Battery Charger Needed - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 05-22-2006, 08:57 PM   #29
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Bigfoot Mike's Avatar
Name: Mike
Trailer: Bigfoot 25 ft
Posts: 7,317
These are the battery chargers I bought:

BatteryMINDer Plus 12 Volt 1.3 Amp
Code: VDC-12117
Price: $49.95

BatteryMINDer 12 Volt 4 Amp
Code: VDC-12041
Price: $95.95

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Old 06-13-2006, 04:32 PM   #30
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Trailer: 1968 Venture (Molded Fiberglass 19 ft Class A Motorhome) and 82 TranStar B+
Posts: 164
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I noticed where someone had charged up their trailer battery with their new Schumacher in a short time !! Things change over the years, since I started RVing, many years ago, but I was under the impression that a deep cycle battery should not be charged quickly. I have always been careful to only trickle charge mine. Is that no longer necessary ?
Of course back then, you couldn't put a battery on a cement floor, or it would suck the juice out of it , but you can now, as they are made differently.

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Old 07-24-2006, 07:00 AM   #31
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Name: George
Trailer: 78 Trillium 4500
New York
Posts: 8
I purchased the new converter with the charge wizard from ebay for $125.00. (PD9245C )

Now, as Pete said, the shore power in and the 120 breaker panel and the converter with it's associated fuses, all seem to be closely tied together in my Bigfoot. I'm hopeing that it will not be impossible to replace what I have with this new converter. I am looking forward to being able to plug into shore power when I get home and not have to remember to unplug a few days latter.

If anyone has any sugestions for the installation of the new unit I would welcome the input.

I wish to keep the shore power in and the 120 breakers and only disconnect the converter part of the orig system and replace it with the new.

Paul, (and other forum contributors)
I would reiterate Patricia Baxter's request for details on your install of the new converter. I bought the same model after reading all of the threads about converters it seemed the better way to go for my 78 trillium. The previous owner had taken out the original converter (progressive dynamics unit), since it was boiling the battery.
I however did not do my homework before getting the #9245, since the old unit has AC output protected by a resettable cb, and the new one (and apparently most modern converters )does not, having only fuses for their DC output and reverse polarity.

In reading my Trillium owners manual, notes from the owner and tracing wires in the egg, It appears I only have DC fuses where the positive lead comes off the battery, and also a fuse block with a couple of fuses where the battery cable enters the egg under the front bunk.

Where the old converter was removed under the gravity propane heater, the owner tied the shore cable directly to the only AC lead there ( orange AC Lumex? ) which from there leads to apparently all the rest of the AC (three outlets and the 3way dometic). 3DC white and 3 DC black were also wire nutted togeter on the output side. Eveything runs ok but...

My thought on getting AC cb protection short of having to buy an RV power panel (too big for the space and too $$$) was to wire the shore cable AC lead to a heavy duty 6 outlet power strip which comes with a 15 amp breaker (same as was in the original converter), and then plug the single orange AC lead with a grounding plug into that as well as plug in the converter, secure everything tightly and ? I realize no filtering of AC for electronics, but did you do it differently or have a different situation? Any other comments from forum members would be gratefully appreciated.


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