Get rid of the 110v cord - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 12-10-2015, 10:44 AM   #15
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Name: Greg
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I think I would try installing squishy rubber washers under the mounting screws. I agree that your plywood floor could possibly be contributing to magnifying the vibration noise. Worth a try, a few cheap grommets may solve your problem. Let us know if it works.
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Old 12-10-2015, 10:51 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by gordon2 View Post
OK, I just did that.

Bottom line is a little 60 cycle hum from the windings in the contactor (relay) is not unusual. Furthermore, the mounting surface can act as a sounding board, which I think, in the case of the Scamp's floor, is the case.

Some suggested solutions include mounting on rubber washers, which I tried, and / or mounting the contactor (inside the box) on rubber washers.

They did offer to send a new contactor, but I declined as it seems to be normal.

It is a very slight hum and no doubt some people are more susceptible to it than others. I'll bet if you take a stethoscope to the box you will hear it.
Another thing you can try is to unplug & replug the trailer. Sometimes the contractor will not seat properly & reconnecting can help.

As Gordon mentioned, Progressive is very good about sending a replacement contractor if the problem persists. You would have to switch the devices...
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Old 12-10-2015, 02:37 PM   #17
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I am with Steve on this one.. I work part time at an RV dealership and have witnessed numerous folks come in to purchase replacement "detachable" power cords because their original "detachable" cord had been STOLEN.. They are made of copper and easy to trade for $$.. I am sticking with the "pull out cord" method because they appear to most folks to be harder to walk away with ;-)
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Old 12-10-2015, 05:21 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Casita Greg View Post
I think I would try installing squishy rubber washers under the mounting screws.

Thats what I was referring to when I said (in post #13):
Some suggested solutions include mounting on rubber washers, which I tried,


I also tried a small rubber mat and even temporarily 3 inch mattress topper foam, none of which made much difference.

Also the rig has been plugged in and out many times, the hum is still there.

But the hum is so slight I am not "going to lose any sleep about it." I just mentioned it so that buyers would not be surprised if they hear it.

As for cord theft.. the only difference is that the theft of the removable cord can be a spur of the moment theft where one would have to bring wire cutters to get your pull out cord. I hate the mouse hole so much I am willing to take a chance on theft.
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Old 12-10-2015, 06:55 PM   #19
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A detachable power cord can be stolen or left behind, as pointed out. The male connector attached to the trailer can get damaged and that whole approach seems expensive to me.

To avoid those drawbacks, I mounted a 5x5 fence post sleeve under the back of the Scamp and took the power cord straight down through the floor and into the 5x5 sleeve. Since the sleeve is below the frame and tied to it, there are about three inches of the power cord exposed, but protected by a piece of a rubber hose. When in use, the cord comes out of the end of the sleeve. When stowed, the cord is folded in three, the fold is held small with a velcro tape and all is shoved into the sleeve and closed. I can probably store a few other things in that fence post sleeve if needed. I hope my description is clear enough to be of some help. I don't remember if I have pictures.
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Old 12-10-2015, 10:24 PM   #20
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Name: John Michael
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I am really pleased with my shore power detachable cable. Details Detachable Shore power mod, etc.
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Old 12-11-2015, 06:00 AM   #21
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Chris implies a second reason I'm good with on-board items. I have pairs (or more) of any number of items because I forgot the original and had(?) to buy another on the road. Apparently, despite a pretty decent checklist in the rush to go I sometimes don't use it. Heaven forbid I forgot the cord with the specialty marine connection; I couldn't be going to Wally's world for a replacement. Although I suppose (haven't checked myself) someone must make a 30a marine to 30a RV adapter (edit: Camco 55522 for a nice one, $40) you could stash somewhere in the trailer for when/if you forget.


But, go for it. It's just not for me.
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Old 12-11-2015, 08:40 AM   #22
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Everyone’s different, a fact that I’m almost always grateful for. I want it all onboard all the time. If I could sort through how to do it to my satisfaction, I’d probably put the water hose in a cubby somewhere too.
I found the coiled, semi rigid plastic, hose works best and it fits in another one of those 5x5 fence post sleeves.

I really like your signature byline!
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Old 12-11-2015, 09:42 AM   #23
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Name: Darral
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I'm with others on staying "onboard". The ONLY gripe I have is that it gets hung up around the converter or something inside the compartment at times. This is VERY annoying when you're trying to hook up and need that extra 6 or 7" and have to stop to go inside and untangle it! Scamp could have done a better job of compartmentalizing the cord somewhat back there to prevent that. I would do it but it's next to impossible to get in there and work with the water heater after the construction is finished. And, I dont want to pull the bench.

But if anyone has experienced this and has a simple remedy, I'm all "eyes" .

Oh and let me "borrow" your idea. I've always been flattered if someone wanted to use one of my original mods and certainly never considered someone ripping off my idea.
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Old 12-11-2015, 10:05 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by Darral T. View Post
...The ONLY gripe I have is that it gets hung up around the converter or something inside the compartment at times....

But if anyone has experienced this and has a simple remedy, I'm all "eyes" . ..
I SO AGREE! The first two or three times I set up camp after buying the Scamp, I had to go back inside and untangle the darn thing. And once it was in the rain. Such a PIA when the bed is made up!

Solution? Dump the pull out cord!... See the above posts!

And I do like the under trailer fence post idea. I just put a 64 inch sewer hose under the trailer in a similar way. It was actually a bit of a job to do, what with stuff in the way.
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Old 12-11-2015, 10:05 AM   #25
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A detachable power cord can be stolen or left behind, as pointed out. Yes, and so can your barbeque, lawn chairs, water hose, etc. Poor argument there IMO. The male connector attached to the trailer can get damaged and that whole approach seems expensive to me. The male connector is recessed inside a protective cover flap that covers the prongs when not in use. How exactly would this get "damaged". I've owned boats and RV's for over 40 years, and all have been equipped with twist-lock removable cords. I have yet to damage one or have one stolen to this day. Again, not a strong argument to back that statement, especially without any facts showing this to be a real-world problem. Also, as to the question of it being expensive, assume for a moment that you had a "senior moment" and did forget to unplug your trailer. I think that most folks would agree that replacing a $20 cracked plastic cord end would be a lot cheaper than ripping half of your $200 converter's guts out as you are pulling away.

To avoid those drawbacks, I mounted a 5x5 fence post sleeve under the back of the Scamp and took the power cord straight down through the floor and into the 5x5 sleeve. Since the sleeve is below the frame and tied to it, there are about three inches of the power cord exposed, but protected by a piece of a rubber hose. And how is that dangling cord end, and the 5X5 tube mounted underneath where they would be more prone to damage from bottoming out or from contact with road debris, protected when compared to a totally removable cord that I place in the safekeeping of my gear box well out of harm's way in any better. When in use, the cord comes out of the end of the sleeve. When stowed, the cord is folded in three, the fold is held small with a velcro tape and all is shoved into the sleeve and closed. I just can't see how this is in any way quicker or more convenient than just coiling it up and throwing it in the truck. The purpose of getting rid of the permanently attached cord to begin with was to not have to fight getting the cord into some small inconvenient space. Pick it up, coil it up, and you're done. I can probably store a few other things in that fence post sleeve if needed. I hope my description is clear enough to be of some help. I don't remember if I have pictures.
Not trying to start an argument, but I'm just not seeing any real benefit from your installation.
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Old 12-11-2015, 11:02 AM   #26
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My trailer came with the 30A. Marinco cord Casita Greg has. It's top shelf in terms of quality but is quite heavy and when installed on the side of my trailer you could see the fiberglass flexing. With no AC or other high demand appliances, I bought the socket John has and adapted it. I replaced the main breaker to 15 A. and use a standard 14 ga. extension cord. It works well for my limited use. Raz
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Old 12-11-2015, 11:07 AM   #27
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If your planning to make your own detachable cord Just make sure your trailer side is a male connector not a female connector. Other wise your jumper cord will have 2 male ends on it making it extremely dangerous should you plug in to the post, then plug into your trailer. This would leave energized exposed poles on the end of the cord. I would also suggest you use industrial rated twist lock connectors for your trailer connection.

If you used commercial pre-designed entry cord kit this will already have the proper connectors with the electrical safety requirement.
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Old 12-11-2015, 11:53 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by Darral T. View Post
I'm with others on staying "onboard". The ONLY gripe I have is that it gets hung up around the converter or something inside the compartment at times. This is VERY annoying when you're trying to hook up and need that extra 6 or 7" and have to stop to go inside and untangle it! Scamp could have done a better job of compartmentalizing the cord somewhat back there to prevent that. I would do it but it's next to impossible to get in there and work with the water heater after the construction is finished. And, I dont want to pull the bench.

But if anyone has experienced this and has a simple remedy, I'm all "eyes" .
When hooking-up, I use an extension cord plugged into the pull-out cord, and keep the pull-out cable neatly coiled inside the compartment (and clean). If I need a longer cord, I can use some of the pull-out, but so far the extension has been long enough.
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