Burro widebody electrical question - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-15-2016, 08:54 AM   #1
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Name: Mike
Trailer: Burro
Iowa
Posts: 14
Burro widebody electrical question

It appears my new to me burro is only wired up for 120v. I see no converter box or breaker box. Currently the power cord connects to the outlet by the sink then goes elsewhere to run the air and power another installed outlet.

First question- where should the converter/breaker be located? Was it part of the original heater?

Second question- since it appears I need a new converter/ breaker any suggestions on which to use? May potential for solar?

Mike
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Old 08-16-2016, 05:44 AM   #2
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Name: Pete
Trailer: Burro Wide Body 17ft.
Nebraska
Posts: 4
Burro electrical

Last spring we purchased a 1986 Widebody. It had the 120v setup as you described. Ours had a GFCI on the outlet by the sink. We ended up getting the Burro re-wired with 30 amp plus we added four more outlets for convenience. The GFCI was eliminated and our breaker box was installed inside the closet by sink. Now we have 25 ft of 30 amp wire with 30 amp plug coming out of the trailer to plug into power post at campsite. We are happy we did this. No more plugging and unplugging to fit the situation. We paid about $450 to get it done. If you need extra 25ft 30 amp cord, go online to Northern Tools and a 25 ft cord was only $27, normally they cost about $50.
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Old 09-02-2016, 09:14 AM   #3
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Name: Don
Trailer: 1989 Burro
Tennessee
Posts: 59
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mtanner View Post
It appears my new to me burro is only wired up for 120v. I see no converter box or breaker box. Currently the power cord connects to the outlet by the sink then goes elsewhere to run the air and power another installed outlet.

First question- where should the converter/breaker be located? Was it part of the original heater?

Second question- since it appears I need a new converter/ breaker any suggestions on which to use? May potential for solar?

Mike
Does your trailer have roof AC? If so, you probably have 30 amp service. The converter on our 1989 wide body is located forward in the floor cabinet on the street side. About the size of a shoe box. The 25' cord exits the trailer on the street side out of that cabinet. The shore power plug is larger than a 110v plug and won't fit in a household 110v outlet. It's triangular and sometimes is confused with a 220 v "crows foot". The female plug is usually marked "TT" which stands for travel trailer and this is what's on the pole at campgrounds that have 30 amp service. I hope you have a converter which is great! It converts the AC power coming from the camp ground shore power to DC power so you can run all your lights without using your battery power. The converter also recharges the battery while you're connected to shore power. The converter would not have anything to do with the breaker or the heater. Happy camping.
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Old 09-02-2016, 09:42 AM   #4
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Name: Mike
Trailer: Burro
Iowa
Posts: 14
Thank you for the response. It does help point me in the direction I need to go.

The reason I mentioned the heater is currently is I'd not plugged into anything. When I look at the wiring there is a set of wires that powered the original lighs and has a another set of wires that runs to the not original gas heater. I assume the wires would power the heaters fan. None of this is plugged into a power source. There is a plastic plug connector the at one time plugged into something. Since the original heater is gone I guessed it was some kind of combo thing.

I do know the current wiring is just a standard plug like you would use in your home. I'm going to have to replace that with a 30 amp wire, breaker, and converter. Will also need to figure out the 12v setup.
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Old 09-04-2016, 10:35 AM   #5
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Name: Don
Trailer: 1989 Burro
Tennessee
Posts: 59
Get a 12V "deep cycle" battery and mount it in a box on the tongue. Are there some wires there already? Should be #10 stranded and the white should be connected to the Pos battery terminal and the black to the neg terminal. Be sure there's a 30amp inline fuse on the positive wire between the battery and the coach. If not there might be a re-settable breaker mounted just inside the coach where the wires go through the skin. There might be a number of disconnected wires at that point. The #14 or #16 gauge wires (smaller) will likely go to the 12 v lighting system. Take the light fixtures apart and check the ends against ends of the wires laying loose just inside the trailer. Use a meter set on continuity. Watch a lot of YouTube videos. You can do it.
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