Deep cycle battery maintenance? - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-26-2013, 10:44 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by rick.a View Post
I have an 84, 13' Burro with a simple 12V system. 24 Series lead acid battery on the tongue, no installed charger or converter. charging is done with an external 10 amp "Deep Cycle Battery Charger" (a 20 year old beast, but works nicely as long as I keep track of it when charging).

The 12V devices are: 3 interior LED lights, each with a PWM dimmer, Surflo water pump, Fantastic Fan. I installed all of this within the last year.

Recently when re-installing the battery in the Burro after charging, (sometimes I use the battery in my fishing boat with trolling motor), I noticed a small spark when attaching the second cable. This indicates a power draw somewhere. What do you thing it might be? The water pump has a separate downstream kill switch which is normally off. Do you think that the dimmers on the LED lights draw a little current all the time? One of the dimmers is a more expensive one with a positive click in the off position. The other 2 are cheapos with no click off. I suspect these.

Is there an easy way to test for current draw? Total draw at the battery position, and draw at the dimmer, to confirm that this is the culprit?

Rick.
Hook up your battery with all loads removed and attach one at a time to see where the short or current draw is.
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Old 08-26-2013, 10:58 PM   #30
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I added an in line fuse to the positive lead to let me disconnect away from the battery. It also stops the drain when not using the trailer.
Good idea. Even easier is to just flip a switch: high current battery disconnect switches (such as this Keyed Battery Master Cut-Off Switch | Princess Auto that I just bought) are as little as less than $10 for modestly sized systems.
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Old 08-26-2013, 11:45 PM   #31
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Do you have a propane detector. That's what causes the spark on mine. I added an in line fuse to the positive lead to let me disconnect away from the battery. It also stops the drain when not using the trailer. Raz
Raz,
I think it's a better idea to have the disconnect, whether fuse or switch outside the trailer. I'm not sure where you're located yours.
Reason .. in the unlikely event that propane has leaked inside the trailer a very little spark will set it off. With an outside cutoff you can turn on the battery and wait a few minutes for the propane detector to rest and alarm if there's propane present. I believe that's the reason the instructions with the RV propane detector wants it connected full time.

Even though the propane detector only draws between 20 and 40 miliAmps it'll spark when the battery connection connected or removed.
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Old 08-27-2013, 06:51 AM   #32
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I put a 50 amp marine circuit breaker inline when I wired mine, it's rated for switch use.

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Old 08-27-2013, 07:01 AM   #33
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Old 08-29-2013, 09:28 AM   #34
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OK, thanks for the ideas. I do have an external fuse near the battery and I also have a switchable breaker left over from my old boat that I can use instead. Then I can simply switch the whole thing off when not in use and not worry about the small current draw.

Rick.
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