Deleting a 110V Line - Fiberglass RV
Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 03-25-2017, 03:10 PM   #1
Junior Member
 
Name: Adam
Trailer: 1988 Scamp 13'
Colorado
Posts: 8
Deleting a 110V Line

Please excuse my ignorance on all things electrical. I took out the fluorescent light from my 1988 Scamp and am replacing it with a double dome light off of the 12V line. I no longer need the 110V line that was connected to the fluorescent light so I'm going to tuck it back into the carpet and put the backsplash over it. I would like to unhook this line from the panel so it won't have power going to it so I don't have to worry about it. Can I just unhook the wires from the panel and leave those spaces empty? Here are some pics, thanks for any advice!


mnimz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2017, 05:33 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
John in Michigan's Avatar
 
Name: John
Trailer: 1979 Boler 1700
Michigan
Posts: 2,048
Registry
Certainly disconnect the 110vac wire at the source. Much more desirable to remove the wire.
John in Michigan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2017, 05:43 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
Posts: 5,155
Pics not showing.. this is the second time I have seen that happen today, although other threads show the photos fine. Don't know why.
gordon2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2017, 06:41 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
Trailer: 2002 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 3,640
Send a message via Yahoo to Darwin Maring
When you disconnect it from the pannel, be sure to put a tag on it stating where it goes and how to find the other end.
Darwin Maring is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2017, 07:28 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
Name: Steve
Trailer: 2018, 21ft escape— 2019 Ram 1500 Laramie
NW Wisconsin
Posts: 4,500
Quote:
Originally Posted by mnimz View Post
Please excuse my ignorance on all things electrical. I took out the fluorescent light from my 1988 Scamp and am replacing it with a double dome light off of the 12V line. I no longer need the 110V line that was connected to the fluorescent light so I'm going to tuck it back into the carpet and put the backsplash over it. I would like to unhook this line from the panel so it won't have power going to it so I don't have to worry about it. Can I just unhook the wires from the panel and leave those spaces empty? Here are some pics, thanks for any advice!


The wiring to the light fixture should not be just shoved back into the wall or concealed . The wires should be run into a junction box , the exposed ends insulated and the wires and junction box should be labeled or tagged. The NEC has rules governing abandoned wiring . The wiring should be removed back to the next junction point or back to the source ( breaker panel) but in your case you may not have that option , so you need to make sure the abandoned wiring is safe.
steve dunham is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2017, 07:12 AM   #6
Junior Member
 
Name: Adam
Trailer: 1988 Scamp 13'
Colorado
Posts: 8
Thank you

Thank you for the replies, let me try the pics again. I tried to remove the wires from behind the rat fur but they are really stuck back there. Interestingly enough, there is an another abandoned 110 V (not hooked up) to line right next to the one that is hot. To completely pull the lines I would have to do some surgery to the rat fur.

I agree with wanting to make the abandoned wires safe, that is why I want to completely remove them from the panel and not have any current going to them. Looking at the pics below, can I just disconnect all the wires and leave the spaces empty in the panel?


mnimz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2017, 06:28 AM   #7
Junior Member
 
Name: Adam
Trailer: 1988 Scamp 13'
Colorado
Posts: 8
Anyone? Can I just unhook these three wires from the panel and leave these spots open? Thanks!
mnimz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2017, 06:51 AM   #8
Senior Member
 
C&G in FL's Avatar
 
Name: Carl
Trailer: 2015 Escape 5.0TA
Florida
Posts: 1,689
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by mnimz View Post
Anyone? Can I just unhook these three wires from the panel and leave these spots open? Thanks!
Yes. But move the wires in some way to keep them away from anything that might be energized, or tape over the conductors very well using standard electrical tape. You don't want them to come into contact in any way with the busses in the panel.
C&G in FL is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2017, 06:52 AM   #9
Senior Member
 
Name: Steve
Trailer: 2018, 21ft escape— 2019 Ram 1500 Laramie
NW Wisconsin
Posts: 4,500
Quote:
Originally Posted by mnimz View Post
Anyone? Can I just unhook these three wires from the panel and leave these spots open? Thanks!
Sure ,at the panel disconnect the hot , neutral , and ground wires , label / tag the cable , and tape off the exposed ends. The same applies to the load end of cable.

**If you wish to comply with the NEC ? , then the abandoned cable should be removed entirely or at least removed from the breaker panel and the KO sealed. **
steve dunham is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2017, 07:34 AM   #10
Senior Member
 
Name: Dale
Trailer: 2010 EggCamper; 2002 Highlander 3.0L; 2017 Escape 21'; 2016 F-150 5.0L Fx4
Colorado
Posts: 746
Kind of related - my brother-in-law was doing some work in the attic of their older house (1930's?) that they had lived in for over years. He pulled back some attic insulation and discovered the cut end of an old BUT STILL LIVE 120V wire with nothing shielding the exposed wires at the cut end! No idea why that wire was even there, likely from some previous owner's DIY remodeling job. Very lucky it never caused a house fire or shocked him when he was rousting about up there. Take-home message: if not in use - remove it - and save someone else a startle when they discover it down the road.
War Eagle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2017, 07:46 AM   #11
Senior Member
 
Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
Posts: 5,155
Quote:
Originally Posted by War Eagle View Post
... Take-home message: if not in use - remove it - and save someone else a startle when they discover it down the road.
Quote:
Originally Posted by steve dunham View Post
...
**If you wish to comply with the NEC ? , then the abandoned cable should be removed entirely or at least removed from the breaker panel and the KO sealed. **
Unless the run is very short (maybe a foot or so), removing any wiring that is under the ratfur is not really practical - it will be at best very difficult.

I can't see your photo and I have a policy to not offer advice on wiring that I cannot see (usually in person).

But if the wire is removed at the "source" (panel?) and cut back to a safe place, and then any knock out (KO) in the panel that was used for that wire sealed properly, then I would for one sleep soundly in the rig.

Of course make sure all power is disconnected when working on things.. no shore power, no battery hooked up. Nothing (even including the tug and a break away switch battery if you have one). Yes, the battery could maybe stay online but if you are not 100% sure you know what you are doing, then don't take that chance.

Always a good idea to label the wire if you can for future reference.
gordon2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2017, 08:16 AM   #12
Senior Member
 
Name: Dale
Trailer: 2010 EggCamper; 2002 Highlander 3.0L; 2017 Escape 21'; 2016 F-150 5.0L Fx4
Colorado
Posts: 746
Okay, full disclosure "do as I say, not as I do" confession. We have a pair of heavy wires (10 ga?) running from front to back of our camper that a previous owner used to power two CPAP machines directly from three batteries mounted on the tongue for boondocking. We don't use those wires, but I have not removed them because it would be a pain, and some day, we or some future owner might want to use them again. So I simply disconnected them from the batteries on the front, and I capped the exposed wires with twist-on wire connectors then over-sealed them with electricians tape at the back. We feel safe....
War Eagle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2017, 08:35 AM   #13
Junior Member
 
Name: Adam
Trailer: 1988 Scamp 13'
Colorado
Posts: 8
Thanks again

Quote:
Originally Posted by gordon2 View Post
Unless the run is very short (maybe a foot or so), removing any wiring that is under the ratfur is not really practical - it will be at best very difficult.

any knock out (KO) in the panel that was used for that wire sealed properly.

Thanks for the advice everyone! Yeah, the run is about 3 feet and I'd really have to go digging to get that wire out. I'd rather not if possible.

Just wondering, how exactly would one seal a knock out in a panel?

The guy at Scamp said sometimes they turn this line into another 110V outlet above the sink. I wonder if this would be easier.
mnimz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2017, 09:06 AM   #14
Senior Member
 
Name: Steve
Trailer: 2018, 21ft escape— 2019 Ram 1500 Laramie
NW Wisconsin
Posts: 4,500
Quote:
Originally Posted by mnimz View Post
Thanks for the advice everyone! Yeah, the run is about 3 feet and I'd really have to go digging to get that wire out. I'd rather not if possible.

Just wondering, how exactly would one seal a knock out in a panel?

The guy at Scamp said sometimes they turn this line into another 110V outlet above the sink. I wonder if this would be easier.
With a KO seal . If it is a metal KO seal , push it into the hole and bend the tabs over so wires don't rub on the sharp edges .
Better still get a plastic KO seal.
You can find them at any home improvement store.
Make sure the KO seal is the same size as the knockout.
Most likely you will need a 1/2" KO seal which in reality is for a 7/8" hole . A 1/2 knockout punch punches a 7/8" hole.
A 3/4 knockout punch punches a 1 1/8" hole .
A 1" knockout punch punches a 1 3/8" hole
In other words a 1/2" KO seal does not measure a 1/2"

Identify the abandoned NM ( Romex) cable jacket with a black permanent Sharpie marker on both ends of the cable.
If you are going to insulate the ends of the wire with tape then fold the end of the wire over and then tape. Sometimes if you just tape the plain end , the tape will come off as the tape ages or the sharp end of the wire will cut through the tape.
steve dunham is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-28-2017, 03:04 PM   #15
Junior Member
 
Name: Adam
Trailer: 1988 Scamp 13'
Colorado
Posts: 8
Update

Just wanted to post an update on the 110V line. I managed to pull the entire line out with a bit of muscle work and I unhooked all the wires from the panel. Also, I put in a knockout plug as was suggested to seal the hole in the panel. There was another 110 V line going to the fluorescent light that was fiberglassed into the shell, that one is staying. However, I cut it back so it isn't even close to the panel. Everything works as it should and I'm happy with the results. Thanks everyone for the help!
mnimz is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Deleting an ad and email alan H General Chat 6 11-01-2015 11:00 PM
deleting classified Tonnie Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 4 10-03-2015 09:26 AM
rubber line vs metal line CarmichaelBee Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 3 07-08-2015 10:50 PM
Deleting a post... Doug Mager Forum Admin, News & Announcements 3 03-26-2007 05:28 AM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:13 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.