U Haul CT 13 in Northwest Ga - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 12-31-2012, 05:04 AM   #15
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VT tire 3.jpg   VT tire 4.jpg  

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Old 12-31-2012, 07:26 AM   #16
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It looks like the wheel and the Hub would be the same ones from an MV trailer that is still on the road today in the U Haul system. It uses two axles but the same wheel and lug pattern. The two 13 inch wheels are very close to the same thing. One will fit over the studs of the other but it is not correct!it will bend studs and work loose. Looks like you got lucky to find someone that had the correct parts. I will try and look in our catalog to seeif I can find you any part numbers for the brake stuff.
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Old 12-31-2012, 07:35 AM   #17
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Yes we saw that. One of those kinds of trailers was parked right next to us while we were changing the hub. We have a surge break for that trailee on our camper. I got it on ebay.

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Old 12-31-2012, 01:11 PM   #18
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Welcome to Fiberglass, and the U-Hall world, I put eletric brakes on my VT, they work great.
You will love your trailer.
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Old 01-01-2013, 07:41 AM   #19
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Well I got it home last night. So far I'm missing the poles for the bunks and the pole for the back table. Other than that it seems all there. I just have to figure out the combination of the pillows and what type of pole I'm looking for for the table. I don't have small kids so the bunk beds are not a priority right now. But a table to eat off of kinda is.
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Old 01-01-2013, 08:05 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by Chris Jones View Post
Well I got it home last night. So far I'm missing the poles for the bunks and the pole for the back table. Other than that it seems all there. I just have to figure out the combination of the pillows and what type of pole I'm looking for for the table. I don't have small kids so the bunk beds are not a priority right now. But a table to eat off of kinda is.
Chris, the table pole is a standard RV pole about $6 at an RV dealer. The length is the same as the distance between the two rear seats. The bunk poles are just steel pipe.
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Old 01-01-2013, 11:59 AM   #21
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Chris, the table pole is a standard RV pole about $6 at an RV dealer. The length is the same as the distance between the two rear seats. The bunk poles are just steel pipe.
Thanks. I'm gonna hit Three Way in Kennesaw / Acworth and pick one up. Can someone post a detailed shot of how the bunk poles attach and the length. Now to hook up batterie and try out the heater and stove.
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Old 01-01-2013, 12:33 PM   #22
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Thanks. I'm gonna hit Three Way in Kennesaw / Acworth and pick one up. Can someone post a detailed shot of how the bunk poles attach and the length. Now to hook up batterie and try out the heater and stove.
Originally there were two U shaped brackets on the bottom of the top bunk. The pipe has a hole near the top and a small rod goes through the two holes in the U bracket to capture the top of the pipe. This allows the pipe to fold when the top bunk is folded down to make a couch back. The bottoms of the two pipes rest in chrome depressions in the top of the seat compartments. The pipe length is from the bottom of the bunk to these depressions.
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Old 01-01-2013, 06:42 PM   #23
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Good luck with the heater, it operates on 12 volts but seems to require a full charge to open the gas valve. Ours was so unreliable that I removed it, made the space into slide out storage, and use an electric heater when we have power available. Also the wall next to the heater, toward the trailer rear, got real hot.
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Old 01-01-2013, 07:04 PM   #24
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The group 29 deep cycle I have will not fit in the box. So I have to find a smaller one for it. Looks like everything is 12 volt and everything works. I haven't attempted to fire the heater yet. I have a full propane bottle but until I can check for leaks it's not getting turned on. Gonna get the smoke detector replaced as well as a carbon monoxide detected installed. I do like the idea of it being built in but a small 110 unit wouldn't be to bad either. I'm not sure I will be using it when I need much heat so it most likely will not see much use if it does work. Thanks for the heads up on how it works.
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Old 01-01-2013, 08:27 PM   #25
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The Uhaul repair manual is in the document center here and has a wiring diagram for the furnace. When the thermostat is turned up the fan will run first. The fan activates a sail switch, that causes the control circuit to open the gas valve. Typically insects will get into the exhaust pipe and build nests, they should be cleaned out. Tom had a good idea of using a sink drain screen to keep them out. I had pulled out the igniter electrodes, vacuumed out loose material in the chamber, and adjusted the spark gap. The furnace puts out a lot of heat fast but can be noisy. I have no regrets for junking our furnace, the storage space is much more valuable to us.
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Old 01-02-2013, 08:58 AM   #26
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So far my UHaul furnace works great, but if it died, I think I'd go with a catalytic LP gas furnace that takes no electricity, augmented with a little 120 volt cube heater for when AC power is available.
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Old 01-02-2013, 01:05 PM   #27
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Welcome Chris, I bought my uhaul ct-13 back in August. So I'm a relatively new owner too. I'm over in Athens. I look forward to hearing your input on part numbers. I had to do some work on leaks and the floor before mine was ready to take out. Electrical is probably the next thing I'll dig into.

I don't think my heater had been used in many years, I was able to get it working pretty easy, turn on the gas for a little bit and then it cranked right up. I used it in Nov at Hard Labor Creek with the family and it heated well.

Good luck with yours!
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Old 01-02-2013, 08:36 PM   #28
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I found that a standard size RV pole was too small for the hole recessed into the floor. It was sloppy loose. You may want to check it out on your camper for fit. Also, I had the bunk in mine and removed it because when the bunk is in the 'down' position, the couch is uncomfortably shallow to sit on. If you don't need the bunk to sleep kids in, you may be happier with just the couch up front.
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