Converter Location In Boler? - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-15-2012, 12:21 PM   #1
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Name: Shawn
Trailer: 1974 Boler
Manitoba
Posts: 39
Converter Location In Boler?

Hello All,

I recently purchased progressive dynamics converter for my Boler. I have a 1974 that didn't come with a factory converter. I've been trying to decide where to install this new converter. I've gone over all the wiring diagrams etc and even purchased a book on RV electrical systems. I know the converter will need to vent. It will also need to have an outlet near by. Its generally better to have a sort run of wire to the battery with a minimum of 8 gauge. I also have a fuse box to install and a circuit breaker (20amp).

I've toyed with the idea of installing it where my furnace use to be. I have a furnace housing, but it doesn't have any of the inner workings so I plan to remove it. The problem with this location (aside from the fact the it would be very cramped and really lacks a lot of flat surface area for the install) is that it is directly underneath the sink etc. I really don't want to ruin my new converter, or electrocute myself, if I have a leak in the plumbing.

I'd like to install the system under the dinette on the drivers side, but I don't really like the idea of sleeping over the converter....I also need to run an outlet to plug my fridge into so I'm now thinking that I will install the converter underneath the bench seat at the front of the Boler. This would allow me to run an outlet to that area that can also be used by the three way fridge.
(Where was the fridge originally suppose to plug in anyway?)

This location also is close to the new Delta Aluminum Box that I recently installed. This is where I'll have the battery(s).


So here are the questions that I have so far that I hope you can assist me with.
  1. Do you think there will be enough ventilation in this location? My bench seat is split into two compartments with a small cabinet in between. (I'm assuming this cabinet is original? Maybe for a porta potty?)
  2. Can the fridge and the converter share an outlet without issues?
  3. Should my Boler have a breaker box somewhere? Currently the 110 goes directly into a box and is distributed for the overhead light and 2 outlets, but there is not original breaker. I plan to run a fantastik fan (yet to be installed, but will need to be pre-wired as part of this process), 2 new LED light fixtures (one on each side of the cabinets), a CO2 / LP detector, a 12V socket charger for my ipod etc, and a porch light.
  4. Where do I ground the converter with the new system?
  5. Should each of the items be on a different fuse in the fuse box? I don't think any of them will have a huge draw, but I have room in the fuse box so I had planned to put them all on different circuits.
Anyway sorry for the long post. I've been thinking about this a lot. 12V power is becoming a bit of an obsession


I've attached a few pics. The Boler layout is pretty standard. Has anyone else located a converter under the front bench?


Cheers,
Shawn
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Old 06-15-2012, 12:40 PM   #2
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Trailer: 1973 Hunter Compact II
California
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Did you get an entire power chassis, such as a PD-4045 or a 4065 or just a DC power supply and 3 stage battery charger? If the latter, as it appears your current rig has little, if any, AC or DC circuit protection, that could be taken care of at the same time if you install an entire chassis. They are about $150 on eBay. If so, I suggest that you look into swapping it back and get an entire power chassis. I have installed 6 of these in trailers and motorhomes and they are easy to install and very reliable.
Let us know what you have....
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Old 06-15-2012, 02:43 PM   #3
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Name: Shawn
Trailer: 1974 Boler
Manitoba
Posts: 39
Hi Bob,

Thanks for your reply. I have the PD9245. I got it from Vintage Trailer Supply with a separate fuse box etc. Ended up costing more too....grr
I don't think I'll be able to swap for the all-in-one unit though.
I had this shipped to a family member and they are bringing it up to Canada for me so a return would be difficult I do like the compact all-in-one style though. Puts everything in one place. I didn't know about that unit when I ordered mine. I checked for the PD9245 model locally and was told I could get one here in Winnipeg for $298.00....that's why I ended up ordering it from VTS.
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Old 06-15-2012, 11:00 PM   #4
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Iowa
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I don't see an issue with putting it in the front, mine doesn't have the section out like yours - and my PD4045 was just too tall to put under the bench seat. I have my battery on the tongue so preferred a shorter run from the battery to the converter - so I tried to put it up there. Ended up putting it under the sink area - as you mentioned considering - I just built a shelf in there to set/fasten everything on flat. I didn't like the idea of the water being over the electrical, but had little other option... one thing I like tho is the easy access and ability to easily see it all.
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Old 06-15-2012, 11:35 PM   #5
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Hi Shawn
I see your problem. I also bought a 9245 and a 20 station fuse box from Vintek for a customer that wanted to keep the original converter box and A/C breakers. It's a good unit, but be sure to provide ventilation and, once plugged in, just leave the pendant alone, it really only tells you the charge rate, float, high or desulfate. I would try to give it it's own breaker though.
Good Luck
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Old 06-16-2012, 11:10 AM   #6
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Trailer: 1974 Boler
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More Questions

Thanks for your replies.

I think I'm going to try locating this in the porta potty box...
I'm going to make a new door for it (so I can save the original)
then I'll put a vent in the door for air flow.

I think I have the general Idea when it comes to wiring it together, but ran into a couple questions. I've attached the wiring diagram.

I just want to make sure that I understand fully how this is going to work.

Can I hook the incoming POS battery cable to any of the three DC POS inputs on the fuse box (the arrow points to all three)? I planned run the battery POS to the left connection, leave the center empty, then go out from the box to the converter using the POS input on the right side. It says all three are electrically connected so I assumed that would be ok?

I have a chassis ground using 8G wire for the Converter. Do I need something similar for the NEG post on the battery? It looks to also be grounded in the diagram.

The converter is essentially charging the battery through the fuse panel correct? No other connections are needed?

One last question. When connecting lights etc to the panel I run the positive line to the appropriately labeled (and fused) terminal then run the Negative / ground to the ground terminal bus right? I only have 4 ground terminal bus connectors on my fuse panel so I'm assuming that doubling up grounds on a single pin is ok?

Thanks Again,
Shawn
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Old 06-16-2012, 11:26 AM   #7
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You're off to a good start. Notice that there has to be a circuit breaker between the battery and the fuse box and that the battery connection/charging line does not go "through" the fuse box, it just uses it for a connecting point.
I always set up duplicate grounds, one from the battery to the chassis and a 2nd one directly to the power supply (as shown). This assures that the charger gets an accurate voltage sensing and doesn't overcharge the battery.
Multiple grounds on a terminal are OK, just be sure that they are all tight.
Good luck
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Old 06-16-2012, 12:10 PM   #8
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Name: Shawn
Trailer: 1974 Boler
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Hi Bob,

Thanks for the info. I do have a circuit breaker that I got with the panel.
It's 50amps though. Seems a bit high maybe? I also have a rubber cover for it. I plan to mount it just inside the trailer then run the connection out to the battery. The distance will be about 18-24 inches I would think.

Can all the chassis grounds be connected in the same place?
I had to drill a ground when I rewired my trailer lights so I have a white ground wire from my trailer lighting screwed to the tongue of the boler.
Its not that far away from the converter or the battery so they could all ground there.

The converter instructions say Caution Risk of Fire "Chassis bonding wire must be a separate wire ran directly from the grounding lug provided on the converter DO NOT connect output Negative to chassis using the same wire.

This has me wondering if using the same ground point would cause an issue?

Thanks Again

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Miller View Post
You're off to a good start. Notice that there has to be a circuit breaker between the battery and the fuse box and that the battery connection/charging line does not go "through" the fuse box, it just uses it for a connecting point.
I always set up duplicate grounds, one from the battery to the chassis and a 2nd one directly to the power supply (as shown). This assures that the charger gets an accurate voltage sensing and doesn't overcharge the battery.
Multiple grounds on a terminal are OK, just be sure that they are all tight.
Good luck
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Old 06-16-2012, 12:17 PM   #9
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You need the 50 amp circuit breaker because the power supply is capable of charging almost that high if the battery is real low. Run separate wires for the grounds, but run a wire from the battery to the ground lug or to the (-) post on the power supply. The risk is if you have a loose ground connection between the power supply and the battery it will sense a lower voltage and try to charge at maximum output. There is some resistance in the frame ground, especially if there are two connections. It's all about charging and 14.5 volt desulfating cycle control.
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Old 06-16-2012, 12:32 PM   #10
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Trailer: 1974 Boler
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Perfect. Makes sense on the 50amp breaker.

So I'll run a chassis ground from the converter ground lug to the frame, but then I should run a separate wire from the - post on the battery directly to the negative post on the converter? Is that what they are indicating in the diagram (blue arrow) when they suggest a ground from the battery?

I also will have a negative going into the fuse panel then from the fuse panel to the negative post on the converter like in the wiring diagram.
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Old 06-16-2012, 02:11 PM   #11
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You can never have to many GOOD grounds.
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