Get rid of the 110v cord - Page 4 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 12-12-2015, 01:44 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trainjunkie View Post
One of the best upgrades I ever did.
Same with me, and what you here from most other folks that do it. I have never heard anyone say that they wished they hadn't gone that way. It seems the ones who have not tried it are often the biggest naysayers.
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Old 03-18-2016, 08:53 AM   #44
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We've completed this project and it went very smoothly. Now we're getting ready to install the Progressive Dynamics charge controller, maybe this weekend. We'll see...
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Old 03-18-2016, 10:57 AM   #45
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What I did rather than put in a outside plug was to put a small partition inside that compartment. Now the power cord extension power cord (which I've never used in 10 years) and a couple other things are corralled in the front part of the compartment and sleeping bags, 12 volt fan and battery charger occupy the rear part of that same compartment.
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Old 03-19-2016, 07:41 AM   #46
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I've thought of putting in some type of partition myself to keep the cord from getting tangled up. Even a plastic small tote. Problem is I have a water heater and there's zero room to work in there. Going the detachable cord route makes sense to me in the future, just to avoid having to come in the trailer when setting up and untangling it. Often in the rain. Kind of a Pita.

I don't worry about meeskies myself. I put fresh cab in area where cord stores and shove hole full of steel wool during winter storage. As far as dirt goes, as I'm pushing cord back in at end of camping trip, I wipe it off in sections with a towel.


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Old 03-24-2016, 10:05 PM   #47
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I have done this on a Casita and current Bigfoot it makes things easier for me, especially when it is cold or miserable. It is simple to disconnect, coil the cord on the ground and slip it in a sturdy bag about 14-16" square and toss it in the back of the TV. I liked the quality of the Marinco kit, I think they have changed names now, there a couple of brands on the market, but they appear interchangeable.
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Old 03-25-2016, 02:22 AM   #48
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I hated the cord going through my wall and leaving a gap and spot without insulation, as well as a large pile of dirty wire on the floor. (I removed my dinette to build office space under my electric lifted bed)

What I did since the conversion kits for the 30 amp are so expensive is install one of these;
http://www.amazon.com/NOCO-Genius-GC...ds=noco+13+amp

It's a 13 amp connector, though it seems to have no issue with 15 amps when I tested it for about ten minutes watching the temps. If you don't need a whole lot of power this is perfect. It's completely sealed and comes with a nice rubber seal.
Oh, and it's cheap too.


Hope this helps!
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Old 03-25-2016, 09:18 AM   #49
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Originally Posted by KenjiFox View Post
I hated the cord going through my wall and leaving a gap and spot without insulation, as well as a large pile of dirty wire on the floor. (I removed my dinette to build office space under my electric lifted bed)

What I did since the conversion kits for the 30 amp are so expensive is install one of these;
Amazon.com: NOCO Genius GCP1 Black 13 Amp 125V AC Port Plug: Automotive

It's a 13 amp connector, though it seems to have no issue with 15 amps when I tested it for about ten minutes watching the temps. If you don't need a whole lot of power this is perfect. It's completely sealed and comes with a nice rubber seal.
Oh, and it's cheap too.


Hope this helps!
I'm not sure what your electrical power needs are, and with this thing they'd have to be pretty minimal, but this little POS that is wired with 16 gauge certainly wouldn't cut it for running my trailer. I have house lamps that have a bigger cord than this thing. I'll keep my 30 amp equipment, and I'm glad I have a real power cord. I can believe the "it's cheap" part though.
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Old 03-25-2016, 06:16 PM   #50
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Haha, indeed you are correct. Most high amp draw stuff comes from my house batteries and bulk modified sine inverter. I have an 800 Watt pure sine generator that is the primary thing I connect to that Noco port. It literally cannot overload the connection.
If I run something that takes more power than that I use the batteries. Such as a quick burst with my microwave or one of my small ovens. My constant use power comes from a modified pure sine UPS. This provides 600 watts constantly on demand to run my computers or other electronics. The batteries are mainly charged with a set of Renogy solar panels on top of the trailer. basically, the amount of power I need to send into my trailer is quite small. the biggest load at any one time is 1300 to 1500 watts from a heater or my largest oven on its highest setting. I only use one such thing at a time. I came to the conclusion that I have no need for a 30 amp system in my Scamp after thinking about the fact that I have run it for 3 years off of a standard utility extension cord and a 15 to 30 amp adapter. That includes running my AC all summer, AND cooking at the same time.
YMMV and all that.

Besides all of that, it's easy to put a 30 amp connector in the same hole at a later date.
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Old 04-08-2016, 11:00 AM   #51
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I went with 31 amp. You never know when you will need that extra amp!
Another benefit will not be getting arrested by the park ranger for removing ants from the State Park again.
No worries now,
Russ
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