Electrical Question - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 12-08-2011, 10:17 PM   #29
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I stand by my original recommendation of 10 Ga wire. The original question that I answered asked what size the wire from the battery to the fuse block should be used.

10 gauge chassis wiring can handle 55 amps of power. If the user has a 50 amp converter, (as several people I know have) the load to the battery could be 50 amps for short periods of time. When you're putting new wire in you might as well design for a worse case scenario.

10 Ga stranded wire is not that much more expensive that 12 or 14 Ga., nor more prone to theft. It's not like I recommended 4 Ga. To me, it is easy to work with and the little bit of insurance from a larger wire size is worth it for my peace of mind. Just sayin"!

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Old 12-09-2011, 12:40 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spanke View Post
I stand by my original recommendation of 10 Ga wire. The original question that I answered asked what size the wire from the battery to the fuse block should be used.

10 gauge chassis wiring can handle 55 amps of power. If the user has a 50 amp converter, (as several people I know have) the load to the battery could be 50 amps for short periods of time. When you're putting new wire in you might as well design for a worse case scenario.

10 Ga stranded wire is not that much more expensive that 12 or 14 Ga., nor more prone to theft. It's not like I recommended 4 Ga. To me, it is easy to work with and the little bit of insurance from a larger wire size is worth it for my peace of mind. Just sayin"!

Spanke
If charging the battery with 50 amps is the reason you want 10 awg wire, I think I'd rather have a much smaller wire that will limit the current for a bit. I really don't like loud noises.
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Old 12-09-2011, 02:02 AM   #31
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WOW,,thanks all for the discussion and responses. I will say that my plan for right now as far as the 12v system is to run wire from the battery to a fuse block. From that I plan only to run wires to operate lights inside. To keep the battery charged I was going to hook up a battery tender to it. Figured it could charge the battery while we slept. I do plan on putting the battery on the tongue so we wont have to worry about any fumes from charging. We usually only camp where there are hook-ups (wife preferred). Now in the future I may add a converter to the system but right now I don't see any reason for it.
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Old 12-09-2011, 08:44 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman View Post
If charging the battery with 50 amps is the reason you want 10 awg wire, I think I'd rather have a much smaller wire that will limit the current for a bit. I really don't like loud noises.
If you want smaller wire, I have a bunch of partial boxes of cat5 I'll give you to use! That ought to limit your current.
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Old 12-09-2011, 09:12 AM   #33
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If I were to replace the wires from my battery to the distribution box in my trailer I would use 12ga stranded wire with a 20 amp fuse in an inline holder located about a foot from the positive terminal. Here is why. First I have a single group 24 battery. If everything in my trailer were on at the same time, let's say I have 4 lights that were still incandescent (6A), a fantastic fan on high speed(3A), a furnace fan (4A), and a water pump (2A), I have a total load of 15 A. If one wants to add a danfoss fridge or charge their computer there is still capacity to do so with a 20A. service. Next, the resistance of 10 ft. of 12 ga. wire calculates to 0.016 ohms. At 20A. a voltage drop of about 1/3 volt would occur. If I were to use 14 ga. wire the resistance would be 0.025 ohms and a voltage drop of about 1/2 volt would occur. I agree with Byron, both are insignificant. I would choose 12 ga. wire over 14 ga. wire for mechanical reasons. It will handle the vibrations and wear and tear longer. Can I use 10ga? Sure. But it would be like using a grade 8 bolt where a grade 5 would work.

Now if one wishes to run their microwave, big screen TV, food processor, air conditioner etc. while off grid they will need an inverter to produce a 120Vac 60hz. voltage. The only way to equate AC to DC is through power, i.e. Pac = Pdc. Since power = voltage x current, a lower DC voltage means high DC current and thus a larger gauge wire, more and larger batteries,etc. And with such high currents I would be inclined to continually check all my connections for fear of one loosening and overheating. It just isn't worth the hassle to me but as Donna likes to say YMMV. Raz
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Old 12-09-2011, 04:19 PM   #34
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Solar panels and inverter consideration.

There are other points which could be considered in sizing wire gauge between battery and converter for potential future upgrades.
- Solar panels - if solar panels are connected at a converter than 12AWG should be OK; (13AWG at 10 at 10A losses would be low at 3%).
- Inverter 200W would need at 10 14AWG wire but for 500W 8AWG would be required. For me the 1500W inverter drove the gauge of my cables.
George.
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