from Las Cruces, New Mexico.
Originally Posted by Roger C H
I agree with you Donna. I often wonder why the egg manufacturers tout one piece construction to avoid leaks
, and then proceed to drill all kinds of holes in the shell. And they all do it.
Ditto, we had one of these causing a leak this summer while camping, water would make it was down the side & come out through the marine fabric where it met the 'mattress' bedding. Right by my wife's elbow.
TempFix was to put clear packing tape over them.
Likewise, twice we have had a leak from the roof where the TV antenna direction control deal comes into the trailer. Seems I finally got that one stopped. I jerry rigged a cover on to & over the unit's shaft using a plumber's helper, which I had to split to fit over it. But 'glued' it back together using silicone. It was black rubber and doesn't appear too blatantly as being jerry rigged. But the direction control still works, but all is covered. I was almost ready to just silicone it all together, but it would be stationary then. I would not order one if doing it again, but they may have have better unit now. ?
As for the slinkly, it is short, but I still have the original one & have been using it 100% of the time. However, we seldom if ever have the option of having a site with a sewer drain near it. When we do, I use a 'garden' hose to reach it with the grey water, no need for a slinkly to do this. I did purchase a heaver weight slinkly, but just keep it as a spare if the original on fails. As for a place to mount the 'slinky' carrier, I believe I would try doing it under the tongue, below the battery
. We have Bal-jacks welded under there, they hang down about as much as a carrier would. No problems have arrived with them there.
We visited a Wal-Mart after we took possession of our trailer & purchased a grey water Termination Cap with Hose Connector, similar to: Valterra Products - Termination Cap with Hose Connector - Sewer Fittings - Camping World
. With it we can reach any spot to drain the grey tank without bothering with the slinky. At dumpsite, we have always been able to use the 10' one, but, yes, a longer would be nice at times.
We found the toilet seat a little too high from the shower floor, and the 'rim' of the shower/toilet platform a little narrow and using it as a foot rest was going to cause a crack in it, therefore, I bought a small sheet of wood sub-flooring and cut a piece to fix over the shower floor. It rest on top of the rim around 3 sides of the shower. It covers the floor of the shower when it is not being used as a shower. It makes a very solid floor for the bathroom & for using the toilet. It does cut down on the head room, my wife can stand up, but I can not do so without bending my head to the side. I have not found this a problem. If I am in there, I am setting down. Keep the floor of the shower clean as well.
Removable floor over shower floor:
The factory left a fairly large piece of carpet over the installed carpet (to keep it clean, I assume) which I used to cover the new shower subfloor.
To keep the toilet from getting wet while showering, we use a second expandable curtain rod placed by the installed curtain rod across to the wall (front of the trailer). We purchase a new curtain & used the whole curtain to run half on the existing rod & then to continue on to the new rod. Works very well. To help keep any water from running around the toilet, we have a designated towel to roll up and place around the base of the pedestal. We also have two suction cups place one the fiberglass of the shower wall to pin the side of the shower curtain to with clothes pins, to help keep any water from getting behind it. Less area to have to wipe down after showering. We allow the shower floor to dry completely after toweling it off before placing the subfloor back over it.
JohnF, wrote, "Bottom 2" of door was soaked after towing in the rain for several hours". That doesn't seem good, I have never notices this happening in ours. Perhaps the rubber 'gasket' at the bottom of the door is not keeping water out, may need to check this out. Maybe add a second one. ??? We have had ours for 6 years, I see the 'gasket' is not in too good of shape now, but maybe we have not driven in hard enough rain to see this happening. This 'gasket' or whatever it's real title
would be was not 'glued' down very tight on ours from the get go. I had to re-glue it.
Oh, yes, I just remember something. On using ours one last time in 2005 (we got it late - early Sept), while camped at City of Rocks State Park, we found the fuse to be blown by the battery
. After mentioning this to the camp host, he suggested we had a short perhaps were the power lines run into the trailer from the battery. Sure enough, the metal clamp used to secure the power cord bundle to the body of the fiberglass where it run through this fiberglass into the 'closet' in front of the trailer had one wire clamped in it's 'teeth' and had cut to the wire, thus shorting out the fuse.
It was an easy fix, I just had to tape the wire well & add silicone to help keep out moisture. I was thankful I mentioned not having power from the battery. Not sure if I would have thought to look there or not. It has now been 6 years and no more trouble from it.
As for "door lock was actually in the locked position," I was able to do the same thing in 2007 while camping above Colorado Springs, CO. Could open the door in the morning, but my son & his family were near by. I was able to call him using FRS (walkie talkies), he came over & I gave him the key through a window. Otherwise, I'd have had to go out the escape
hatch, then off the roof. Not happened again.
As for, "Can't believe the RV industry can't figure out a better fresh water tank inlet cover in the past 20+ years. Trying to hold a large, heavy 5 gallon water jug to refill the tank while keeping the little cover flap open is an exercise in frustration." I believe the RV industry has a better inlet cover (not sure if they will work on the Scamp's layout for the bed & water tank. If yours has the same one as ours:
That style is maybe 30 or 40 yrs. old. Most of the RVs have locking covers for the fresh water, which are recessed into the body of the trailer or RV. Casitas have this style. The only one I could find a photo of was smaller than I was remembering, but it seems it would be much better. http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...key-lock/21924
The other TT & C-class MH we had had some like these. Not sure if this is what Casita
uses or not. The larger sized deal I was thinking of was for the electrical
shore power hose opening, also lockable. http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...ble-hatch/1856
I believe it is the size of the opening & were the bed is (as I mentioned before), not the knowing about these other fill options. Cut-Out Dimensions: 4 3/8"H x 3 1/8"W with Outside Dimensions: 6 1/4"H x 5"W
But it would be nice to have these instead of the other one.
We carry 26 gals of fresh water & use this system to transfer it: http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fu...9.cfm#25106709
These links are to posts of ways of filling the tank:
does use one like the one at Camping World. Which has been around for at least since 1983, the year of our first TT.
Transfer Water at Colorado Nat'l Mon't 2010.
For easy leveling, we use the 'lego-like' blocks, something like these:
But at Wal-Mart.
AW's 'Shot Gun' of Reminisces
~ Sites & Sights West of Mississippi River basically. None in Wisconsin, but some up by Duluth & up to Thunder Bay.
2005 16' Scamp Molded Fiberglass Travel Trailer
Side Dinette, Front Shower & Head
2009 White Ford F-150 Reg. Cab
Long Bed with A.R.E. Molded Fiberglass Topper
At City of Rocks State Park
At Silver Campground - Lincoln Nat'l Forest Near Cloudcroft, NM
At the Tunnel Vista leaving Lincoln Nat'l Forest area going to Alamogordo