mon't 2010.

For easy leveling, we use the 'lego-like' blocks, something like these:
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...s-8-pack/43849 But at Wal-Mart.

AW's 'Shot Gun' of Reminisces ~ Sites & Sights West of Mississippi River basically. None in Wisconsin, but some up by Duluth & up to Thunder Bay.

2005 16' Scamp Molded Fiberglass Travel Trailer
Side Dinette, Front Shower & Head
2009 White Ford F-150 Reg. Cab
Long Bed with A.R.E. Molded Fiberglass Topper

Our Rig:
At City of Rocks State Park
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...0/DSC02071.jpg

At Silver Campground - Lincoln Nat'l Forest Near Cloudcroft, NM
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...s/DSC00322.jpg

At the Tunnel Vista leaving Lincoln Nat'l Forest area going to Alamogordo
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...s/EggCrew2.jpg
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