I picked up a 30 amp, 125v. receiver fixture from my local trailer supply to install in my mid 80's 16 ft Casita. I then went to my local Ace Hardware store and bought a 30 amp, 125v. female plug to install on my power cord to complete the set up. However the hardware store female plug will not go onto the newly installed male fixture on the trailer. All of the blades line up with their corresponding slots but it appears that one of the blades is too wide fit its corresponding slot. I rechecked the packaging of both items and they both say 30 amp -125v. on the packaging. What gives ? Does the RV industry use a different standard on their 30 amp fixtures? I can probably get a file into the trailer side receptacle and file it down to fit. But I hate doing that kind of garbage given that I spent over $70 for the two pieces dang it !
Anyhow, I hope someone here has some insight into why these to plugs will not mate.
Do you have a brand and model number for the cord end twist lock? Are you sure it wasn't somehow a "mis-marked" 20 Amp 125 Volt plug, or perhaps a 30 Amp 250 Volt plug? Strange that it doesn't mate up if they are both 30 Amp, 125 Volt twist locks, as all the various Amperage rated plugs have their own specific prong patterns. Plugs and sockets from any manufacturer should be interchangeable for any specific given Amp/Voltage rating as they are an industry standard in configuration for each size. Just for reference, these are what I used on my conversion. I also installed a larger hatch door as well, which doesn't have the "mouse door" in it and a Progressive Dynamics EMS 30 Amp power management system in the line before the converter.
...there are RV only ends for these cords...they fit nothing else...they are TT30R(female) and TT30P(male)...the one you have is a twist lock plug, they are not compatible...both(30r/30p) are available from Amazon, CW and most any electrical supply and possibly a box or hardware store...assuming a knowledgeable salesperson.......
madjack
Trailer: Escape 21, behind an '02 F250 7.3 diesel tug
Mid Left Coast
Posts: 2,941
The TT30 is the 30A trailer park connector, thats an RV only weird plug.
The bulkhead connector used on Escapes and many other campers is a NEMA L5-30. 5 means 120V (6 are 240V). The one on my escape has an additional lock ring as the "twist lock' L5 connectors aren't that secure.
When I look up the TT30R plugs, I came up with several suppliers including Home Depot and Amazon. The plugs pictured and listed as TT30R are not twist lock plugs. Here is an example. https://www.amazon.com/Progressive-I.../dp/B0009SS9CY
Here is a photo of my actual receptical.
Here is the female end I bought today at the hardware store. It appears to be pretty close except that the small slot ( the one at 11:00 o'clock) isn't as long as the blade it that fits into it.
...there are RV only ends for these cords...they fit nothing else...they are TT30R(female) and TT30P(male)...the one you have is a twist lock plug, they are not compatible...both(30r/30p) are available from Amazon, CW and most any electrical supply and possibly a box or hardware store...assuming a knowledgeable salesperson.......
madjack
madjack,
I think you are confusing a standard 3-Prong RV power pedestal plug, which is not a twist-lock type, but merely a 30 Amp 125 Volt straight-push plug. It's apples and oranges. And incidentally, they are not solely for RV use. Any appliance that uses a standard 30 Amp 125 Volt plug will use that same plug as well in the standard "push in" plug.
I think you are confusing a standard 3-Prong RV power pedestal plug, which is not a twist-lock type, but merely a 30 Amp 125 Volt straight-push plug. It's apples and oranges. And incidentally, they are not solely for RV use. Any appliance that uses a standard 30 Amp 125 Volt plug will use that same plug as well in the standard "push in" plug.
So I should be able to just exchange this plug for another general hardware store 30amp, 125v. twistlock.
I was trying to do my civic duty by buying local on this project but it wound up costing me too much. The fixture end cost almost double what it would have been if I had ordered it online. I see that Amazon sells a whole 25ft. cord for only $10 more than I paid for only the cord end. Because the Amazon cord is for maritime use, it even has the secondary threaded locking collar that this fixture accepts that makes it more waterproof. This story illustrates why local brick and mortar stores are having a hard time competing with the online stores. But I digress......... Lesson learned.
Trailer: Sold the Bigfoot 17-Looking for a new one
Washington
Posts: 1,562
Quote:
Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz
the camper has a L5-30 (30A, 125V). your receptical is a L6-30 (30A, 250V)
meh, the drawings here aren't very good. the difference is pretty subtle.
Indeed, the pictures look similar which is confusing, but the numbers make it easier. The National Electrical Manufactures Association has standardizes numbers. A NEMA number should be visible on any plug or receptacle. The numbers must match up for the plug and receptacle to join together. Look for a NEMA L5-30 and you are good to go. As far as prices go, there are some major quality differences in brands. Daniel Woodhead and Hubbell are at the higher end in quality. Other brands would be less expensive.
NEMA Plug and Receptacle Configurations
Heres a chart of commonly used plug and receptacle configurations used in North America. Note that many are available in straight blade or twist lock configurations so if you have a twist lock plug you have to have the matching twist lock receptacle etc.
Trailer: Escape 21, behind an '02 F250 7.3 diesel tug
Mid Left Coast
Posts: 2,941
Quote:
Originally Posted by Casita Greg
madjack,
I think you are confusing a standard 3-Prong RV power pedestal plug, which is not a twist-lock type, but merely a 30 Amp 125 Volt straight-push plug. It's apples and oranges. And incidentally, they are not solely for RV use. Any appliance that uses a standard 30 Amp 125 Volt plug will use that same plug as well in the standard "push in" plug.
no, the trailer pedestal plug is a "TT-30" which uis NOT the same as the standard 30A 125V outlet, a NEMA 5-30, see them both on this chart here...
Thanks all for your help. I went back to the hardware store today and returned the last 30a/250v. twist lock plug and exchanged it for the same in 125v. These plugs com in plastag bags and are stored in bins on the shelf. When I went through the bin marked 30a/125v, I found two other 250v versions in the tub. I think that I picked the one up yesterday, I got it from the right bin but I got one of the 250's. Lesson for me......ALWAYS read the package! Whether this is RV only, NEMA or whatever, this plug fits the fixture on my trailer and locks when you give it a twist. That's good'nuff for me.
My cord is all set up. I have power to the breaker panel. Now I have to finish the rest of the wiring. 30a is way overkill given that I plan to run the trailer solely on 12v most of the time. I was really in it for having the twist lock plug and play on the side of my trailer.
I think you are confusing a standard 3-Prong RV power pedestal plug, which is not a twist-lock type, but merely a 30 Amp 125 Volt straight-push plug. It's apples and oranges. And incidentally, they are not solely for RV use. Any appliance that uses a standard 30 Amp 125 Volt plug will use that same plug as well in the standard "push in" plug.
....that is exactly what I was talking about, the standard RV pedestal type plug...I thought the OP a was trying to mate a tt30r with an uncompatible hook up by filing a leg down on the twist lock...that would not be safe...while I do realize other uses for them, RV's account for about a kazillion per cent of them..........
madjack
Whoever is right or wrong aside, I have solved my dilemma and can tell you that the common hardware store, 30 amp/ 125v. female twist lock connector will fit this receiver fixture as designed. The one pictured in Casita Greg's original posting and mine are identical. Since the fixture is actually designed for marine use, it has additional feature that consists of threads on the outer side of the fixture. If you buy the proper cord designed for the fixture, after you twist lock the plug itself, there is a thread on cap located on the cord that screws over the entire plug in connection. Because it also has an O ring seal, it makes a very water resistant connection as well as a redundant locking mechanism. It is about the most bulletproof connection as you will find. (Think million dollar yachts tired up at a pier) If you buy your parts together on an online discounters like Amazon, You can get all of the water tight connection parts as well as 25ft. of 30 amp capable cord for about the same price that I paid buying parts piecemeal locally and I didn't get the cord or the extra locking mechanism.