Electric/Wiring Questions - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 04-26-2013, 06:15 PM   #15
Senior Member
Name: Ryan
Trailer: 1979 Scamp 16- side bath
Posts: 182
I've install some AC wiring and plenty of DC wiring in the past, but never together in a system as large as this one. Although everything in my trailer is now wired up and functioning I want to double check some things as a safe guard.

1. I am using the original breaker AC box as a junction box of sorts. The shore power cord is connected to it (back of trailer under dinette bench). Inside of it I hooked some heavy gauge AC line to that which then runs to the converter (front of the trailer). The repurposed original breaker box is grounded to the frame. I would think that would suffice, right?
As a side note- and this may not be "up to code", I also use the original AC breaker box as a junction for 2 AC outlets--- which are branched off the PD 4045 converter. These outlets are not connected to the shore power cord within the box, besides perhaps the ground. Even If this is not up to code-- is it a bad idea?

2. So it sounds like the AC earth-ground and DC negative can both be connected to the frame with no ill effects- aside from possible corrosion issues. Correct?

3. I was under the impression that the standard way to wire the DC circuits in the trailer was to run both NEG and POS leads to each destination (outlet, light,fan, fridge). On the power source side the POS lead goes to the black number coded wires from the converter. Each of these has corresponding fuse. The NEG lead at the power source can all be run to a common bus bar, which is then connected to the frame at a single point-- if not the frame where else would I connect this common NEG bus bar?
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Old 04-26-2013, 06:58 PM   #16
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Name: Randy
Trailer: 1980Trillium 1300
Posts: 349
Ryan, IMO the item 1 and 2 in your post sound OK to me. If one wants to utilize heavy gauge wires, a standard outlet box wouldn't meet the demand. About ground point, in my case, the frame has a total of 3 points of ground which are bolted to the frame: 2 for DC (front at hitch and rear for external battery) and one for combined both AC and DC(electric brakes, converter, main AC breaker) at the middle of frame. Here is my opinion regarding to issue#3 in your post. Same like you, I do not treat frame as an ideal ground. With critical devices or for precision, I ran both negative and positive wires from battery(or common extra positive terminal) to them (such as break controller, voltmeter to monitor battery voltage). It's hard to explain things when I am only at beginning with project with everything is on..sketch. I would test them all before completion. To me, as long as it WORKS and is safe for other adjacent equipments(water tank, sink, gas stove..) then it sounds good. Hopefully I will post my works in details someday....

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