Diodes, Dudes! - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 01-12-2006, 06:08 PM   #15
Senior Member
 
Trailer: 84 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 725
In a ideal situation, the tow vehicle would be equipped with dual alternators; one for the tow vehicle and another for the trailer. The one for the trailer would have a large gauge charging wire and a separate sense wire. The use of a separate sense wire would eliminate sensing the 'voltage drop' in the charge line during high current charging to give a more accurage reading of the voltage at the trailer battery.

Most vehicles aren't available with dual alternators (however I faintly remember that a neighbor's Ford PowerStroke did), and I like most live in a less than an ideal world. I tend to go with the Keep It Simple, Stupid! idea unless there is a good reason not to.

So, what I do is just wire the two batteries in parallel. The resistance in the long charging wire to the trailer causes the tow vehicle battery to be charged first, which is great because it is a starting battery vs a deep discharge battery. For short stops I don't disconnect the plug to the trailer. But for longer, especially for overnight in cold situations, I disconnect.

I also have a small 2hp Honda from a lawn edger hooked up to a GM alternator, just in case!
__________________

__________________
Loren G. Hedahl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2006, 10:14 PM   #16
Moderator
 
Gina D.'s Avatar
 
Name: Gina D.
Trailer: '77 Leocraft 17 & Former Burro owner and fan!
West Coast USA
Posts: 9,016
Registry
*sniff sniff. Does someone smell geek in here?*

I am with Byron AND Loren. A relay seems the best way to go if you have to have something, BUT.. I just unplug the trailer. Thats pretty much fool proof, except for the fool that forgets to unplug

I did for one nite on my last trip with no appearant badness. I did not run the Elements battery down, and since I was pluugged into AC, my charger was a goin'. Probably huffing and puffing at keeping 2 batteries up to speed.

Most of my routines and habits when camped would prevent too much damage when boondocking. My routine after leveling is to switch the frige before anything else is started. All else is low draw. If staying more than one nite, I always unhook anyway.

As usual, I also have the back ups. My generator can charge the car battery, or that's what Good Sams is for
__________________

__________________
Gina D. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2006, 10:31 PM   #17
Moderator
 
Gina D.'s Avatar
 
Name: Gina D.
Trailer: '77 Leocraft 17 & Former Burro owner and fan!
West Coast USA
Posts: 9,016
Registry
oh yeah. I am not a dude.

Get over it.
__________________
Gina D. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2006, 10:42 PM   #18
Senior Member
 
Byron Kinnaman's Avatar
 
Name: Byron
Trailer: 2006 Scamp 13' towed with a 2005 Dodge Dakota 4.7l Magnum W/full tow package (over kill)
Oregon
Posts: 6,308
Registry
Quote:
oh yeah. I am not a dude.

Get over it.

I guess he should have added dudettes to subject line.
__________________
Byron & Anne enjoying the everyday Saturday thing.
Byron Kinnaman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2006, 11:13 PM   #19
Senior Member
 
Name: Per
Trailer: 2000 Burro 17 ft Widebody towed by Touareg TDI
Oregon
Posts: 863
Registry
I vote for the simple relay. The audible click when you start the car reminds you that the thing is working, and you can't make a wrong move with it. Senility proof.
__________________
Per Walthinsen is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2006, 12:25 PM   #20
Senior Member
 
Steve L.'s Avatar
 
Name: Steve
Trailer: 2003 Casita 16' SD
Michigan
Posts: 1,690
Registry
As long as it's dude-ette, not dud-ette.

I've read about the isolators and I wasn't unduly impressed. Reading the responses pretty much reinforces my first impressions.

I'm lucky enough to have the relay as part of the Ford towing package so I'm good to go.

I also wanted to reexamine the whole "charging the trailer battery from the tow vehicle" topic. I'm still not persuaded that raw amp-hours are returned to the trailer battery in any volume. Some capacity may be returned but not much.

Loren mentions the dual alternator route. I found that approach on the sites dedicated to the thumpin' radio modifying sites. They often turn to a second alternator and a second battery, usually deep cycle, to keep those menaces to quiet contemplation up and annoying. The approach would work for us as well but I don't think it's particularly cost effective what with chargers and generators and solar panels (and windmill, solar panel, starlight collecting inventions discussed elsewhere).
__________________
Quando omni flunkus, moritati
Steve L. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2006, 02:51 PM   #21
Senior Member
 
Bill Abbay's Avatar
 
Trailer: 2002 21.5 ft Bigfoot / 2003 Chevy Duramax 4x4
California
Posts: 113
Quote:
I also wanted to reexamine the whole "charging the trailer battery from the tow vehicle" topic. I'm still not persuaded that raw amp-hours are returned to the trailer battery in any volume. Some capacity may be returned but not much.
...And that's it in a nutshell. While diode isolators prevent unwanted discharging, they also prevent any sort of proportional charging, as does, for that matter, any direct wired with-or-without-relay system. I've driven 300 miles assuming my 145 amp alternator was charging my trailer battery that was down only 10 or 15 AH from the previous night, only to find it was still down

An intermediate module that senses the condition of both batteries and proportions the alternator output according to discharge state needs to be inserted into the circuit. I think this is the creature.
__________________
Bill Abbay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2006, 02:58 PM   #22
Senior Member
 
Steve L.'s Avatar
 
Name: Steve
Trailer: 2003 Casita 16' SD
Michigan
Posts: 1,690
Registry
That device looks "sweet" as the kids would say.

If I were running the company, that would be among the parts of the world class trailer tow package I would offer. Class III/IV hitch, 7 pin connector (It needs to be far enough away from the receiver to allow use of after market pin locks. Mine isn't.), brake controller, this separator. What else I wonder?
__________________
Quando omni flunkus, moritati
Steve L. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2006, 05:03 PM   #23
Senior Member
 
Name: Darwin
Trailer: 2002 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 3,030
Send a message via Yahoo to Darwin Maring
Just put a small windmill generator on the EGG and let it charge the battery while U R driving.
__________________
Darwin Maring is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2006, 09:02 PM   #24
Senior Member
 
Mike Taylor's Avatar
 
Trailer: Hunter Compact II
Posts: 154
I don't worry about isolators or relays as I never hooked up a charge line to my trailer. I have 3- 15watt solar panels on the roof of trailer going to a solar charge controler and the battery is always full at end of day whether I'm driving or camped boondocked for a week. Theres still room on the roof for a couple more panels if I need more charge power but the controler usually shuts off about mid-day so everything is fine now. Mike
__________________
Mike Taylor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2006, 09:31 PM   #25
Senior Member
 
Brian B-P's Avatar
 
Name: Brian
Trailer: Boler (B1700RGH) 1979
Alberta
Posts: 5,000
Windmill? While we're thinking "out of the box" (and not really seriously)...

The wind thing seems a little indirect to me. Why not power an alternator or two from the trailer wheels, to make power from the towing action without an electrical hookup to the tug - just like the old bicycle headlight generators! Fiber Stream owners could put in four of them for lots of redundancy.
__________________
1979 Boler B1700RGH, pulled by 2004 Toyota Sienna LE 2WD
Information is good. Lack of information is not so good, but misinformation is much worse. Check facts, and apply common sense liberally.
STATUS: No longer active in forum.
Brian B-P is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2006, 09:00 AM   #26
Senior Member
 
Name: Darwin
Trailer: 2002 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 3,030
Send a message via Yahoo to Darwin Maring
The wheel thing would work really well and put out more power.
Windmills are readily available because they use them on sailboats.

Just think, put a solar collector, windmill, water wheel, and wheel generator on the thing and you would have power rain or shine, day or night.

Weld the front end of a front wheel drive electric car to the front of the EGG and have a completely self contained, green, camper able to go anywhere at a moment's notice.
__________________
Darwin Maring is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2006, 09:45 AM   #27
Member
 
Rob S.'s Avatar
 
Name: Rob
Trailer: 1980 Bolar 1700
Massachusetts
Posts: 92
At one pint before I tore my trailer apart for resoration and I had a different tow vehicle I used a Battery Cut Off Switch. Inside the trailer I just turned the key and I was cut off from the tow vehicle without having to unplug. I seemed to work pretty well and allowed for the occasional tie in to the vehicle battery when amps were low at the end of the trip.
There are many types but this is the one I used. Cost was about $14 US, much cheaper than isolators.
http://store1.yimg.com/I/yhst-953602...69_1849_613774
__________________

__________________
Rob S. is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:06 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.