new to fg and glamping! - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-28-2017, 09:39 PM   #1
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Name: linsey
Trailer: Bigfoot
British Columbia
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new to fg and glamping!

Hello all,

I just bough a 83 17b bigfoot for my family of 4. This is our first ever Trailer and I have no idea what I'm doing. I will need to winterize soon as we live in northern BC, Canada and I have no clue. Also looking at my roof, I think there are some depressions that may not have been molded but rather a sag over the years. the trailer has been sorely neglected the last 5 or so yeas and my goal is to restore this gem of a trailer. Because I'm new to this, not only fiberglass but also travel trailers, I am not totally sure if I bought a lemon or not. Any suggestions or help are very welcome! There is a small sag in the ceiling (in picture) but other than a bit of water damage under a window and vent everything seems to work. furnace, fridge, pump...ect. going out on a first trip may change the status but in the carport it all seems operational.
I believe everything is original except the toilet (new 5 years ago) and awning (also 5 years old)

excited to be apart of the fiberglass club and looking forward to working on
our new big foot!

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Old 08-29-2017, 02:44 AM   #2
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Trailer: Casita SD17 2006
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Welcome to FGRV Linsey. Others with BFs will be along soon. Just wanted to say you're ahead of the game as you have a great covered parking area .
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Old 08-29-2017, 06:05 AM   #3
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Welcome
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Old 08-29-2017, 06:18 AM   #4
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Name: Kevin
Trailer: 28' Bigfoot Silver Cloud
Oak Park, IL
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Looks good from the pictures! It seems to me that older trailers often have small dips in the roof after years of use. Nothing looks bad to me. Good luck and welcome!
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Old 08-29-2017, 09:25 AM   #5
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Name: linsey
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Thank you!
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Old 08-29-2017, 09:27 AM   #6
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Name: linsey
Trailer: Bigfoot
British Columbia
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I have a question regarding the windows. The rubber gasket on the outside lining the glass is warping and pulling away. Is that something I can replace? Or do I need to get all new windows?
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Old 08-29-2017, 09:32 AM   #7
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Name: linsey
Trailer: Bigfoot
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I was planning on pulling the windows and butyl taping. Then sealing with 3m mairine 5200. But that would be all for not if the windows rubber is no good. Any thoughts?

Ill try to up load some pictures
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Old 08-29-2017, 09:34 AM   #8
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Name: linsey
Trailer: Bigfoot
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Thanks Dave! ��
I kicked out one if our trucks to park the bf there. We have a portable shelter on the way. It was easier to cover the truck with it then find a portable shelter to fit the bf.
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Old 08-29-2017, 10:39 AM   #9
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Name: K C
Trailer: 1980 18' Sunrader Motorhome and 1971 Trailswest Campster
Washington
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The replacement rubber is a standard type of item. Check around with your local auto window glass outfits and get an estimate for them to pull the windows out and replace the gasket. If you are going to DIY the job you will need a small tool set to help get the rod into the rubber. Youtube has videos showing how it is done that will help your understanding of the process so you can make the decision of DIY versus taking it to a shop.
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Old 08-29-2017, 10:45 AM   #10
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Name: linsey
Trailer: Bigfoot
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Thank you! Ill look into that!
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Old 08-29-2017, 11:45 AM   #11
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Trailer: In the market
Florida
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No don't use 5200

"Iwas planning on pulling the windows and butyl taping. Then sealing with 3m mairine 5200. But that would be all for not if the windows rubber is no good. Any thoughts? "


Don't use 5200. It's designed to permanently attach fixtures. If the window needs replacing someday you'll never get it out without ruining the Fiberglas. I sold this stuff for years at a marine store. It's nasty stuff. 3 M makes better caulk for windows. Personally I would stick with butyl.
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Old 08-29-2017, 03:19 PM   #12
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Name: Kathleen
Trailer: Amerigo FG-16 1973 "Peanut"
Washington
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Butyl "tape" is not exactly tape. It is tape "shaped;" it is sold in rolls, comes in gray, white & black (depending on the store), is a very good sealant for things you may have to move or remove later, you can screw through it and it seals the screws, then, too. I recommend if screwing into wood after the metal window rims and the fiberglass, as you will likely find you are, that you first thread the screws through beeswax--good beeswax can be found cheaply in a simple replacement wax toilet ring. It helps seal the micropores in the wood to prevent any mosture that gets past the butyl tape from going deeper. There are other products if you're screwing into metal.


Look up butyl tape in the Search engine above--type it in the bottom query space, though, that works a lot better than the top space. Also see about watching some YouTube vids on the topic. You should apply it at one type of temp and tighten the screws slowly...eventually you'll snug it up (or snug it down) until some of the "tape" oozes out the edges. Then you carefully scrape that back a bit and you're done. We used a popsicle stick to scrape it because it make a nice little radius along the window trim edge. I "think" you apply it cold and let it warm up. Some people even put it in the fridge for a while before applying if it's warm outside.


Paul wasn't very particular about application temps and did have to undo things and redo some of the butyl tape later around the belly band trim. A few spots didn't quite fill the gaps. He fixed it, though.

Cute trailer! Crossing my fingers for you that it goes well and quickly.


BEST
Kai
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Old 08-29-2017, 05:14 PM   #13
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Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 77 Scamp 13
Michigan
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The main reason I would actually worry about a dip is if something had been removed that might have been providing support or something was added that might have increased load.


The cabinets look stock in the picture and unless someone who has a BF or knows them says you are missing a support I would put that minor roof deflection in the "don't worry be happy" category.


People sometimes have removed either the upper cabinet brace or closet from scamps and since those help brace the roof the lack causes sag or add roof AC to a camper that was not braced for it.


I suppose if that roof vent was added that could have contributed to the roof surface shifting but unless water collects in low spot and leaks or it's not protected from snow load I think you are good.


this winterization list might be useful. Step By Step RV Winterizing Checklist - RV Information (RV Maintenance)


Don't forget RV batteries, they need to be kept charged or even better in out of the weather so they don't freeze.
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Old 08-29-2017, 05:16 PM   #14
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Sometimes heat from a blow dryer can help rubber or plastic return to original shape.
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