I see you have mastered posting photos.
From our Private Messages, (PM's) I have cut out the details that I suspect that you would have wanted me to. Though, I would love it if you posted the picture of the data sheet that is on the inside of your closet. That way I can add your trailer to the ever growing list of Trillium
Serial numbers on a Trillium
This started out as a very well equipped Trillium
1300 in 1978, (based on the serial number). Even though the fabric looks more like a 1977.
kitchen window, (nice)
shelves above the windows
, and the lights
that mount to them.
doors in the gaucho
The roof air conditioner was not installed by the factory. It is kind of weird that the power cord for the A/C is on the outside. When Trillium put on a roof air conditioner, they added quite a bit of structure to the roof as well:
Mi (US) - 1979 - Trillium 1300 - ebay auction
Notice the interior supports, and the saddle that the A/C sits on. You may have noticed that the roof, on your trailer is starting to sag. The doors on the cabinets, above the sink are facing a little down. The roof of a Trillium is not designed to support A/C. This can be fixed with some supports. Does the A/C work?
No rock guard, (biggie)
Damaged tail lights
, (available online)
Missing T molding, (hard to find)
That crack above the door is more then cosmetic. Any idea what is causing it?
Is the floor flat? Can you lay a straight edge from in front of the fridge
, to the door? Does it sag towards the door?
What does the inside of the gaucho, and the dinette seats look like?
Is there a smell?
Does the fridge
, and / or furnace
, and / or converter work?
Like all Trilliums of this vintage, there are four major jobs that need to be done.
- The belly band will need attention. Note the silicone and it appears to be separating from the trailer.
- The windows
have a wood frame on the inside that is likely rotted.
- The door needs to be reinstalled.
- The axle
is likely worn, or aged out. It also does not have brakes
I would say you could probably get about $4000 for it. Depends on your local market though. Might get more, might get less. Prices are high this year.
Were it mine, I would either pull off the A/C or put the required supports in the kitchen. I assume that the pole in the kitchen is temporary.
I prefer the orignal, but Trillium / Outback will sell you a rock guard for a premium. Theirs is a fibreglass one piece thing:
Compact lightweight fiberglass Outback travel trailers Calgary | Trillium Trailers
The tail lights
are available, brand new, for a reasonable price from Paul Neumeister:
Fibreglass RV Parts, Repairs, and Service by Paul Neumeister
The screw covers around the windows
can be found at:
Hehr Screw Cover, Molding
T-molding is hard to find. Tom Young used to sell it, before he sold Trillium to Great West Vans. Maybe try them.
A quick repair on the door crack is probably all it needs.
Cushions can be made. They are not cheep. Jim Bennett made a pattern:
Fiberglass RV - Document Center - Trillium 1300 Cushion Template pattern
The gaucho is the couch that converts to bunk beds. I see no reason not to restore it to the possibility of becoming a bunk bed. The couch should have a back any way. The conversion process is beyond simple. Pull the back of the couch out from the bottom. Insert the two poles, that support the top bunk, in the shower curtain rod holders on the bottom of the bunk to the dimples in the fibreglass in the top of the couch seat. Done.
The bottom of the front window frame has pulled away. This could be from too much weight
in the upper bunk, or the wood of the frame is rotten. Probably a bit of both. Actually, that's pretty easy to fix. The screws from the window go into the wood frame that is on the inside of the trailer. Rot in this frame is a common problem. The fix is work, but not too hard:
My first Trillium window thread.
More difficult is the belly band, which also looks to be in rough shape:
My First Belly Band Thread
My Second Belly Band Thread
The converter has a 10A fuse, so any electrical
cord will do. In fact there should be a cord that pulls out of the trailer to plug in. If the 12 V lights
come on when the trailer is plugged in, then the converter works. There is a switch on the converter to switch between battery/vehicle power, off, and converter power. The converter is not a battery
charger. It should not even try to charge the battery
, but if you get creative with the wiring and make it charge the battery
, it will destroy the battery.
When the trailer is plugged in, try the fridge on 110VAC. You will have to switch it over in the outside, lower access door, which seems screwed shut, (there should be thumb screws holding it closed. That is also where you will light
fridge from. The user manual is available in the document center:
Fiberglass RV - Document Center - Dometic RM211 Refrigerator Manual
is a fire in a box. Nothing complicated. Open the pilot light
access. Turn the valve to light
. Push it in for a long time, (especially if it is the first time lighting) Hold a lighter in the pilot light access, till the pilot lights
. Turn the valve to on and the main burner should light. After the trailer warms up the main burner should go off. The gas valve is really all that can go wrong. Either the pilot doesn't stay lit, which could be the thermocouple, or the main burner doesn't light, or it doesn't go off. If the gas valve needs to be replaced, don't try to remove the furnace, it is not easy to do. Just get a furnace guy to install this new valve:
Robertshaw® 710-201 Unitrol Gas Valve 710 Series 7000SLC Right Valve® Equivalent
This is the best price I have found for this valve. The orignal part in the Duo-Therm furnace is part#: 41-0640. The ports on this valve are in different places then on the orignal, so some tube bending is required.
I put 14" aluminum rims from an old Ford Ranger on my trailers, but I had to grind the center hole larger. It is easier to find 14" tires