7 pin connector - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 12-16-2014, 12:42 PM   #15
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Name: Steve
Trailer: Scamp 13
Posts: 1,035
Where possible try to use the same brand plug and socket or at least use name brand connectors. This is one place you don't want to cut corners. Faulty connectors will drive you nuts and at the worst time when your ready to go. I always cross my fingers when I plug in my trailer and test the lights.

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Old 12-16-2014, 01:26 PM   #16
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Name: Joe
Trailer: 1999 Casita 17' SD
Posts: 312
Not all 7 pin pigtails are made the same ether.

Bargman cables have contacts on both sides of the connector pins and other brands such as Hopkins only have contacts on one side.
That in it's self makes a better fitting cable.

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Old 12-18-2014, 03:21 AM   #17
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Permetex says:

Dielectric grease is a non-conductive, silicone grease designed to seal out moisture and, therefore, prevent corrosion on electrical connectors. Being non-conductive, it does not enhance the flow of electrical current. This property makes it an ideal lubricant and sealant for the rubber portions of electrical connectors.

While the indicated use of dielectric grease calls for it to be used only on the non-metal parts of a connection, it has been shown to be effective at preventing corrosion when applied directly to the metal connectors as well. Care should be taken when using it in this way, because this application can, in some instances, cause the connection to stop working. A common reason for such a failure is that the grease has not been pushed entirely out of the way between the two points of contact.

Electrical resistance is inversely proportional to the cross sectional area of the conductor. That is, the smaller the contact area, the higher the resistance. In order for the contacts to have the same resistance with the grease as without, all the grease would have to be pushed away when the plug is inserted. In order to provide the desired corrosion protection all the grease would then have to flow back.

A high resistance connection to any of the circuits supplied by the 7 pin connection is not a good thing. In fact, it could be quite dangerous. A well meaning mechanic put some of this stuff on my 7 pin socket. I did not realize it until I had driven quite some distance; without brake lights or turn signals. I think putting dielectric grease on a 7 pin connection is bad idea. Keep safe, Raz
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Old 12-18-2014, 04:24 AM   #18
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Name: Dave
Trailer: Casita SD17 2006
Posts: 2,077
Good post Raz and I think that the explanation from Permetex is valid and reasonable. It does make sence about loss of power flow. I've never used it nor had reason to. But I do think there are some connections that would benefit with its use and where you travel.
Guess I've been lucky with tow plugs working. I've always changed the connectors to round 6 pins (except the SD) on any trailer I've owned along with 2" couplers. Even if it was a little 4 x 8 utility trailer as it made hitching up easy and fortunatly/unfortunatly I've got 5 different ones to pick from. The 6 pins have split spades and every once in a while I spread them just a tad so the fit is tight.
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Old 12-18-2014, 06:42 AM   #19
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Name: Tim
Trailer: '88 Scamp 16, layout 4
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Originally Posted by Jim Bennett View Post
What I have done with the 7-pin cable, is to mount a holder for it, that protects it from the elements when not connected to the tow vehicle, and really like it. I have put one on all my trailers now.
RV and Trailer plug protection - Plug-Guard
I learned the hard way to protect the plug during storage of the trailer. My Scamp, which I rescued from a long dormant state in the previous owner’s backyard, came with a badly corroded plug. It had been hanging where water could run down the wire and into the back of the plug. Although most of the plug is plastic and copper, the screws that hold the wires are apparently carbon steel and a couple had rusted off. Just out of pure stubbornness I took every part of the plug apart (one at a time to not lose the wire sequence) and carefully cleaned them. I actually removed each of the contacts from the body and sanded them to a bright shine on fine sandpaper. I had to make new screws to replace some as they are very short. I also cleaned the exposed wire ends with a fine wire brush. It now works beautifully. Not long after all this activity I found a brand new plug in an upper drawer of one of my tool boxes that I had purchased for some other long forgotten project. Oh well, at least I have a spare!
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Old 12-18-2014, 07:49 AM   #20
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Name: Joe
Trailer: 1999 Casita 17' SD
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What also works is to lift the propane cover up and droop the 7 pin cable around the tank retainer and put the cover back on.
This only will work if your cable is long enough, mine is.
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Old 12-18-2014, 11:48 AM   #21
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Name: Darral
Trailer: Scamp Standard 13' 2010
Posts: 1,124
I do the exact same Joe. Protecting my plug (Cover over socket on Tow)

I was camping with some friends about 4 yrs ago. He was "fiddling" with his signal/tail lights on his trailer- not working. This was a Surveyor laminate 28'er. He'd had it a few years. I finally walked over and he said neither tail light was working. In a nice way, I asked him about the plug. Finally, I said, "Let me try something and you watch". I went to the 7 pin, unplugged, plugged it back in rapidly a few times and WAH LAH!! It started working! It was corroded HORRIBLY.

I suggested cleaning the terminals as best as possible THEN use some dielectric grease and coat them to protect them from corrosion again. He did and hasnt had an issue since.

I also keep my plug/socket coated with dieletric grease- and have since the trailer was bought new in the Spring of 2010. If the terminals are all working correctly, they will make contact when plugged in. I've used this concept (along with Joe's idea of protecting my plug from water getting in it while it's in storage) and never had one hook-up issue with my trailer. I periodically look at the blades/pin on the plug/socket and they still look brand new!

So, in my opinion, on a new trailer, keep the plug/socket lightly coated with dielectric grease to PROTECT it from corrosion. You're ALOT less likely to have problems with the grease rather than NOT using it and risking corrosion to which you WILL have a failure! This is not something I read about, but from experience on both sides.....

Originally Posted by Joe Romas View Post
What also works is to lift the propane cover up and droop the 7 pin cable around the tank retainer and put the cover back on.
This only will work if your cable is long enough, mine is.

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