All electric, or gas and electric? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-05-2007, 10:41 AM   #15
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the next advantage to having an off the grid rig, if you store it at home, is it serves as an emergency pod for extended power outages, or..

in the case of a couple people I know here.. a place to live when doing work on your house and the house is inhabitable, or, at least, not a pleasant environment to be in.

*she says as she is in the process of replacing all the cloth wire in her 1950 built cabin*
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Old 10-05-2007, 11:05 AM   #16
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After we got caught on the east side of the Sierras late in the day by a fast moving early winter storm, finding refuge in a Forest Service campground with no services, I have been eternally grateful for my propane heater!

And so will the person you sell your trailer to some day.
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Old 10-05-2007, 03:12 PM   #17
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And the one topic no one has addressed. Resale value. Will an all electric model sell for the same price (more... less) than a standard propane/electric model.

I think an all electric would probably sell for less. AND might be harder to sell.
This is true, I went and looked at a Trillium 4500 this spring, looking to get a few more feet of space, the price was good, the condition was good, but all the propane had been ripped out and it was all electric. We decided to stick with what we had, it took a long time for that trailer to sell.

Out of 28 days camping this year, in campgrounds from Saskatchewan to California, we only managed to stay 3 nights in camp sites with electricity. It wouldn't have been much fun without having propane fridge/stove/heat.
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Old 10-05-2007, 03:57 PM   #18
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And we went the other way--- no electrical (12V or 120V) in our Scamp. The icebox is now a cupboard and a large icechest sets right inside the door while traveling and is the first thing unloaded. LED puck lights (surprisingly enuff to read by) and an LED lantren that gets moved to various hanging spots. Most of the places we like to go to only have currant bushes, and I haven't ever figured out how to wire them in....... Heat is a Mr Buddy--even keeps me warm during Elk season in the snow. (also have propane lantrens stowed under the dinette-and in nasty weather they provide heat inside also--) As far as resale value, I dunno, my heirs will have to find out.... Larry
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Old 10-05-2007, 09:38 PM   #19
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Out of 28 days camping this year, in campgrounds from Saskatchewan to California, we only managed to stay 3 nights in camp sites with electricity. It wouldn't have been much fun without having propane fridge/stove/heat.

The dealer tells me that the current propane heaters draw 14 Amps for the fan. This seems excessive to me, does this sound accurate? If so it would deplete a battery in short order when the furnace was running. Other than that I think you have convinced me to buy the one with propane heat and water heater and cooking. Thanks for the in-put.

Homer
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Old 10-06-2007, 10:33 AM   #20
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If I were always camping where there was suitable electrical service, I would certainly consider all-electric as a simple and convenient system; however, the trailer would have at least 30A electrical capacity (likely a 2x50A service instead), and I would not expect full functionality with any generator I were willing to carry.

I see two issues in running an all-electric trailer with a generator, in addition to those already mentioned.

A 2000W generator will not be able to provide sufficient power to run any two of the space heater, water heater, and cooking appliances at the same time, let alone all of them.

Even a 2000W generator is likely at least as heavy as the propane system, and almost as expensive.
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Old 10-06-2007, 10:38 AM   #21
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The dealer tells me that the current propane heaters draw 14 Amps for the fan. This seems excessive to me, does this sound accurate? If so it would deplete a battery in short order when the furnace was running.
I have a Suburban NT12-MEC; while it is almost three decades old, I don't think the new ones are much different. While I certainly notice the power draw (I recently mentioned in another thread that the lights dim when it comes on), I don't see an actual current rating in the manual, and have not measured it. I would be concerned about running the furnace on battery for any extended period.

To avoid the fan's power consumption, the currently popular solution is to use a radiant heater, such as the catalytic types. They are typically also unvented, and safe to use that way with proper ventilation.
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Old 10-06-2007, 11:59 AM   #22
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The dealer tells me that the current propane heaters draw 14 Amps for the fan. This seems excessive to me, does this sound accurate? If so it would deplete a battery in short order when the furnace was running.
I just looked through my Suburban heater manual and could not find the amp draw anywhere, other than 1 amp for the electronic ignition when it is firing, but I've used it dry camping late in the day through the night and it was running strong in the morning. It may draw that, but only running 5 minutes every 30 (or whatever) means it can easily keep you warm at least the first night off a full charge!
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Old 10-07-2007, 12:04 AM   #23
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The dealer tells me that the current propane heaters draw 14 Amps for the fan. This seems excessive to me, does this sound accurate? If so it would deplete a battery in short order when the furnace was running. Other than that I think you have convinced me to buy the one with propane heat and water heater and cooking. Thanks for the in-put.

Homer
He's wrong, very wrong. I just measured the current for my propane heater. 2 Amps for the fan, maybe another 1/2 amp for the igniter. The igniter isn't on quite long enough for my DMM sampling to get an accurate reading.
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Old 10-07-2007, 10:29 AM   #24
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...I just measured the current for my propane heater. 2 Amps for the fan, maybe another 1/2 amp for the igniter...
Great info, Byron!

What make and model of heater is this?
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Old 10-07-2007, 12:10 PM   #25
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Great info, Byron!

What make and model of heater is this?
It's one these three, Suburban NT-12SE, NT-16SE, or NT-20SE
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