How long will a battery last? - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-12-2016, 08:04 AM   #29
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Rob,

Your battery capacity analysis is correct assuming:

(1) the amperage draws you listed are all at 12 volts DC
(2) you are discharging a lead acid battery down to 50% (12.1 volts resting)

-John
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Old 06-12-2016, 08:36 AM   #30
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Rob,

Your battery capacity analysis is correct assuming:
..
Except that you probably will not use the lights and TV as much as you figured (unless maybe you have a trailer full of people). I know you were looking at the worst case scenario (all day rain), but my 24 hour use in summer (as an example), would sometimes be as little as this:

One LED light for 1-2 hours: .5 - 1 AH
One smaller LED for 1 hour: .25 AH
Laptop (TV) 2 hours, dim screen: 4 AH
No porch light use or furnace, and assuming no fan use.
Total: 4.75 to 5.25 AHs, or about a week for your grp 24 battery.

I often substitute a tablet for the laptop, so that reduces the consumption even more. If I need the Fantastic Fan then that is around 1.5 amps, about the same as the electrical draw on a furnace, so that will draw down a battery much faster. A moderately sized solar panel can often keep up with this however and extend your time days or weeks (or more).

PS, Your Dinette light sounds high for a LED.. is this a double fixture? I have a double fixture over my stove and found that after taking one bulb out there was still plenty of light, and of course half the power draw.
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Old 06-12-2016, 10:23 AM   #31
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Rob,

I agree with Gordon that your dinette light power consumption estimate might be high. I use #1156 LEDs for interior lighting. They consume about 120 milliamps per bulb. Depends on what lighting products you are using.

I also agree with Gordon's comment that your actual consumption may be much lower than you assume. I have a 36 AH AGM battery. I only use lights a few hours per day and stretch battery power to 5 days. I tested my setup at home by starting with a fully charged battery, turning on lights a predetermined amount of time per day and running the propane detector 24 hours per day. I checked battery voltage each day for five days. I was able to confirm that the battery would last 5 days (staying above 50% charge). Then I went camping!

-John
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Old 06-12-2016, 11:21 AM   #32
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Except that you probably will not use the lights and TV as much as you figured (unless maybe you have a trailer full of people). I know you were looking at the worst case scenario (all day rain), but my 24 hour use in summer (as an example), would sometimes be as little as this:

One LED light for 1-2 hours: .5 - 1 AH
One smaller LED for 1 hour: .25 AH
Laptop (TV) 2 hours, dim screen: 4 AH
No porch light use or furnace, and assuming no fan use.
Total: 4.75 to 5.25 AHs, or about a week for your grp 24 battery.

I often substitute a tablet for the laptop, so that reduces the consumption even more. If I need the Fantastic Fan then that is around 1.5 amps, about the same as the electrical draw on a furnace, so that will draw down a battery much faster. A moderately sized solar panel can often keep up with this however and extend your time days or weeks (or more).

PS, Your Dinette light sounds high for a LED.. is this a double fixture? I have a double fixture over my stove and found that after taking one bulb out there was still plenty of light, and of course half the power draw.
That's what I got from the specifications at superbrightleds. It's a 21 1/2" led bar with 12 1 watt LEDs. It basically can be used as the main light for the camper as it lights up the whole trailer, but it doesn't need to be ran if I'm conserving battery.

The reading light I have installed is a multi chip led also and gives out plenty of light too at a much lower current draw.
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Old 06-12-2016, 11:36 AM   #33
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That's what I got from the specifications at superbrightleds. It's a 21 1/2" led bar with 12 1 watt LEDs. It basically can be used as the main light for the camper as it lights up the whole trailer, but it doesn't need to be ran if I'm conserving battery.
.
Silly me, I just assumed you were talking about a single replacement bulb. Thats not bad for light for the entire camper... sounds like something I have been thinking of doing.
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Old 06-12-2016, 11:42 AM   #34
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Silly me, I just assumed you were talking about a single replacement bulb. Thats not bad for light for the entire camper... sounds like something I have been thinking of doing.
No problem. My camper came without any electrical what so ever so everything had to be redone. I might add some of those rgb led strips to the ceiling at some point in time but just mainly for fun.

I will eventually get one of those stand alone 12v fantastic fans so that will eat up some battery too but so far the reviews say it's not bad on power.
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Old 06-12-2016, 12:28 PM   #35
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Think....GENERATOR....all problems solved.
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Old 06-12-2016, 12:41 PM   #36
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Think....GENERATOR....all problems solved.
Thats so true! One problem solved!


(and a lot more created).
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Old 06-12-2016, 04:11 PM   #37
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Think...OVERBUILD...most problems solved.

I know...math can be fun. But trying to determine your daily electrical needs might be a daunting task. There are so many factors involved, that one day's usage is rarely the same as the last. My suggestion is to jump in and prepare for the most current draw that you can imagine, and then some more. Whatever you can fit and afford is what you should have. The initial investment isn't that great, and the freedom from worry is priceless. That said, I do check the volts, amps and hours often. Because it's fun.

If you really want to get economical, use dimmable LED's.
Don't run your furnace blower all night. Rig a handy switch that lets you turn it on as you need it (like 5 minutes before you emerge from your warm bed).
Don't use an inverter if you can help it. Most everything that you need can be operated on 12 volts.
If you use a 12v fridge, keep it as full as possible.
So, that's just my approach, and it's been successful. You should do whatever works for you. That's the beauty of having your own little playhouse.

Gordon
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Old 06-12-2016, 04:57 PM   #38
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well said Idaho Gord...

Think...OVERBUILD...most problems solved.

The initial investment isn't that great, and the freedom from worry is priceless. That said, I do check the volts, amps and hours often. Because it's fun.

Don't run your furnace blower all night. Rig a handy switch that lets you turn it on as you need it (like 5 minutes before you emerge from your warm bed).

Don't use an inverter if you can help it. Most everything that you need can be operated on 12 volts.

You should do whatever works for you. That's the beauty of having your own little playhouse.
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Old 06-12-2016, 06:36 PM   #39
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Thats so true! One problem solved!


(and a lot more created).
For now if we kill the battery I will just use jumper cables to the car and run it for an hour. Maybe in the future we'll get solar or a generator.

It's crazy how much some places around me are charging for full hookups. Anywhere from almost $50 to $80, while a primitive site with no hookups is $20.
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Old 06-14-2016, 10:52 PM   #40
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Quick question for you electrical experts. If I want to install a voltmeter can I splice it into any 12v circuit or does it have to be installed between the battery and pd4045 fuse panel?
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Old 06-15-2016, 05:52 AM   #41
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Voltage is always measured across. I recommend a digital multimeter (DMM). Avoid anything with an analog readout. It's likely to have a lower input impedance which could effect the accuracy. A $15-$20 meter is fine and can be purchased in most hardware or auto stores. You want one with its own battery. Meters that draw there power from what they are measuring can effect the measurement and can cause parasitic drain if left plugged in. Raz
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Old 06-15-2016, 06:52 AM   #42
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Quick question for you electrical experts. If I want to install a voltmeter can I splice it into any 12v circuit or does it have to be installed between the battery and pd4045 fuse panel?
Overly simplified, the further you get from battery the more the voltage that you measure will be less than the true battery voltage, but the amount will almost certainly be trivial. This is especially true when you consider the inaccuracy of using voltage to measure the state of battery charge in the real world.

Recent battery charging, discharging, and temperature all effect the reading you get and must be taken into account to get the best idea of the battery's state of charge based on voltage. These factors will have more effect than where you measure the voltage in a typical FG trailer. It is best to let the battery sit for a few hours while disconnected before taking a reading. Take a few minutes to read The 12volt Side of Life (Part 1) (esp. the "Testing your batteries" section).
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