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Old 08-28-2017, 09:39 PM   #1
Junior Member
 
Name: linsey
Trailer: Bigfoot
British Columbia
Posts: 18
new to fg and glamping!

Hello all,

I just bough a 83 17b bigfoot for my family of 4. This is our first ever Trailer and I have no idea what I'm doing. I will need to winterize soon as we live in northern BC, Canada and I have no clue. Also looking at my roof, I think there are some depressions that may not have been molded but rather a sag over the years. the trailer has been sorely neglected the last 5 or so yeas and my goal is to restore this gem of a trailer. Because I'm new to this, not only fiberglass but also travel trailers, I am not totally sure if I bought a lemon or not. Any suggestions or help are very welcome! There is a small sag in the ceiling (in picture) but other than a bit of water damage under a window and vent everything seems to work. furnace, fridge, pump...ect. going out on a first trip may change the status but in the carport it all seems operational.
I believe everything is original except the toilet (new 5 years ago) and awning (also 5 years old)

excited to be apart of the fiberglass club and looking forward to working on
our new big foot!

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Old 08-29-2017, 02:44 AM   #2
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Name: Dave
Trailer: Casita SD17 2006 "Missing Link"
California
Posts: 3,738
Welcome to FGRV Linsey. Others with BFs will be along soon. Just wanted to say you're ahead of the game as you have a great covered parking area .
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Old 08-29-2017, 06:05 AM   #3
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Name: Jack
Trailer: Casita Liberty
Virginia
Posts: 651
Welcome
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Old 08-29-2017, 06:18 AM   #4
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Trailer: U-Haul 16 ft Vacationer
Posts: 1,549
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Looks good from the pictures! It seems to me that older trailers often have small dips in the roof after years of use. Nothing looks bad to me. Good luck and welcome!
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Old 08-29-2017, 09:25 AM   #5
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Name: linsey
Trailer: Bigfoot
British Columbia
Posts: 18
Thank you!
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Old 08-29-2017, 09:27 AM   #6
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Name: linsey
Trailer: Bigfoot
British Columbia
Posts: 18
I have a question regarding the windows. The rubber gasket on the outside lining the glass is warping and pulling away. Is that something I can replace? Or do I need to get all new windows?
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Old 08-29-2017, 09:32 AM   #7
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Name: linsey
Trailer: Bigfoot
British Columbia
Posts: 18
I was planning on pulling the windows and butyl taping. Then sealing with 3m mairine 5200. But that would be all for not if the windows rubber is no good. Any thoughts?

Ill try to up load some pictures
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Old 08-29-2017, 09:34 AM   #8
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Name: linsey
Trailer: Bigfoot
British Columbia
Posts: 18
Thanks Dave! ��
I kicked out one if our trucks to park the bf there. We have a portable shelter on the way. It was easier to cover the truck with it then find a portable shelter to fit the bf.
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Old 08-29-2017, 10:39 AM   #9
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Name: Kelly
Trailer: Trails West
Oregon
Posts: 3,046
The replacement rubber is a standard type of item. Check around with your local auto window glass outfits and get an estimate for them to pull the windows out and replace the gasket. If you are going to DIY the job you will need a small tool set to help get the rod into the rubber. Youtube has videos showing how it is done that will help your understanding of the process so you can make the decision of DIY versus taking it to a shop.
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Old 08-29-2017, 10:45 AM   #10
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Name: linsey
Trailer: Bigfoot
British Columbia
Posts: 18
Thank you! Ill look into that!
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Old 08-29-2017, 11:45 AM   #11
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Name: Gene
Trailer: 2022 Spirit Deluxe
Florida
Posts: 52
No don't use 5200

"Iwas planning on pulling the windows and butyl taping. Then sealing with 3m mairine 5200. But that would be all for not if the windows rubber is no good. Any thoughts? "


Don't use 5200. It's designed to permanently attach fixtures. If the window needs replacing someday you'll never get it out without ruining the Fiberglas. I sold this stuff for years at a marine store. It's nasty stuff. 3 M makes better caulk for windows. Personally I would stick with butyl.
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Old 08-29-2017, 03:19 PM   #12
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Name: Kathleen (Kai: ai as in wait)
Trailer: Amerigo FG-16 1973 "Peanut"
Greater Seattle Metropolitan Area, Washington
Posts: 2,566
Registry
Butyl "tape" is not exactly tape. It is tape "shaped;" it is sold in rolls, comes in gray, white & black (depending on the store), is a very good sealant for things you may have to move or remove later, you can screw through it and it seals the screws, then, too. I recommend if screwing into wood after the metal window rims and the fiberglass, as you will likely find you are, that you first thread the screws through beeswax--good beeswax can be found cheaply in a simple replacement wax toilet ring. It helps seal the micropores in the wood to prevent any mosture that gets past the butyl tape from going deeper. There are other products if you're screwing into metal.


Look up butyl tape in the Search engine above--type it in the bottom query space, though, that works a lot better than the top space. Also see about watching some YouTube vids on the topic. You should apply it at one type of temp and tighten the screws slowly...eventually you'll snug it up (or snug it down) until some of the "tape" oozes out the edges. Then you carefully scrape that back a bit and you're done. We used a popsicle stick to scrape it because it make a nice little radius along the window trim edge. I "think" you apply it cold and let it warm up. Some people even put it in the fridge for a while before applying if it's warm outside.


Paul wasn't very particular about application temps and did have to undo things and redo some of the butyl tape later around the belly band trim. A few spots didn't quite fill the gaps. He fixed it, though.

Cute trailer! Crossing my fingers for you that it goes well and quickly.


BEST
Kai
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Old 08-29-2017, 05:14 PM   #13
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Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 2010 Scamp 16
Michigan
Posts: 3,744
The main reason I would actually worry about a dip is if something had been removed that might have been providing support or something was added that might have increased load.


The cabinets look stock in the picture and unless someone who has a BF or knows them says you are missing a support I would put that minor roof deflection in the "don't worry be happy" category.


People sometimes have removed either the upper cabinet brace or closet from scamps and since those help brace the roof the lack causes sag or add roof AC to a camper that was not braced for it.


I suppose if that roof vent was added that could have contributed to the roof surface shifting but unless water collects in low spot and leaks or it's not protected from snow load I think you are good.


this winterization list might be useful. Step By Step RV Winterizing Checklist - RV Information (RV Maintenance)


Don't forget RV batteries, they need to be kept charged or even better in out of the weather so they don't freeze.
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Old 08-29-2017, 05:16 PM   #14
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Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 2010 Scamp 16
Michigan
Posts: 3,744
Sometimes heat from a blow dryer can help rubber or plastic return to original shape.
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Old 08-29-2017, 06:00 PM   #15
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Name: linsey
Trailer: Bigfoot
British Columbia
Posts: 18
You guys are awesome! Thank you so much! I believe everything inside is indeed original. So I'll stop panicking!

Gene, what about the 3m 4200? I have done a bunch of reading (this site mainly) about caulking after the butyl tape.
I know silicone is a no go on fg. I did buy some butyl tape and 3m 4200 to do a test run on my truck canopy. I had a few leaking windows and it seems to have done the trick.

Kai, that beeswax tip is fantastic! And thank you for the butyl temperature tip.

Roger, thanks for the check list! And battery tip! And I'll try that heat gun. Though I think it may have shrunk beyond return.
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Old 08-29-2017, 07:35 PM   #16
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Name: Dave
Trailer: Casita SD17 2006 "Missing Link"
California
Posts: 3,738
Linsey, proper bedding installation of the windows with the butyl is all you really need. There are some here that have used some kind of sealant after using the butyl but I think it was for looks only. Maybe they'll chime in .
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Old 08-29-2017, 08:09 PM   #17
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Name: linsey
Trailer: Bigfoot
British Columbia
Posts: 18
Thank you Dave
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Old 08-30-2017, 04:58 AM   #18
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Name: Gene
Trailer: 2022 Spirit Deluxe
Florida
Posts: 52
4200

4200 is half the strength of 5200 and allows you to remove what you're trying to seal. Personally I would stick with just butyl. I like the beeswax fix too. Very clever.
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