How know when Scamp battery is getting low? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 02-02-2014, 09:24 AM   #15
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Yes that is true

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Originally Posted by CPW View Post
Any battery left over time will discharge.
However a properly maintained battery can last many years.
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Old 02-02-2014, 09:43 AM   #16
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However a properly maintained battery can last many years.

Yes, it is true that proper maintenance will enhance battery life. Chargers with a desulfation ability help, as premature battery death often results from sulfur build-up in the cells. But storing one on a concrete floor will have no adverse effect on the battery. Today's batteries are made with a non porous hard plastic shell rather than a hard rubber based case. Many years ago concrete may have been a no-no, but no longer true, now an urban myth.
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Old 02-02-2014, 10:22 AM   #17
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Go to: snopes.com: Do Cement Floors Ruin Car Batteries?
to read more.
Attached Thumbnails
Screen Shot 2014-02-02 at 8.19.23 AM.png  
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Old 02-02-2014, 10:51 AM   #18
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Interesting.. Tks
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Old 02-02-2014, 11:09 AM   #19
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Sounds sound.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by CPW View Post
Yes, it is true that proper maintenance will enhance battery life. Chargers with a desulfation ability help, as premature battery death often results from sulfur build-up in the cells. But storing one on a concrete floor will have no adverse effect on the battery. Today's batteries are made with a non porous hard plastic shell rather than a hard rubber based case. Many years ago concrete may have been a no-no, but no longer true, now an urban myth.
If stored in a garage in a colder northern climate I would still avoid the concrete floor and opt for a non conductive well ventilated shelf because the potential for freezing the battery would be greater in my opinion.

Rick.
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Old 02-02-2014, 07:17 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by kdhanso View Post
Never saw these before. Had to order one! I do have a 12v socket in my trailer.
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Old 02-02-2014, 07:35 PM   #21
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Smile Old Wives Tale #238

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Originally Posted by Briantb View Post
Another caution.. Don't leave the battery on your concrete basements floor
Unless your battery is from the 1940's.....

snopes.com: Do Cement Floors Ruin Car Batteries?


Concrete floors are just fine.....
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Old 02-02-2014, 09:16 PM   #22
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Concrete vs. Cement

FYI..

Concrete is what floors are made of.
Cement is what holds the sand and
rocks together to form the concrete.
My architect brother corrected me a
while back. Picky, picky....

Larry H
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Old 02-02-2014, 10:24 PM   #23
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It's always a good idea to get the "Less Expensive", two decimal place voltmeters, checked against a known meter. I have seen as much as a full one volt error and don't use them any more. Also, any dirt or oxidation in the socket on on the plug can result in reading errors.

I prefer the "Volt Minder" , about $35, if you can find one.
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Old 02-03-2014, 09:13 AM   #24
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When and if you top the battery with distilled water in addition to wearing safety glasses having the battery on a surface you don't care about such as a piece of scrap wood is a good idea. Battery liquid is acid, and will stain/damage things like concrete.

If there is any acid on the outside of the battery from vapor condensation during charging, leaking or sloshing you can expect damage to whatever is under the battery. Your call if that surface is concrete basement floor or old piece of plywood.

Snopes is speaking of car batteries, RV batteries go though a much longer discharge and thus longer charge process. Charging causes bubbling of the liquid, those bubbles rise to the surface and pop which does put acid droplets into the vented liquid. Venting has improved at trapping that moisture but if it does not do a 100% perfect job during a 6 hr. charging session you could end up with a damaged floor.

It's a box full of acid don't set it on anything you care about being damaged.
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Old 02-03-2014, 10:04 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry C Hanson View Post
FYI..

Concrete is what floors are made of.
Cement is what holds the sand and
rocks together to form the concrete.
My architect brother corrected me a
while back. Picky, picky....

Larry H
You have cemented our understanding with concrete facts.
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Old 02-03-2014, 11:17 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by Dsironi View Post
and now 3 hours later it shows 12.2- 12.4v(?). I'll check it again tomorrow.
David
David thats the resting reading which on a good battery should read much higher than that. Would suggest that the readings you are getting assuming it really was fully charge before you let it sit for a few hours tells you the battery has been allowed to drop below 50% charge a few times or perhaps run dry? If so that will shorten the life of a battery fast & they do not hold charges as they should. Personally try hard to monitor the battery on the trailer but have found even then after 4-5 years the battery probable needs replacing for best results.

The 12 Volt side of life link given in an earlier post is a great write up and explains the whys and how comes.
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Old 02-03-2014, 08:06 PM   #27
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David,
I would suggest you purchase a "smart" charger with a pulse desulfation function. Google "Battery Minder." They make a reasonably priced charger. Build up of sulfur (battery acid is hydro sulfuric acid) on the plates will kill a lead acid battery. I have actually seen a battery declared dead brought back to serviceability by the desulfation process. If you take the battery out of the trailer when it is not in use and keep it permanently plugged in and being desulfated, it should last longer than one that is not maintained this way. In my experience, I have found that I can extend the life of lawn tractor batteries so that I generally double their useful life.
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Old 02-04-2014, 07:10 AM   #28
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Meters

A voltmeter that draws power from the circuit it is measuring is effecting the measurement being taken. Depending on the design of the meter, the effect may or may not be significant. A battery operated digital meter is a better choice. The $10-$20 3 1/2 digit LCD digital multimeters (DMM) are fine. For the beginner you really only need 2 scales; DC voltage (2v, 20v, 200v) and resistance. A continuity buzzer built into the resistance scale is nice for trouble shooting shorts and opens. Scales for temperature, capacitance, frequency etc. as well as transistor Hfe testers are not worth paying extra for on an inexpensive meter. Besides, if you don't know what a capacitor is, why would you need a tester? Meters with rubberized housings are worth the extra expense as they tend to take the abuse of vehicle travel better. Good luck, Raz
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