New member with a 16' scamp project - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-07-2014, 09:34 PM   #15
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Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 77 Scamp 13
Michigan
Posts: 3,081
Welcome looks like a great find.

Noticed that the trailer does not seem to be sitting low on the tires, considering the age this may well mean the axle was replaced at some point. Bonus if it was.

Some scrubbing with LA Totally Awesome, new seam tape or caulk at the seams, a little shine and people will think it's a new trailer.

Think the support for your upper cabinet was homemade, stock would be double bars of twisted metal, somewhat like a metal porch rail between the counter and the upper cabinets.

One nice thing is the Scamp store stills sells most parts and hardware for their older trailers. Curtain rod brackets to seat cushions they still sell most of the parts.
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Old 04-08-2014, 04:46 AM   #16
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Name: Scott
Trailer: Scamp 16'
New Hampshire
Posts: 18
well yesterday we scrubbed out the interior walls and boy they came out very nice, and yes the upper cabinet support is homemade and there was a crack in the roof because someone removed the stock brace, so we also repaired that yesterday also, came out great you could never tell its was cracked,(fiberglass is great stuff to work with) I should have taken a picture of that.. I think ill replace it with a factory support, did they take 2 one per side?

I think its still the stock axle because its a 2000lb unit, im putting a 3500lb axle in it, I don't want to chance a failure

Now the factory seem tape, how does it hold up? meaning is it super sticky. is one roll enough for a 16' trailer? I really don't want to caulk the seems unless I was to paint the interior walls

We bought 4" foam sheets and fabric and we are going to make our own cushions,,

All in all I very pleased with it, its amazing being 35 years old and the original plywood floor is still in great shape

now the snap caps and sealing washers should I buy them from scamp or get them online from a vender?
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Old 04-08-2014, 09:58 AM   #17
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Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 77 Scamp 13
Michigan
Posts: 3,081
Only the one brace as far as I know, at the dinette end. But don't know for sure. Look for rivet holes at the end of the cabinets. That is where it attaches. Sides of lower cabinet to bottom of upper.

IMO it would be easier to just order the snap cap kit from Scamp for a 16 ft. Tip: Call and order over the phone, ask if they will ship US Postal. Shipping through the web site store with FedEx or UPS is super high. Also get some butyl tape, I think a tiny bit of that under the snap cap washer helps it seal.

The seam tape from scamp is "ok" but I had to use 3M spray adhesive in order for it to stick. That worked and was pretty easy. Just spray a quick line of adhesive along the seam, let it tack for a few minutes and put tape on over the adhesive. I found that going around window seams the curve did not work out so well. Stress of curving the tape made it keep coming off. Full job I think you will want two rolls, but I think all of the walls can be done with one. Windows will put you into the second roll.

Axle does not so much fail as it does just slowly allows the trailer to sit lower and lower. Like worn out leaf springs. Rubber inside axle provides torsion to the arm with the wheel on it. Rubber wears out over time and the trailer just rides lower. Yours does NOT appear to be riding low, maybe it was stored on stands as a hunting camp taking the weight off of the rubber?

Having replaced mine I suggest getting the 5 on 4 bolt pattern and doing an adapter bracket for the spare. Allows for larger tires (run cooler) and 5 on 4 hubs with brakes are common the 4 bolt brake parts are harder to find in stock. I went with 4 bolt to avoid replacing wheels but would not if I had to do it again.

I have some before and after pictures someplace. Wheel well came across the rim between spindle and rubber of tire with old axle. New axle (2200 lb for a 13 ft.) and the wheel wells sits right where yours does, about middle of the rubber above the rim. And the original down angle was used to determine height new axle should provide.

Keep the pictures coming, we all love to see people bring these old trailers back with some love and sweat.
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Old 04-08-2014, 08:14 PM   #18
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Name: Scott
Trailer: Scamp 16'
New Hampshire
Posts: 18
im looking to place order with scamp, and 1 item I want is a front gravel shield but the sizes they offer are 18 1/2 x 37 and 20 x 44 my window measures 17 1/2 x 43 1/4.
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Old 04-08-2014, 08:41 PM   #19
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Name: will
Trailer: 16' Scamp
Wyoming
Posts: 63
Looks a lot like the '79 16 foot scamp we just got!

I measured all the seams inside and came up with 87 feet for the seam tape.
Ours has a 2400 pound Dura Flex axle. Petrified from age, no flex left at all. Couldn't find any current info on the web.

Visited with a very helpful lady at Dexter Axle and she told me that they can custom rate the #10 (3500#) torflex axle to whatever weight you need.
Have fun! We are!

Will
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Old 04-11-2014, 02:16 PM   #20
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Name: Scott
Trailer: Scamp 16'
New Hampshire
Posts: 18
Wicked weather today,, washed down the scamp with my magic cleaner,, industrial toilet bowl cleaner mixed 50/50 with hydrogen peroxide. boy it does wonders..
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Old 04-11-2014, 03:31 PM   #21
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Trailer: 2013 Lil Snoozy #161 (SOLD)/2010 Tacoma
NE Oklahoma
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WOW, it ate the windows out.........LOL
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Old 04-11-2014, 09:38 PM   #22
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Name: Scott
Trailer: Scamp 16'
New Hampshire
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What do you mean ate my windows? I removed them to keep the weight down because im going to tow it with a Subaru Baja LOL
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Old 04-12-2014, 06:40 AM   #23
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I don't understand why you took the windows out to save weight? Whether they are in the trailer or in the tow vehicle, they still need to be transported. Plus you are going to ripe the paper apart you use to cover the window holes in a mile or two so it will be wide open to the elements as you transport. Windows do not weight that much!

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What do you mean ate my windows? I removed them to keep the weight down because im going to tow it with a Subaru Baja LOL
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Old 04-12-2014, 07:10 PM   #24
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Name: Russ & Vivian
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Did he just say that.lol
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Old 04-12-2014, 08:34 PM   #25
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Oregon
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OMG. I think we're all getting jerked around! I'm betting Scott is going to use butyl and seal up the great jalousie windows!
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Old 04-12-2014, 08:46 PM   #26
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Name: Glenn ( second 'n' is silent )
Trailer: 2009 Escape 17B '08 RAV4 SPORT V6
British Columbia
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If dalousy windows are so great, why have trailer manufacturers abandoned them?
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Old 04-12-2014, 08:51 PM   #27
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Because lots of folks think radius slider windows are "modern" ? Or, maybe a jalousies are more expensive to manufactuer? Who knows the reasoning behind a manufacturer. All I know is where I live where it rains (a LOT) and I can't leave my radius corner windows open without building a dam (or gutter) above. But, folks with Jalousies don't have that problem!
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Old 04-12-2014, 09:39 PM   #28
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Might it be that they don't seal tight against the cold drafts?
I've seen mention of a double pane dalousy window.
Or maybe people don't like to feel like they are behind bars?
I'm just asking, since I've never had them.
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