converter / inverter??? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-15-2014, 02:06 PM   #15
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Yep and, at that, I think you have to be north of the Arctic circle to get that 24 hours of sun for a few weeks in the summer LOL.....
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Old 09-15-2014, 03:06 PM   #16
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If you happen to find a good deal on a 12 volt fridge don't forget while it might only run a day or two on a battery and take a larger solar panel to insure the battery remains fully charged you don't have to have the battery fully charged if you generally don't camp for long periods of time.

If a smaller solar panel allows your battery to lose 10% of it's charge per day that still allows 5 days before you hit the 50% battery charge threshold you should not go below. Risk is rainy or very cloudy days where smaller solar panel allows battery charge to drop faster than anticipated and next sunny day you can't make up the loss with the smaller panel.
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Old 09-15-2014, 03:46 PM   #17
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Thanks all for the good advise. At this time I plan to install a dorm fridge for times I have shore power or a generator. When I am off line I will use the fridge as a ice box. I am not using a 3way fridge due to not having on board propane. I am going 100% elect.
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Old 09-23-2014, 02:11 PM   #18
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We run an electric 2.7CF (dorm) electric refrigerator. We use a 2000w Xantrex Prowatt pure sine inverter drawing from two East Penn group 24 gel batteries. We also have a 15amp automatic transfer relay.

The two batteries are dedicated to only the inverter and we have two more East Penn group 24 gel batteries for other loads.

The batteries require a 2 to 3 hour charge daily. The inverter batteries are charged from a VEC1093DBD 40 amp charger. The 2 other batteries are charged by the WFCO 8725P converter and both are powered by a Champion 2000w inverter generator.

If driving the batteries are charged by the tow vehicle.

The refrigerator draws between .35 and .5 amps ac while running but once cold it runs less than 15 minutes per hour.

We can dry camp almost indefinitely this way providing the generator has fuel. If not running the air conditioner we use about one gallon of gas per week.

After dealing with an erratic absorption refrigerator that occasionally spoiled our food it is nice to have a reliable refrigerator that holds a steady 34 -36 degree temperature all day and night.
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Old 09-23-2014, 02:51 PM   #19
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Something tells me that all of the above is in your Warrior Toyhauler and not the Aliner.....

I'd think that adding 3 more batteries to the Aliner or to most of the FGRV's hereabouts, would be an interesting trick both for space and weight.

But so that others reading this don't see absorbtion refrigerators as being erratic and/or unreliable, may I point out that the Original Dometic 23 in my 1973 Hunter was it's original, 40+ y.o. refrigerator and it still ran on LP or 120VAC without problem, both when camping and towing, and is now living it's 2nd life in a restored canned ham.

The 10 year old Dometic RM2193 that replaced it (due to better food storage layout) has yet to let us down in the past year, including many recent outings in SoCals recent 100 degree+ heatwave.

So, while lots see the dorm refrigerator as an alternative, there is no need to go that route if reliability is the concern. A properly set-up and maintained absorbtion refrigerator will last a very long time, certainly longer that that generator and battery set, and probably longer than most dorm type refrigerators.
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Old 09-23-2014, 03:47 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beemerphile1 View Post
<cut> We use a 2000w Xantrex Prowatt pure sine inverter drawing from two East Penn group 24 gel batteries. We also have a 15amp automatic transfer relay.

The two batteries are dedicated to only the inverter and we have two more East Penn group 24 gel batteries for other loads.


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Dang correct me if I am wrong but those 4 batteries you are hauling around must weigh over 200lbs combined????
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Old 09-23-2014, 03:56 PM   #21
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Me thinks his battery bank lives in the Toy hauler, and therein lies the danger in posting non-FGRV solutions to FGRV problems.

But, as I mentioned in my previous post (#19) the alleged LP refrigerator problem, doesn't really have to be a problem.
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Old 09-24-2014, 08:48 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Bob Miller View Post
Something tells me that all of the above is in your Warrior Toyhauler and not the Aliner....

while lots see the dorm refrigerator as an alternative, there is no need to go that route if reliability is the concern. A properly set-up and maintained absorbtion refrigerator will last a very long time, certainly longer that that generator and battery set, and probably longer than most dorm type refrigerators.

Installation is for the Aliner.

The biggest issue with absorption refrigerators is the installation. There is only so much that can be done to correct a bad installation. I have installed baffles and fans but still had unreliable cooling. In pop ups or RVs with slide installed refrigerators it is a common issue.

When a absorption refrigerator is correctly installed with a lower vent and a roof vent, they can work very well.

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Originally Posted by Carol H View Post
Dang correct me if I am wrong but those 4 batteries you are hauling around must weigh over 200lbs combined?
Yes, about 300 pounds.

On the other hand I can operate the refrigerator, microwave, and even the 5,000 BTU air conditioning on a rare occasion from the batteries/inverter. I am in the experimental stages right now designing and building the system. So far the refrigerator on inverter is working great. We just spent 9 nights in the woods without power.

Soon I will be purchasing and setting up my retirement rig which will also have solar to replenish the battery bank. My goal is to camp for extended periods in remote areas without utility connections. My retirement rig just may be a Bigfoot fiberglass trailer.

The purpose of my post is that creativity and some $$$ will allow a person to step outside the norm and not necessarily be limited to the original equipment. There were some previous comments about operating a dorm refrigerator and my rig is proof that it can be done.
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Old 09-24-2014, 09:30 AM   #23
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Quote: "When a absorption refrigerator is correctly installed with a lower vent and a roof vent, they can work very well."


Per my post #19, while correct installation is always important, both of the Dometic refrigerators installed in my Hunter Compact-II work fine, one for over 40 years, without a roof vent. Perhaps the problem you mentioned is more common with particular brands or models.

And don't think that you will find anyone that will argue that any problem can be fixed, if you can throw "some $$$" at it.

Nine days without power? But that included using the generator, right? Generator = Power.
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Old 09-24-2014, 09:51 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by beemerphile1 View Post
There were some previous comments about operating a dorm refrigerator and my rig is proof that it can be done.
And that is exactly the type of information that is valuable to those thinking about things and I appreciate you posting it. To save money and get camping I installed a dorm fridge (that I already had) to replace the non-functioning three-way in my old Scamp. So far we have only camped where there is 120V so it is not an issue but I would like to boondock for a few days and being able to run the dorm fridge off a suitably sized inverter would be nice. I do have plans to install a 12v compressor refrigerator but it will be the first of the year before that can happen. The solar panels, controller (2X 100W, MPPT), and batteries are this year's purchases.
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