Converter and smart charger

[Keene Anderson]

I have this converter in my Bigfoot but would like to charge my battery via a smart charger because I believe it will be better for the long term health of my battery.

Is this true? Can I 'turn off' the charger in the converter?

[Thomas G.]

I think the short answer is yes, but you'd need to create a wiring schematic to decide where to put a switch.

If your fuses are separate form the converter, I'd just replace the old converter with a smart converter like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Progressive-...0942c8&vxp=mtr

[Steve L.]

In the Casita the converter is already on a circuit breaker so you can turn off the charger at its breaker. However, there are other loads that share the charger circuit so shutting off the charger also shuts off the AC receptacle back by the television. Maybe more stuff I haven't specifically looked for.

You should be able to shut it off. If there is a switch/breaker already there I'm just observing that there may be more than the converter in the loop. If you're putting in a switch then as suggested you should plan a bit before proceding so you can shut down only what you want.

[Bob Miller]

You may have to have an internal schematic to figure out how to disable the built in charging circuit on what you have. Some converters use both blocking diodes and a change-over relay to accomplish isolating the circuits from each other.

I suspect that it would entail inserting a blocking diode somewhere in the internal wiring, and even that may not protect the add-on charger from damage from the converter itself..

Also remember, if you also have a charging line from the TV, that will also have to be taken into account.

The PD-9245 is an excellent converter/charger, but that's is all it is, a DC converter and a battery charger.

For not to many $$$ more you can install a Progressive Dynamics PD-4045 Power Center and replace all the old stuff with modern components, get lots more capacity for both ac & dc needs as well as get a smart charger. Fairly easy to install and once done, nothing to worry about doing to change anything over.

[Keene Anderson]

Thanks a lot guys, I appreciate all the info. I have my research to do now but really like the idea of the PD-4045 and not having to worry about anything. I think I will end up going this route or one very similar for the longer term plan.

In the meantime, is there a problem with me removing the battery and running my 12V system off the Converter (when plugged in at home) or is the battery required in the system for it to work? It would definitely take more work but for the short term I could disconnect the battery and charge with my battery tender and just reconnect it when i'm off the grid. Essentially I would only be using the converter to convert 110V to 12v with the sacrifice being unfiltered DC.

[David Tilston]

Unfiltered DC is OK for lights, maybe even a fan, since a fan is basically an inductive load, and therefor a filter of sorts. Sensitive electronics, like the power supply on some lap tops, may be damaged by the AC ripple.

I run my 120VAC to 12VDC converter, with out a battery, for lights.

[Thomas G.]

Originally Posted by Keene Anderson

Thanks a lot guys, I appreciate all the info. I have my research to do now but really like the idea of the PD-4045 and not having to worry about anything. I think I will end up going this route or one very similar for the longer term plan........

If you have separate boxes for the AC breakers and DC fuses, it would be easier just to replace the converter as shown in my link. If you need to replace the breaker box and fuses holder, then the PD 4045 would be the easier retrofit.

[Bob Miller]

First... Many converters depend on a battery being in the circuit to act as a filter to smooth out pulses from the ac line. This won't hurt lights, but might not be kind to motors and electronics, Televisions, etc.

The PD-4045 is somewhat unique. There are "Cheaper" units available, but none better or more reliable. Try Frank Bear at teardroptrailerparts.com. He has the best prices, but you may have to call for a quote on the PD-4045 as it may not be in his catalog. I have bought at least 5 from him.

[Keene Anderson]

Originally Posted by David Tilston

Unfiltered DC is OK for lights, maybe even a fan, since a fan is basically an inductive load, and therefor a filter of sorts. Sensitive electronics, like the power supply on some lap tops, may be damaged by the AC ripple.

I run my 120VAC to 12VDC converter, with out a battery, for lights.

Thats great, thanks for the clarity! I think I have found my short term solution and will be moving my battery to the garage and near the smart charger until the first trip out.

Originally Posted by Thomas G.

If you have separate boxes for the AC breakers and DC fuses, it would be easier just to replace the converter as shown in my link. If you need to replace the breaker box and fuses holder, then the PD 4045 would be the easier retrofit.

Thanks Thomas G. I thought about your post and I may be wrong but am pretty sure that the breakers and fuses are included within the converter I have. I will make sure prior to making a purchase though. Thanks again!

[Keene Anderson]

Originally Posted by Bob Miller

First... Many converters depend on a battery being in the circuit to act as a filter to smooth out pulses from the ac line. This won't hurt lights, but might not be kind to motors and electronics, Televisions, etc.

The PD-4045 is somewhat unique. There are "Cheaper" units available, but none better or more reliable. Try Frank Bear at teardroptrailerparts.com. He has the best prices, but you may have to call for a quote on the PD-4045 as it may not be in his catalog. I have bought at least 5 from him.

Thanks Bob, I will be cautious of this. Aside from the lights the only things that I was intending on running would be the blower on the furnace and the water pump. Should I avoid doing this without the battery connected or is the concern more towards units that weren't necessarily designed for RV's.

In my brief research, I found prices for a PD-4045 quite reasonable but cheaper is always better. I figure the extended life of my battery will result in me not having to replace it as soon and therefore offset some of the cost of the unit.

[Thomas G.]

Originally Posted by Keene Anderson

.......the only things that I was intending on running would be the blower on the furnace and the water pump.......

The furnace likely has electronics inside. The current converter isn't going to hurt the battery unless you leave it plugged in for long periods of time, though I agree that it is a good idea to replace it.