Electrical ?? regarding Atwood LP CO Detector install - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-14-2014, 10:31 AM   #1
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Name: David
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Electrical ?? regarding Atwood LP CO Detector install

My understanding of electricity doesn't go far beyond black to black, red to red, etc. I'm installing an Atwood LP CO Detector and want to know if I can tie it into the wiring leading to the water pump. Here are the specs from the detector manual:

Supply Voltage Thresholds:. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 to 18 VDC (13.5V nominal)
Supply Current (Max): . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 mA
Supply Current (Typical): . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 mA

If not, how should I source it on our Scamp 19?

Thanks for your help,

David
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Old 06-14-2014, 10:41 AM   #2
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Your water pump wires will only be hot when the water pump is ON. Best to find another source.
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Old 06-14-2014, 10:58 AM   #3
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The standard procedure in residential is to put the SD detectors , CO detectors and fire detectors on with a common lighting circuit (Kitchen ,Hallway ,Bath Lighting) . If your lights don't work then you know your detectors are not functioning . I have been to several house fires where the detectors did not work when needed , Someone had put the detectors on a separate circuit , the circuit had been (accidentally ?) shut off and no one had noticed.
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Old 06-15-2014, 02:33 PM   #4
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Thanks Bob & Steve

I need all the electrical help I can get.

Thanks,

David
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Old 06-16-2014, 01:57 AM   #5
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Well in one answer I guess if the water pump don't work than the SD must be off. In the other answer, that is a really neat idea. Personally I prefer to use lithium long life, 10years batteries, that way if my trailer batteries die I still have a functioning SD.
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Old 06-16-2014, 07:30 AM   #6
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Battery Backup

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Originally Posted by frankcfx View Post
Well in one answer I guess if the water pump don't work than the SD must be off. In the other answer, that is a really neat idea. Personally I prefer to use lithium long life, 10years batteries, that way if my trailer batteries die I still have a functioning SD.
Modern code compliant detectors are fed with line voltage and have a battery backup plus are interconnected (One goes off All go off). In a fire , the line voltage power is often lost and the battery is required to sound the alarm The problem seems to be that a lot of people never test their detectors nor change the detectors battery .Secondly ionization smoke detectors (*The radioactive ones) have a limited usable life span . How many people change out their detectors every 5 years. Very few people read or follow the UL listing instructions that are supplied by the detectors manufacturer. When battery only smoke detectors were allowed in apartments , the tenants would steal the detector batteries to power their radios . If a fire / inspection occurred ,the landlord was fined for not having working smoke detectors. I went through a 33 unit apartment complex checking smoke detectors ,only 3 had batteries in the detector ! Frank, I agree that a battery detector would work in a trailer but I would never trust /rely on any battery lasting 10 years
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Old 06-16-2014, 08:43 AM   #7
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I think that the O.P. is telling us that it is a 12 volt CO detector. If it is attached to any existing switchable wires there is a high possibility that it will nor be on, especially at night. I think that most of us turn off things like the water pump, and certainly the lights, at night, the very time when you need a CO detector.

Because of the potential risks involved, many of us hesitate to give electrical advice to an electrical novice.

Suffice to say that the CO detector should be wired to it's own fuse in the power chasses, but you may also want to have a very visible switch for turning it OFF when in storage as they can use enough power to drag down your battery to dead after an extended period of time.(Mine did)
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Old 06-16-2014, 12:26 PM   #8
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Steve, I agree with you, I wouldn't trust a battery for ten years either. I test at least every year by pushing the required test button, all so it checks my hearing at the same time!
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