Advice on Trillium for sale, please - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-12-2013, 12:28 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P. Raz View Post
I used my " escape" window to go in and out of the trailer when I was repairing the door hinge. The door had to be taped shut to get the position correct. Other than that, I'd rather have the extra jalousie.

In regard to the eBay Trillium, it appears there is a far amount of goo on the bell band indicating a leak at some time. With out inspection, it's hard to judge if there is water damage. Raz
Good point on the extra jalousie. Since the escape hatch has no screen, we don't use it for ventilation.
I noticed the calking on the belly band, but I just assume that the belly band leaks on all Classic Trilliums. In my opinion the belly band has to go on all my trailers. I also like the look with out it.
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Old 01-12-2013, 12:41 PM   #16
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Trailer: Trillium
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Trillium Belly Band

Hello,
Never had any leaks in my Trillium's belly band.
course this trailer has lived its whole life in AZ
so rivets had no chance to deteriorate. As a
preventative measure I cleaned up the top of
the belly band and the adjoining fiberglass at
the top of the band, masked off at about 1/8"
on band and body each side of top of belly band
and sealed with clear acrylic paint/gel to seal it up.
Used stuff called TriArt Gel Medium GF 70-80.
Also got new belly band insert to keep rivets
from direct exposure to rain/water. So far,
so good = no leaks. Of course reset/sealed
all windows and roof vent, too.
Larry H
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Old 01-12-2013, 01:25 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by David Tilston View Post
I noticed the calking on the belly band, but I just assume that the belly band leaks on all Classic Trilliums. In my opinion the belly band has to go on all my trailers. I also like the look with out it.
When my belly band leaked the trailer was nose and drivers side high. I had a nice puddle in the passenger side rear storage compartment. Luckily I got to it before any damage was done to the plywood. David, having examined many old Trilliums how common is floor damage from these leaks. I can only imagine the job it would be to replace the main floor plywood. Raz
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Old 01-12-2013, 04:17 PM   #18
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Trilliums are built with gutters on each side. They act to pool any water running down the sides. On my 73? 1300 there are holes drilled in the low points of these gutters. The floor on that trailer is better then all the others. I have removed the furnace and even under the counter the paint looks like new on the plywood.
All the later trailers do not have drain holes, and I plan to find the appropriate bug screen and then drill four holes, on all of them. The holes will be low point drains just ahead of and behind the wheel wells.

Under the gaucho of my first Trillium 4500 the plywood had obviously seen water. The top layer is bubbling in places that it is de-laminating. freddo411 had some rot under the road side bench of his dinette. But the floor in the middle of the trailers all seem solid. Both the 1300's and 4500's have a sheet of plywood that runs from the bottom of the door to under the kitchen. I would imagine changing this wood would be very difficult. It would probably be necessary to cut a hole in the fibreglass from the bottom to do it. Thankfully, the gutters on either side seem to prevent this from happening.
The 1300's have a sheet of plywood that runs under the dinette. The ends are inside the dinette benches. This would also be hard to change. The 4500's have their water tank under the dinette floor, so no plywood, other then the cover on the tank.
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Old 01-12-2013, 11:27 PM   #19
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Below are some pictures that I took of the broken escape hatch on the Wedding Gift.
Attached Thumbnails
Escape Hatch Frame 01.jpg   Escape Hatch Frame 02.jpg  

Escape Hatch Frame 03.jpg   Escape Hatch Frame 04.jpg  

Escape Hatch Frame 05.jpg   Escape Hatch Frame 06.jpg  

Escape Hatch Frame 07.jpg   Escape Hatch Frame 08.jpg  

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Old 01-13-2013, 10:26 AM   #20
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Thank you, David! That looks pretty straightforward. Good!

Gutters! I never thought of gutters. Nice design on the Trillium.
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Old 01-13-2013, 11:13 AM   #21
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Hi, Louise! Looks like you're starting to educate yourself on eggs! Since there's not much in these simple little campers to cause issues, I've not worried so much about escape hatches (and for the other reasons stated in this thread). Seems like the best bet is to have all preventative safety measures in place such as a fire extinguisher, carbon monoxide detector and smoke alarm. You can also get propane detectors.
When I was shopping, I was looking (and willing to pay extra for) a unit that was fairly well maintained, and did not need a lot of repairs. IMO this one would be a 'pass' for myself, as a lady that camps alone and must do (or pay) for most of the repairs myself. But thatis my personal preference. This this type of ad is a great learning experience to understand what is out there and what the pitfalls might be.
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Old 01-13-2013, 02:24 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by havingfunnow View Post
I am learning a lot. Thank you all! David, I really appreciate the extensive analysis.

I'm going to have to think carefully about windows/escape options, Carol. Maybe it would be possible to replace one old window with a new one that functions as a hatch. (I'm pretty sure you're right about kicking a window -- but the grandkids aren't old enough!)
I think an escape window/hatch is an absolute necessity in any trailer and wouldn't think of sleeping in one that lacked that second exit point.

As for the possibility that I'd allow my Grandchildren anywhere near such a unit...can anyone say "when donkeys fly"?

Especially in units with propane appliances, the most likely place for a fire is the kitchen and in most trailers that's between the door and the sleeping area. Passing through a propane fire in order to escape it is NOT the way to come out unscathed.

Francesca

P.S.

Per Trillium jalousie vs. escape window: I use my escape window for ventilation all the time!

Click image for larger version

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It's also most convenient for bug control, since any that get in seem to congregate on that big expanse of glass, and I just open it and sweep them out.

Francesca
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Old 01-13-2013, 03:04 PM   #23
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Its also possible to modify and install an escape window within reach (if the Scamp escape hatch is too difficult). Its not an impossible project, but will involve fiberglass work. Alternatively, you can check with custom window manufacturers because they might produce one to fit whatever camper you choose. I don't know which mfr has escape windows, so you may want to start a list of years/models to look for.
FYI, my UHaul has an escape window, but it’s not the easiest thing to work and involves pulling out a tab in the locking gasket, and then kicking or pushing the whole window out of the frame. Considering how hard it was to get the window INTO the frame when I changed it out... not sure how simple of an escape this is.

I’m sure that you’ve already started taking notes, Louise, and when the right camper comes along, you’ll be ready J
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Old 01-13-2013, 03:12 PM   #24
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...........
FYI, my UHaul has an escape window, but it’s not the easiest thing to work and involves pulling out a tab in the locking gasket, and then kicking or pushing the whole window out of the frame. Considering how hard it was to get the window INTO the frame when I changed it out... not sure how simple of an escape this is. .........
It is a lot easier to get out than to get in, particularly when pushing from inside. Plus, the flames give you an adrenaline rush.
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Old 01-14-2013, 04:17 AM   #25
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The Trillium went for $2915. Good luck to the new owner. Perhaps they are a member and we will get to see the renovation. Raz
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Old 01-14-2013, 01:05 PM   #26
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I am learning -- and making lists, too! Thanks so much, everybody. I don't think I could have managed the repairs on that Trillium, but just hearing what everybody had to say about it has really taught me a lot. I think this will be the year!
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Old 01-14-2013, 08:51 PM   #27
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I think this will be the year!
Knowledge is power Louise. We're pulling for you.
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