Hookup for replacement converter - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-15-2012, 10:24 AM   #1
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Name: Jack
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Hookup for replacement converter

I'm replacing the converter end of my Newmark distribution panel with a Progressive Dynamics Intellipower 9245. I intend to bolt the new converter to the back of the distribution panel after removing the converter bits. Anything I should know, look out for? Looks straitforward.

jack
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Old 07-15-2012, 11:45 AM   #2
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take pictures before disassembling of the wires.
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Old 07-15-2012, 01:37 PM   #3
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My battery leads are red/black, the converter I have uses red/white. Not a big deal, but it is easy to get confused. Figure out a way to "unconfuse" yourself.

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I'm replacing the converter end of my Newmark distribution panel with a Progressive Dynamics Intellipower 9245. I intend to bolt the new converter to the back of the distribution panel after removing the converter bits. Anything I should know, look out for? Looks straitforward.

jack
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1978 Trillium 4500 "Bernerwagon"
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Old 08-15-2012, 07:12 PM   #4
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Back again. I understand the code confusion between vehicle and house wiring and the possibility of confusion between black DC negative and black AC hot. I have assiduously studied the "netature" and conclude that the Newmark distribution centre does not offer the convenience of say a Magnatek where the innards of the converter are accessible from the front panel for replacement. I will be forced to pull my converter out (not the best situation as some feeds are of less than optimum length for accessibility in the aisle; I know this because I've had it out simply to add a box connector for another AC house line), remove the Newmark converter and bolt the PD converter to the sheet metal at rear.

I could also place the converter in a forward locker closer to batt. but Per Walthinson put his new Progressive Dynamics on the back of the same Newmark chassis and thought it worked out fine. Which ever location I choose, I seek advice about the leads to the battery. They appear to me to be #10 stranded for a run of <12'. Should I consider pulling them and replacing with #8 (or larger)? I've read about the addition of extra conductors (say side-by-side #10s) on the same terminals at both ends to yield a lowered resistance equivalent to that provided by a larger gauge. The only thing stopping me from buying #8 is price per foot. What would you advise?

I had no electrolyte loss thru the winter mos. but have added water twice since early June so am anxious to get the "smart" charger with reduced regulatory voltage on line fairly soon. This fix got pushed back in the queue as I first waited for reasonable temp and humidity to attend to AC roof seal and rebedding of rear window. Then a new TV mount and moving the antenna and cable jacks and adding a new duplex receptable intervened. That's done, AC is done; rear window Saturday weather permitting and we're getting some moderation in the summer heat wave. I can now work in the trailer without running the AC full gas so want to get on this.

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Old 08-23-2012, 07:07 PM   #5
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Update: Ran 6awg welding cable to replace the #10 from battery to Newmark converter/distribution panel which functioned as both battery charging and 12 volt house mains at the 12 volt fuse block . The #10 is still the fuse panel mains but the #6 charges the battery from the PD 9245 piggybacking on the back of the distribution panel chassis. The run is long at 17' (as the cable lays not strait line) one way. On boost mode, the voltmeter was showing 14.34V; the manual says the converter should push 14.4 so the loss is a only .06V. The Rube Goldberg rig in the Newmark never produced a charging voltage above 13.5V; it's in the trash now. I was confused for a bit by the leads into the converter section from a contactor mounted other side of the wall in the 12VDC fuse panel but have decided (since everything is functioning) that it's just another bit of the Newmark rig which can go as the PD should be self-contained and not require triggering by a relay. Hope that's right!!! I know some of you juice wizards will probably light up over this and scare the crap out of me and that's fine. That's what I have you for.

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Old 08-24-2012, 09:33 PM   #6
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Wiring

Just remember that fuses are designed to protect the wiring which has a side effect of protecting things from catching on fire due to melting wiring. I applaud you for going with the heavier cable to carry a heavier load. voltage loss for #6 will be negligible. Running parallel cables has it own downside of not being as efficient as running the equivalent larger cable thus negating the desired effect. Making sure fuses or breakers are not oversized or undersized for the gauge wire will help and contribute to the safety of your system BTW some meters will vary between other identical meters of the same brand. they can be accurate without being exact
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Old 08-25-2012, 06:17 AM   #7
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Yes, relative accuracy and precision are different parameters of measurement but for the life of me, I'd have to look it up to tell you why. I think it has to do fineness of measurement and where you happen to land in the margin of error category. Perils of the geriatric mind. Should I fuse the positive on the charging lead or are the 30 amp automotive fuses in the converter adequate? Manual states that they blow to avoid damage from reversing the polarity of leads (something I probably won't do as I ordered red and black insulation for the battery cable). The new converter is rated at 45 amps if that has direct bearing on the result.

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Old 08-26-2012, 06:47 PM   #8
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Paul, decided to add an 80amp fuse on the positive to guard against the catastrophic direct short and meltdown scenario. I have such a fuse (higher amp rating of course) on the 1/0 inverter leads.

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Old 08-27-2012, 06:16 PM   #9
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If you think about it all of the breakers in your house are located at the source of the incoming power. same principle. I'm no stranger to the geriatric stuff also. hope your system works well.
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Old 08-27-2012, 06:51 PM   #10
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Seems to be working fine. Multimeter says 13.14V on charge now and the "Charge Wizard" indicator is blinking at the correct rate. Went to the 13.2V storage rate sometime yesterday evening. Now I have to catch it in the agitation, boost, or desulfation mode which occurs for a quarter hour at 21 hour intervals. There's already a 200amp fuse and sizable fuse holder in the inverter positive lead under the battery box lid; perhaps one more will fit. I'm not much for extra enclosures.

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