'77 Scamp Electrical Help Needed - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-16-2013, 12:26 AM   #15
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Name: Linda
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Thanks for the diagram Carol. It's much more complex than the one I have. My '77 was very basic, and I believe they probably did some additions over time. I have AC plugs, but don't believe there was ever a TV booster. I'll take your diagram with mine to the trailer tomorrow and try to sort through it.
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Old 03-16-2013, 12:49 AM   #16
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Thanks for the diagram Carol. It's much more complex than the one I have. My '77 was very basic, and I believe they probably did some additions over time. I have AC plugs, but don't believe there was ever a TV booster. I'll take your diagram with mine to the trailer tomorrow and try to sort through it.
Your welcome. Send me a PM with your email address if you would like a bigger better resolution one. Your trailer may not have had a TV booster but I believe on trailers that dont have the TV booster/12V plug combo they just put in a 12v plug..... could be wrong though.
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Old 03-16-2013, 07:42 AM   #17
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Linda if you need a larger copy of the diagram Carol provided, you can download it from the Document Center here: Fiberglass RV - Document Center - WiringDiagram_Scamp
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Old 03-16-2013, 09:29 AM   #18
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Electrical

...Here is what my long time teacher told me regarding to ELECTRICAL STUFFS: DO not believe what you HEARD AND ONLY BELIEVE... A HALF OF WHAT YOU SEE...Test, test, and...test. Check, check and....check. Just a quote for fun into any attemp of repair/modification...ect. Thanks for reading.
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Old 03-16-2013, 12:54 PM   #19
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[QUOTE=Thinh;369992 DO not believe what you HEARD AND ONLY BELIEVE... A HALF OF WHAT YOU SEE...Test, test, and...test. Check, check and....check.[/QUOTE]

And THAT is probably the best advice ever given on the forum. The best thing is I'm learning as I'm doing. They say that learning new things is the best thing to prevent dementia. I know I have posted many dumb questions on the forum, but I always get smart answers. Thank you all!
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Old 03-16-2013, 11:12 PM   #20
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Update

I did my investigation today as everyone suggested. The 2 posts are indeed remote battery terminals. The green is pos and white is neg. They go only to the battery. I hooked up my float charger under the sink which is an easy way to do it. I don't have to leave the battery box open now.
The rats nest of wires under the sink go from the 6 pin connector for TV to the trailer exterior travel lights. A couple of wires (the red one) were replaced and instead of removing the old wires, they just left them, and taped the ends. I cleaned up the wiring and I feel much better about the state of the wiring.
So now I'd like to get your thoughts on using those remote battery terminals located under the sink, and attach the solar controller to it. Is that as efficient as connecting directly to the battery?
Thanks in advance everyone.
Linda
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Old 03-16-2013, 11:41 PM   #21
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Yes, no, maybe so. It depends on the length/gauge of the wiring, and the amps your solar can put out.

this should help with that: 12VDC wire ampacity chart

If you keep it setup that way, I would switch to something like this, for safety's sake:

Battery remote terminal

Battery remote terminal
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Old 03-17-2013, 08:42 AM   #22
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..........So now I'd like to get your thoughts on using those remote battery terminals located under the sink, and attach the solar controller to it. Is that as efficient as connecting directly to the battery?......
If you need a remote location to hook up up a battery charger, I'd go with much smaller bolts and I'd put a plastic cap over the heads while not in use. I'd also install a circuit breaker or fuse in series with the battery just in case it gets shorted. The battery circuit breaker is a good idea in any case to prevent a fire.

You can attach a solar controller to the battery via these bolts if the wire is big enough. I think I'd want at least a 12 gauge wire to minimize losses, 10 gauge would be better. Solar panels are getting cheaper every day and an upgrade in the future is likely.
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Old 03-17-2013, 08:47 AM   #23
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Oh Boy Linda you have opened up the potential for a whole new forum discussion. Think of the wire in an analogy of a highway. The cars are "electrons or current" and the highway is the diameter of the wire. The bigger the highway the more cars can be on the road comfortably. But you wouldn't put a 32 lane highway in Mountain Home, Idaho. If you use LED lighting as opposed to bulbs then less current is needed. Like narrowing a 32 lane highway down to 2 lanes at the exit point. (but those 5 cars sure love the road to themselves). The smaller road cant handle all that traffic and problems result and visa versa. Sorry for the analogy if you didn't need it. I'm a Ham radio operator and will probably need 20 amps for my rig sitting at the table. I am going to run a #6 or #8 bus wire from my battery(s) to a connector under the seat. From that one sized wire I can literally run all my other terminal breakout points via a fused panel with no problem. As Jared pointed out in the chart probably for most uses on smaller campers a #14 or #12 is quite adequate. The energy (or cars ) from your solar panel feeding your battery wont bog down with those wires. Many panel manuf recommend #10 to reduce voltage drop issues. Obviously you will be limited to panel sizes and your roof real estate.
An alternative to the battery post is a terminal block arrangement as
Eddie suggested on another thread. Trailer Wiring Junction Box Spectro Accessories and Parts 38656

Hope I havent compounded the issue and I am sure others will have more to add.
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Old 03-17-2013, 10:40 AM   #24
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Hummm if it was me I would be more than a little concerned with how safe it is having those battery terminal connections located in the trailer and float charging running inside as well, things can go wrong from time to time.

I have my Solar controller connected directly to the battery - pretty easy to run the wire for it back through the hole in the front of the trailer where all your wiring enters the trailer and mounted it on the face of the lower front storage hatch that it enters into if you are wanting to be able to read its state at any time.
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Old 03-17-2013, 11:51 AM   #25
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Being a electrician for over 40 years I can tell you that the hardest thing to repair or understand is home owner do it yourself wiring . We are trained to do our work according to the code and to the standards we were taught in our apprenticeship Non electricians install wiring many times in ways an electrician would never think of and at times are confusing to us. IE short wires, improper splices. too small or no junction boxes , using wrong colored wires .wrong size wires , improperly connected devices , lack of equipment grounding , using plumbing fittings with electrical conduit , lots of tape is better , extension cords buried in walls , wires spliced in a wall. I would rather rewire a 100 year old house that has never been touched than one a home owner has worked on .
The cost to tear out and replace the work done by the homeowner plus the time to explain to the home owner why there are additional charges and what he did was unsafe is not worth the headache. Trying to figure out what someone who did Not know what he was doing is extremely frustating
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Old 03-17-2013, 02:13 PM   #26
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Eeeeeeeeegads! Okay, I get it. I'll have to think about where to put the controller. At least there are some good options to consider.
Mike:
I like the box you posted Mike. I'll do some more reading about it and the set up. By the way, Hubby is W6XY--you may have crossed radio paths.
Linda
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Old 03-17-2013, 03:19 PM   #27
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Thanks Linda, The box was really designed for a trailer 7 wire bus access and termination point BUT I like the idea of the heavy duty terminal strip and it's water tight compartment. There is a mini-fuse distribution panel that was shown somewhere on one of threads. Bet Donna knows where its at. I hope to use that too.
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Old 03-17-2013, 04:07 PM   #28
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Small distribution panel Mike? This one? Need guidance wiring 12v Distribution panel
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