Our '76 Trillium finally done! - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-03-2012, 07:44 AM   #29
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Name: Bob Ruggles
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Our Egg Camper has an electric only fridge. I think Norcold but I'm in the house and the fridge is in the trailer so I didn't check. It's smallish, maybe 3 cu ft? It's 12 volt. It's also a compressor fridge so doesn't need to be level. After using it for well over a year, we're very satisfied with it. No idea of the price.
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Old 08-03-2012, 07:49 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by rgrugg View Post
Our Egg Camper has an electric only fridge. I think Norcold but I'm in the house and the fridge is in the trailer so I didn't check. It's smallish, maybe 3 cu ft? It's 12 volt. It's also a compressor fridge so doesn't need to be level. After using it for well over a year, we're very satisfied with it. No idea of the price.
This was the route were thinking of going but perhaps with an electric rather than a 12 volt. We haven't replaced the marine battery on ours (it didn't come with one when we bought it last year) as only the fridge and two lights use it. On our six week trip we never had need of the battery so don't know that it's worth the cost for us. Naturally, that means we can't run a fridge on battery power so use an ice chest when en route.
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Old 08-03-2012, 07:55 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by Roy in TO View Post
Bonnie,
These fridges work best on propane, take longer to cool than regular fridges and will only cool to a gradient of the outside temperature. You can get them rebuilt in Ontario and by modifying the venting you can improve their efficiency.
Heading off for weekend but would appreciate hearing more about modifying the venting. I read that someone had installed a small fan behind their fridge to increase cooling. Ours works but, as you noted, takes a long time to cool. The freezer does freeze. Will see if I can find something that explains it in simplistic terms...about a grade 6 level would be good There is so much to learn...not enough hours in the day...
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Old 08-03-2012, 08:05 AM   #32
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Trailer: 1972 boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
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Please tell me more about I'm proving the cooling by modifying the venting
Here is a start:
Improving fridge venting
fan for fridge?

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Naturally, that means we can't run a fridge on battery power so use an ice chest when en route.
A fridge draws too much power to run off a battery for very long, it will kill your battery. The 12V is essentially meant to use power from your tow vehicle while towing. You may appreciate having a battery for lighting and other things as you continue on. You have a much better choice of locations / sites to camp at with out connecting to 120V. A battery can run the fans to help keep your fridge cool, both inside and out.
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Old 08-03-2012, 08:19 AM   #33
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Name: Bob Ruggles
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More on our compressor fridge. Since it's a compressor it does NOT have a heating element as do almost all 12v rv fridges. I'm told at the Egg Camper factory that it will run up to 3 days on battery. We have two batteries. When you're plugged into electric, the fridge still runs. I like not having to be so fussy about levelling. (Spell check says I spelled levelling wrong but I'm an old fart and was taught about doubling letters. NOT going to change for something in my computer.)
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Old 08-16-2012, 08:38 AM   #34
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Nice job on your redo!! Ive been trying to get a sample of lining from Trillium RV for a month now is this where you purchased yours If not who did you make the purchase from?
If your purchase was from Trillium What do you think of the foam liner??
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Old 08-16-2012, 09:21 AM   #35
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Name: chris
Trailer: 1976 13' trillium
British Columbia
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I didn't get any new foam liner. We just washed and painted ours. I did get all new T-molding. I dealt with Tom from trillium rv and found him very good to deal with. Service definitely can be slow but you have to keep in mind that sending stuff to you and I is more of a service than a money maker for him. I was just thankful that he was willing to send me all the stuff I asked for. I got all the following from him:
all decals (rock guard, orange stripe, chrome door,mylars)
logo mudflaps
logo spare tire cover
T-molding

I was dealing with him more in the winter which was most likely slow time. I know they shut down recently for two weeks which might cause the delay or they are just crazy busy. Hope you hear from them soon.
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Old 08-16-2012, 12:39 PM   #36
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Chris, EXCELLENT job!!! I'm going to paint mine next summer ('77 13' Tril).
You've done a lot more work -mainly the windows- than I'm willing to do. Props!

I really like how good your door fits. Was that problem? Mine is down a little and pokes out on the bottom and it really bugs me!

Interior is great looking, too.

Well done ;-)
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Old 08-16-2012, 01:11 PM   #37
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Thanks, but it must be the angle the photo was taken because my door is the biggest problem. Same as what everyone else has, which is a misalignment at bottom left. It was a poor design and from what I understand it is very difficult to fix. I had to use extra weatherstripping at the bottom to try and seal it up when it is closed. Good luck with your painting next year. Remember, good results will come from the amount of effort you are willing to put into the preparation.
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Old 08-16-2012, 01:30 PM   #38
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Well your door looks way better than mine (so, live with it -LOL!)

I used to paint show cars for a living until the chemicals started messing with me. Now, I just paint for me.
When I was washing it this past weekend is when I really started looking for cracks. Now, I wish I hadn't!
We're going to enjoy it over the winter/spring. Louisiana winter/spring is better than summer (no bugs/snakes). Then get on it when the heat hits.

Enjoy yours in the great white north!
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Old 08-16-2012, 02:44 PM   #39
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Trailer: 1976 13' trillium
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bunk bed rail

George,

Here are some photos of what I did. The L shape was added to the original posts by welding on some new tubing. The hardware was purchased at home depot in the electrical/plumbing aisle and I don't even know what they are used for. I had to hacksaw a small threaded piece from the stopper that I used on the posts. Hope this helps. The plastic end caps help make sure it doesn't pop up and off but they are loose enough that a good pull up by me will pop them off when I'm taking the bed down. Works great so far.
Again, if you wanted to store the rail then I'm sure you could build a sleeve behind the backrest as there is quite a bit of space between that and the wall when the couch is in place. Hope this helps

Chris
Attached Thumbnails
DSCN2832.jpg   DSCN2833.jpg  

DSCN2834.jpg   DSC02817.jpg  

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Old 08-16-2012, 03:26 PM   #40
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Name: George
Trailer: 85 Uhaul CT 13
North Carolina
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Thanks Chris,

I've already replaced my bunk supports with new tubing and if I can locate the pieces I sawed off I'm good to go, if not it's back to HD and purchase more. Great idea on the railing!

George
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