battery draw? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 07-09-2014, 04:15 AM   #15
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deryk's Avatar
Name: deryk
Trailer: 2012 Parkliner 2010 V6 Nissan Frontier 4x4
New Jersey
Posts: 2,086
Now running your fridge on 12 volt does draw alot of juice from the batteries...and depending on how heavy a gauge wire is coming from your tow vehicle's battery that will determine how much juice is going to your trailers batteries(well the size of your alternator too) My Rav4 I think had a smaller gauge wire then my Frontier because I seem to get a better charge while towing. I added a 100 watt solar panel to my roof and so far on bright days when I am towing a distance, it seems my batteries are mostly charged when I arrive vs without the solar panel. Do you have a voltmeter to check the batteries?


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Old 07-09-2014, 05:18 AM   #16
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Name: Joe
Trailer: 1999 Casita 17' SD
Posts: 312

It's beginning to sound like you travel with the refrigerator on 12 volt DC. If that's the case it's obviously your problem.
The solution is to run rour refrigerator on propane when traveling, it's much more effecient.
We tow with a Chevy Silverado that boasts the charging level when the "tow" button is pushed and I've increased the wire size in the truck. On our last trip I tried running the refrigerator on DC just to see if I could. While eating lunch at a rest stop I watched the Casita battery's voltage with my plug in voltage meter drop from an acceptable level to drastically low.
So I switched to propane as I have always used.
Yes when traveling some underwater tunnels and gas stations you need to stop and switch to DC but this is no big deal for me.


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Old 07-09-2014, 05:22 AM   #17
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Name: Steve
Trailer: 2003 Casita 16' SD
Posts: 1,652
I have measured the voltage and current leaving my tow vehicle while towing (<5 amps) and it's not enough to compensate for the refrig on 12v (~10 amps). Your tow may vary, but through at least 3 different tow vehicles (Ford) I've never been able to recharge the trailer by driving.

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