Trillium Retired - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-09-2013, 10:13 PM   #15
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Name: Randy
Trailer: 1980Trillium 1300
Ontario
Posts: 355
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Originally Posted by Wanderer View Post
I do not know how to post images, Donna! I do not think images of my new coupler are particularly exciting, either. Presently, my new coupler jack ends in simply the jack tube end, and I'd like to modify it by adding a jockey wheel so I can remove the ugly old side mounted jack and steel jockey wheel, but I've not seen any Trilliums with a good fat jockey wheel. We push our Trillium around in the courtyard to park it where it is convenient, and that means rotating it 180 degrees to re-couple it to the truck. Maybe I'll have to design a jockey wheel fitting. Maybe I'll have to start a new thread titled "Jockey Wheels" and gt ideas from other members.
...."..to design a spare wheel carrier under the front frame easier. Should mention that our trailer has a high lift axle beam,...". Here are my photos of Trillium:...Front jack with lock-able wheel and diy grease fitting, 1 front handle and 2 corner front handles for tight moving manually. Spare wheel under-neath rear frame with it's housing...Share with you some of the options...
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Old 08-09-2013, 10:31 PM   #16
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Name: Randy
Trailer: 1980Trillium 1300
Ontario
Posts: 355
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Carol, thanks for your reply. I suspected I'd not need the boost function with the Trillium and the Tacoma-probably not with the Tacoma until I changed up to a new Airstream Bambi!( And that will not be happening unless I win a Lotto!) Yes, I realize that one has to set up the controller sensitivity on the road, I was more concerned about this boost feature.The brakes on the Trillium are 10" diameter, The Tacoma is good for 6400 lbs, of towed trailer/load, so I have to keep reminding it that it has a little trailer on behind!
You are worried too much about trailer brake, Buddy. I am not sure if you have Trillium 1300. Mine is Trillium 1300, axle rated at 3500lbs. I also install ebrake of 10 inches. My towing vehicle is also a ..Toyota, but not a Tacoma pick-up, but a little wagon Matrix 1.8liter, 4 cylinder engine. I install a cheap brake controller under the dash of T.V. It pulls like a champ, not mention ab all of my toys inside the Trillium, including 4 bicycles, sometimes 5 of them...Not mention about cargo on the floor of Trillium...If you track down my posts of "exterior paint job" or" show your rig" in this forum, just look at my water-resistant laminate floor with all kinds of brackets and wire mess, you would know what I meant.....Just a share...
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Old 08-09-2013, 11:07 PM   #17
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Name: Kenneth
Trailer: Casita 17 Freedom DeLuxe
British Columbia
Posts: 78
Thank you for your ideas and pix. I'm going to go with the front mount for the spare. I'll visit a wrecker and buy a pick up spare winch mount, and weld it to a bracket in front, which will let me carry the spare under the front frame and assure me that the Trillium will not pull off the hitch from too much weight in the rear. I adn=mire your corner handles- every trailer we saw in Europe had these as standard. With handles like yours and a dolly wheel, the trailers were easily managed in the small European sites.
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Old 08-09-2013, 11:36 PM   #18
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Name: J
Trailer: Escape 19
Delaware
Posts: 29
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Originally Posted by Wanderer View Post
Carol, thanks for your reply. I suspected I'd not need the boost function with the Trillium and the Tacoma-probably not with the Tacoma until I changed up to a new Airstream Bambi!( And that will not be happening unless I win a Lotto!) Yes, I realize that one has to set up the controller sensitivity on the road, I was more concerned about this boost feature.The brakes on the Trillium are 10" diameter, The Tacoma is good for 6400 lbs, of towed trailer/load, so I have to keep reminding it that it has a little trailer on behind!
Hey,

Even If you win the lottery rethink the bambi I was heading in that direction with my Tacoma but the weight and lack of getting things the way I want with out paying through the nose and a few other orifices I passed. I also went out to the factory in Ohio I was not impressed with the under the skin / frame work. I spent 23 years working on aircraft they tout it as built in the same sense umm NO WAY. Myself and another guy who was also Air Craft structural / air frame mechanic were laughing to each other looking at their riveting and stringer / frame cut placement etc etc . Not a one I looked at would have passed an inspection unless the Quality Assurance guy was blind. I could give you the technical aspects of it but that is it in a nutshell. They have a nice product with a very long life span but the upkeep and corrosion issues they have since they do not do a coating system which they could since they order directly from Alcoa is odd but oh well . I did like the idea and the lay out and having the ability to repair it on my own but for the price and weight I said no. I went with an Escape 19 used I bought from a member here, though I was going to order one with all the things I wanted the way I wanted and pay less even for brand new. Trust me fiberglass is much easier to work with and learn for the layman then metal working not to mention the tools needed for metal work are expensive. Just my opinion.

Cypher
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Old 08-10-2013, 07:16 AM   #19
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Name: Ted
Trailer: (Dark side)Crossroads Now
Glade Valley, North Carolina
Posts: 969
Kenneth welcome to the forum
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Old 08-10-2013, 10:15 AM   #20
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Name: Kenneth
Trailer: Casita 17 Freedom DeLuxe
British Columbia
Posts: 78
Thank you, papa-t, for your welcome; and thank you, Cypherian, for your eye-opener re the Bambi (all Airstreams?) I guess it is to be expected that any company will cut corners to stay in the market. It is an incredibly tight market, and I do not know how the present slab of beef trailers can be produced for the ridiculously low prices offered today, be they "light", "ultra-light" or "regular." And they are manufactured in North America. Unlike the sail boat industry, trailers will never be produced cheaper in Asia! Pity that Airstream are what they are under the skin. What about ten to twenty year old small Airstreams- was there a time when they were better built (ignoring the plywood floors which have always rotted?) Are the old Avions any better? We live about 20 miles from the Escape factory here in the Fraser Valley of BC, and I have looked at and into each of the present offerings, with the exception of their new and largest model. Escape built me the doors for the oak cabinets I fitted into my Trillium, and sold me some other equipment. Really nice people up there in Chilliwack.
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Old 10-03-2013, 09:38 PM   #21
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Name: Kenneth
Trailer: Casita 17 Freedom DeLuxe
British Columbia
Posts: 78
An end of summer comment: Took the Trillium to Washington and Oregon for a about weeks, and all the new installs worked perfectly, especially including the new electric brake system. Had a great time, despite the rain, and came back with a new, enduring thought for our next trailer- a Casita 17, Spirit or Freedom, it doesn't matter which. Totally forgotten my Bambi dreams.
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Old 10-11-2013, 11:45 AM   #22
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Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1977, 1978 (2), 1300 - 1977, 1973, and a 1972
Alberta
Posts: 5,314
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Kenneth,

Pictures would rock!
Forums 101 - posting, accounts, basics

Maybe even add your trailer to the Trillium serial number thread.
Serial numbers on a Trillium

My P3 controller came with boost enabled. I found it annoying. The trailer would grab way too hard. Way better once I turned it off.
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Old 10-11-2013, 08:01 PM   #23
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Name: Kenneth
Trailer: Casita 17 Freedom DeLuxe
British Columbia
Posts: 78
Think I must have had a memory lapse when I told you about my P3! In fact, it is a P2, also with boost and digital read out. I wiped the boost right from day 1, and have never felt I have needed it. Think I also got careless last post! Age related careless editing once again, and me a retired English teacher!! we didn't take the Trillium for "a about weeks", we took it down there for about TWO weeks. I'll post some pics of our trailer later in the fall, when I have discovered how to do that.
Today I have just finished sealing with epoxy all the old rivet holes and the bottoms of the new pop rivets on the underside of the Fantastic Fan mounting flange, which the installer did not do when he put in the fan. I do not know how this fan was installed, but it is an awful mess up there on the roof. A blind mentally challenged child could have done a better job. I also killed the rust all along the top of the piano hinge on the new rock guard that was factory installed using cheap, poorly chromed steel piano hinge. So far, the new dinette windows are NOT leaking, so that is something they did correctly, I guess. The awning leaked at the pop rivets along the top edge, because they were installed without any sealant- they dripped rain out of the holes along the liner, where they let the drill go right through the roof and liner, instead of setting a depth limit (simple masking tape would have done it, or better, sensitive hands holding the drill to tell them when the drill had gone through the shell. Yes, it would have demanded more care and attention/time, but that is what we pay for and expect. Ahhhhhh!
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