Back again. I understand the code confusion between vehicle and house wiring and the possibility of confusion between black DC negative and black AC hot. I have assiduously studied the "netature" and conclude that the Newmark distribution centre does not offer the convenience of say a Magnatek where the innards of the converter are accessible from the front panel for replacement. I will be forced to pull my converter out (not the best situation as some feeds are of less than optimum length for accessibility in the aisle; I know this because I've had it out simply to add a box connector for another AC house line), remove the Newmark converter and bolt the PD converter to the sheet metal at rear.
I could also place the converter in a forward locker closer to batt. but Per Walthinson put his new Progressive Dynamics on the back of the same Newmark chassis and thought it worked out fine. Which ever location I choose, I seek advice about the leads to the battery
. They appear to me to be #10 stranded for a run of <12'. Should I consider pulling them and replacing with #8 (or larger)? I've read about the addition of extra conductors (say side-by-side #10s) on the same terminals at both ends to yield a lowered resistance equivalent to that provided by a larger gauge. The only thing stopping me from buying #8 is price per foot. What would you advise?
I had no electrolyte loss thru the winter mos. but have added water twice since early June so am anxious to get the "smart" charger with reduced regulatory voltage on line fairly soon. This fix got pushed back in the queue as I first waited for reasonable temp and humidity to attend to AC roof seal and rebedding of rear window. Then a new TV mount and moving the antenna and cable jacks and adding a new duplex receptable intervened. That's done, AC is done; rear window Saturday weather permitting and we're getting some moderation in the summer heat wave. I can now work in the trailer without running the AC full gas so want to get on this.