Electrical shut down - Page 5 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-18-2013, 10:14 AM   #57
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Right then we could argue about how it is metered, whether the meter was of adequate quality and calibration, what other similar refrigerators might also draw, do European refrigerators have the same draw, what gauge was the wiring and was it single strand or braided ?
Tom..... wrong side of the bed?
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Old 01-18-2013, 10:27 AM   #58
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Tom..... wrong side of the bed?
Tired of the same old arguments by the same people.
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Old 01-18-2013, 10:30 AM   #59
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Totally agree Raz, I was just questioning whether or not it may pull less DC if it wasnt on Auto mode than it would on it. It would be nice if the manufactures where to state more clearly their documentation what the draw is on propane as it seems hard to find even on their websites.

I wonder if anyone has put a meter on a Dometic 2193 to confirm it doesnt pull any DC on propane. I know it is the replacement for my old fridge which I had always assumed didnt pull any DC while on propane as the documentation/manual doesnt give any info on it, that was until someone here pulled up some documentation that it actually did - all be it a small amount.
We owned a Norcold 300 and now have the Dometic 2193. I have serviced both units. Both are primitive by today's standards. No electronics what so ever. The DC connection goes directly to the heating element via a switch. Nothing else. Promise Raz

Edit: Found the schematic. They don't get any simpler than that. Not even a thermostat on the DC side.
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Old 01-18-2013, 10:42 AM   #60
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We owned a Norcold 300 and now have the Dometic 2193. I have serviced both units. Both are primitive by today's standards. No electronics what so ever. The DC connection goes directly to the heating element via a switch. Nothing else. Promise Raz
Thanks Raz.
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Old 01-18-2013, 11:05 AM   #61
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Thanks Raz.
Which model do you have?
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Old 01-18-2013, 11:36 AM   #62
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RM2201 which I had assumed didnt draw anything on propane until some well hidden specs where published here when the topic of the OP of this thread, needed a replacement fridge came up awhile ago. Cant recall off the top of my head what the amount was - it was *very* small though. I did after that info was posted put my fridge on propane in the driveway for a day on a fully charged & rested battery. I plugged in the meter again and checked it after about 8 hours - sure enough something is pulling DC - again not a lot but some - had unplugged everything else (including the meter) that pulled DC prior to staring the fridge so assumed the DC drain was the fridge. Sorry I didnt make a note of how much but it wasn't a big amount and not an amount that even my tiny solar has a problem keeping up with it. Sorry cant be more specific but electrical is something I need to read the Electrical for Dummies book before even changing out a connection I only asked about the newer fridge as my fridge is creeping up in age and may need to be replaced in the not to distant future and I do tend to camp off the grid a fair bit.
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Old 01-18-2013, 12:07 PM   #63
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...
I wonder if anyone has put a meter on a Dometic 2193 to confirm it doesnt pull any DC on propane. I know it is the replacement for my old fridge which I had always assumed didnt pull any DC while on propane as the documentation/manual doesnt give any info on it, that was until someone here pulled up some documentation that it actually did - all be it a small amount.
I have the 2193. I've measured every DC device on board (Jeez, you buy one clamp meter you've got to justify it somehow)

I also wired up a box (just noodlin' around) to put in line with the trailer plug. (It's not hard wired into the line.) I verified no current draw with the DC switch off. I also verified to my satisfaction that at least a Ford with the tow package provides no more current than is demanded and will not charge the trailer battery appreciably. But that's an over-argued topic for yet another time
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Old 01-18-2013, 12:09 PM   #64
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Under normal circumstances I use a Link 10 to monitor the DC load on the trailer battery. It will show DC amps as well. Same answer wrt to the reefer.
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Old 01-18-2013, 12:47 PM   #65
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RM2201 which I had assumed didnt draw anything on propane until some well hidden specs where published here when the topic of the OP of this thread, needed a replacement fridge came up awhile ago. Cant recall off the top of my head what the amount was - it was *very* small though. I did after that info was posted put my fridge on propane in the driveway for a day on a fully charged & rested battery. I plugged in the meter again and checked it after about 8 hours - sure enough something is pulling DC - again not a lot but some - had unplugged everything else (including the meter) that pulled DC prior to staring the fridge so assumed the DC drain was the fridge. Sorry I didnt make a note of how much but it wasn't a big amount and not an amount that even my tiny solar has a problem keeping up with it. Sorry cant be more specific but electrical is something I need to read the Electrical for Dummies book before even changing out a connection I only asked about the newer fridge as my fridge is creeping up in age and may need to be replaced in the not to distant future and I do tend to camp off the grid a fair bit.
Carol, I reviewed the service manual and schematic and the only functional difference I see between a 2193 and a 2201 is that the 2201 has a thermostat that functions in the DC setting where the 2193 does not. This unit actually has one thermostat for gas operation and a second shared by both forms of electric operation. My Norcold had the same arrangement but it was not obvious to the user as both thermostats shared the same adjust shaft. Based on what I see you should not need DC to operate on gas. The easiest way to verify that is simply to disconnect the battery and fire up the fridge. Raz
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Old 01-18-2013, 02:20 PM   #66
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Based on what I see you should not need DC to operate on gas. The easiest way to verify that is simply to disconnect the battery and fire up the fridge. Raz
Thanks Raz thats what I had thought for about 5 years until someone here sent me a PM link that suggested otherwise. I cleared out my PM's so I cant find it again to see the link to the site the info came from. I may one of these days when I have another reason for disconnecting the battery test it out to see if it will run without the DC. As I said it was such a small drain I didnt really worry about it after and just want to avoid getting a new fridge if possible that draws more power. It may well be the trailer has another fathom load happening just not sure what it would be though. I have 2 great meters that I use and thought I know how to use them but there is also the possibility I don't!
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Old 01-18-2013, 02:39 PM   #67
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Thanks Raz thats what I had thought for about 5 years until someone here sent me a PM link that suggested otherwise. I cleared out my PM's so I cant find it again to see the link to the site the info came from. I may one of these days when I have another reason for disconnecting the battery test it out to see if it will run without the DC. As I said it was such a small drain I didnt really worry about it after and just want to avoid getting a new fridge if possible that draws more power. It may well be the trailer has another fathom load happening just not sure what it would be though. I have 2 great meters that I use and thought I know how to use them but there is also the possibility I don't!
I get about 40 mA (.04A) drain due to the propane gas detector. Takes about 3 weeks to drop my battery down to 12.3 volts so I try to remember to disconnect things. Take care, Raz
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Old 01-18-2013, 05:43 PM   #68
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Bonehead me! So standard site means a level spot and picnic table. Thank goodness I have the propane tank and two battery lights. I wonder what the basic site is if this is standard. Anyhow, thank you again for all the help. At least I now know the propane will last the two days! -- and for you chilly northern folks, a little eye candy. It has warmed up into the 70s.
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