Advice Installing Power / Electrical from Scratch - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-10-2008, 06:31 AM   #15
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Like Gina said above, if one is trying to support a 12V fridge during travel then you might consider a 10ga recharging line from the TV, but I've had a 12ga on mine for a year and it tops my battery right back up when we move without any excess heat on the wire.
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Greg A. - I am almost with you 100%. Where I very is that I had to do three things in order for the frig to run properly while traveling. I had shorten the length of run to my Frig, eliminate the number of connections (each connection lowers the voltage) and increase the size wire to 10 AWG in order to be able to run the frig while towing.

I think I just spent part of your 2
The difference is that Greg has a much smaller refrigerator than yours, Mike.
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Old 04-10-2008, 09:35 AM   #16
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Beer companies try to lease Mikes new big beautiful Bigfoot fridge for transport of stock when he is one the road.

It's lovely and I am very jealous. It's a "Real" fridge.

We have little puney things that *May* hold one popcycle and a six pack of pop.. sigh.
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Old 04-10-2008, 10:56 AM   #17
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Beer companies try to lease Mikes new big beautiful Bigfoot fridge for transport of stock when he is one the road.
It's lovely and I am very jealous. It's a "Real" fridge.
We have little puney things that *May* hold one popcycle and a six pack of pop.. sigh.
I think Mike was talking about his Casita, Gina. It had a 4.1 cu ft versus about 3 cu ft or less for Greg's.
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Old 04-10-2008, 11:59 AM   #18
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My sense of this discussion is that there are engineering reasons to use marine wiring and even marine hardware (although it hasn't been part of the discussion so far).

But it's an issue of cost versus benefit.

We all seem to be weighing the benefit side differently because there is more than an engineering side to the benefits.

Fully tinned wire is better for corrosion resistance but not all of us are near the ocean and salt air is probably the leading contributor to corrosion.

Increased strands and cross sectional area does reduce losses from resistance but if most of our time is spent hooked to shore power then it's less of an issue (benefit).

I only use stainless hardware, but much of it is installed inside the trailer. I think it will look good longer and it suits MY personal sense of what I want MY work to look like. That may be of little benefit to others.

I haven't seen any dangerous recommendations so far. Mostly just people reporting what works for them.
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Old 04-10-2008, 01:28 PM   #19
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Howdy . I'm a licensed Master Tech for the past 40 + years . I " matured " as ayoung apprentice on Lincoln Continental " Hard Top Boxes " . Remember ? Hard tops which disappeared into trunks ? Cool but waaaay toooo complicated . Before computers . Not to blow me Horn , just givin' some very sound advice . Even if you are fair at wirin' , get HP Books - Automotive Electrical Handbook by Jim Horner . An absolute " Must " for your Library . Also get " Shore Power " - Basic AC Electrical Systems on your Boat . 'Tis from Marinco ( Marine Electrical Products , Novato , Cal. ) { 415 } 883-3347 Boat stuff is safety first end- loaded . This is the one for 110 / 120 V systems . Previous is for 12V systems . These two books are written in laymans terms and are easy to comprehend . Do not be afraid of electricity , it's " Only 12 Volts " or the oft heard phrase , " it's only 110 Volts " are echoed daily from the work sight . Good Luck , Will O'Crotty
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Old 04-10-2008, 01:52 PM   #20
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Beer companies try to lease Mikes new big beautiful Bigfoot fridge for transport of stock when he is one the road.
It's lovely and I am very jealous. It's a "Real" fridge.
We have little puney things that *May* hold one popcycle and a six pack of pop.. sigh.
Now we know which trailer to hang out at at gatherings!!

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