Casita SD wiring question - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-10-2018, 04:28 PM   #15
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Why fridge hage 12v option? It dont work well and drain lot of energy from the battery. Is it ok to run with the gaz on ? I am new in the RV world.
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Have no idea why the fridges have a 12 volt option since we've never been able to use it for more than going to the gas station from our overnight stop so we wouldn't have to stop and go inside to shut off the fridge so we could fuel up. Then after fueling up we pull away from the pumps, go inside and put it on propane.
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Old 11-10-2018, 07:21 PM   #16
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Thanks everyone for your input on this thread I started. I too am now a believer that towing with the fridge on 12V is just not feasible. While heavier wiring my help, the infrastructure of most tow vehicles and trailers are just not equipped to deal with this type of current draw. There are basically two options, tow with propane on or get the fridge good and cold before you leave and don't open the door until you get to your campsite. (providing the it doesn't take all day)
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Old 11-10-2018, 07:29 PM   #17
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In October, several years back, we drove home to North Vancouver from Nehalem State Park. The fridge was turned off and not opened for the six hour trip. A pint of ice cream in the fridge freezer was just soft enough to scoop when we got home.

That said, I now travel with the fridge on propane.
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Old 11-11-2018, 02:59 PM   #18
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fridges have 12v option so you can use converter when plugged in to 110v campground. for a long time options were 12v and propane only, 110v came along after
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Old 11-11-2018, 03:45 PM   #19
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fridges have 12v option so you can use converter when plugged in to 110v campground. for a long time options were 12v and propane only, 110v came along after
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But fridges now have 12V, 110 and propane. So maybe long time ago your idea is right but in the last 15 years at least that is how they come. So why 12V now? If you are hooked to electric you run on 110V. I think if you run on 12V while hooked to electric your battery will run down. The battery charge does not keep up with the drain it gets from the fridge. I've never tried it but charging the battery while plugged in to electric is a slow process.
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Old 11-11-2018, 04:39 PM   #20
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But fridges now have 12V, 110 and propane. So maybe long time ago your idea is right but in the last 15 years at least that is how they come. So why 12V now? If you are hooked to electric you run on 110V. I think if you run on 12V while hooked to electric your battery will run down. The battery charge does not keep up with the drain it gets from the fridge. I've never tried it but charging the battery while plugged in to electric is a slow process.
hmm? your Casita power converter should be 35 amps or something, of which about 20 amps is available to charge the battery... that should fully charge a 50% discharged group 27M battery in like 5-6 hours or something.

and that 35A converter should have MORE than enough power to run the fridge on DC.
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Old 11-11-2018, 04:53 PM   #21
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Why use 12v if you have 120v?
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Old 11-11-2018, 05:05 PM   #22
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With a 6amp 12V stock converter on my 77 Trillium, I can only imagine trying to run the refrigerator on 12V. And since the interior lights are all 12 V, there is already a deficit in 12V capacity. And yes, its the original 3 way refrigerator (and did not come with a battery). So I would say 3 way makes zero sense. Maybe they got a deal on the refrigerators?
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Old 11-12-2018, 10:31 PM   #23
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hmm? your Casita power converter should be 35 amps or something, of which about 20 amps is available to charge the battery... that should fully charge a 50% discharged group 27M battery in like 5-6 hours or something.

and that 35A converter should have MORE than enough power to run the fridge on DC.
Like I said I've never tried running the fridge on 12V while plugged into electric since it didn't seem to make sense to do it. If your numbers are correct then a person should be able to run the fridge on 12V while plugged into shore power. But if it take 5-6 hours to charge the battery up or more that is a long time. If there is another 12V draw then it would take longer or possibly not charge fully would it. I don't know much about electric but it just makes sense to me for this to happen.
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Old 11-16-2018, 09:52 AM   #24
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I've only used my fridge on 12v a few times while towing, and though it never ran the battery down, it never really kept the fridge cold either. If I'm driving many hours in hot weather, I'll let it run on propane. Another thing you could do is keep small bottles of water in the freezer compartment, the frozen bottles should keep the fridge cold assuming you don't open it much during your drive. If/when I ever replace the fridge, I'll get a 2-way, there's really no point in the 12v part.
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Old 11-18-2018, 07:49 PM   #25
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Upstate, we towed our 17' Casita all over the country several times, including Alaska, and I can tell you from experience that you will never get it to charge the battery adequately while towing with the fridge on 12V. I say that after virtually heroic efforts to eliminate as much voltage drop as possible. I paralleled the original wiring with a second #10 wire and that didn't help. Then I paralleled all that with a #8. Still no deal. The only way you can keep the house battery charged is tow on propane. Yeah, I know that blasted thing keeps blowing out. Among all the other drawbacks to the 3-way fridge.



Finally, I yanked the absorbtion fridge out and replaced it with a Nova Kool 5810 12V compressor driven fridge. End of problem, absolutely the best thing I ever did to the trailer. Disclaimer: We don't boondock except an occasional overnite at a Wal Mart or similar. I installed an auxillary battery "just in case", but have not yet used it.


I’m having the same problems too. The absorption fridge won’t run on 12V and blows out on propane. I looked up the Nova Kool fridge and am thinking of taking my absorption fridge out. My question is how did you get it in the Casita, through the door or the window?
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