I Installed a Solar Panel for my Lil Snoozy - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-27-2016, 09:40 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by Gordon in Idaho View Post
Dan, Gilles and Kenji,

Nice work!

Gilles, you Will tell us if your panel flies off on the highway, won't you?
Gordon
Yes I'll tell you,
But I'm sure it will stay secure.
There is only the thickness of the panel that is working against the wind, about 1.5 inches high by 2 feet wide.

You watched videos on the subject, to fix the panel with 3M VHB tape RP25?
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Old 04-27-2016, 12:42 PM   #30
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It appears from your photograph that the Morningstar solar controller is placed inside your sealed battery box. This is not considered best practices and in some locations against code. The reason are: with flooded batteries, they will from time to time emit corrosive vapors, they will circulate inside the box, even with your fan, and shorten the life of the electronics. Also these vapors can be highly flammable and there is a risk of spark from the electronics, thus best practices is 500 mm separation of any kind of lead battery and your electronics.
Paul,
I agree that there is always a risk when battery vapors and electronics are mixed, even when the electronics are sealed and and the box is ventilated. I do plan on replacing the 12V lead acid with an AGM battery but I'm have difficulties figuring out what the minimum size amp hour battery I would need.
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Old 05-19-2016, 08:33 AM   #31
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Hello - just doing the same with my Trillium 1300. Where did you route the wires from the panel inside to the controller? Thanks.
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Old 05-19-2016, 09:15 AM   #32
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Hello - just doing the same with my Trillium 1300. Where did you route the wires from the panel inside to the controller? Thanks.
Patrick,
I routed the wires from the Solar Panel thru the back hatch of my Highlander and out the bottom of the vehicle to the 7 Way Connector.
I used 2 of the pin connectors on the Highlander's 7 way connector for the Solar Panel Cables to the correspondence pins on the trailer 7 way connector to the charge controller in the battery box on the tongue of the trailer.
Hope that answers what you asked.
Dan

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Old 05-19-2016, 09:42 AM   #33
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This has been a very informative and interesting thread on solar for me. Got me wondering about my home-boy built portable solar system, pictured here. My Morningstar is inside tongue box very close to the batteries because my understanding is the shorter the connection the better. No explosions yet, probably because of a battery box cover.
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Old 05-19-2016, 10:08 AM   #34
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I'm taking the advice of some here who felt having a charge controller close to a lead acid battery was unsafe, even with what I felt was sufficient ventilation. I bought two 12V Group 24 75Ah rated AGM batteries to replace my 84Ah rated lead acid battery. An extra 66lbs on the the tongue will be the trade off for an extra 66 amp hours, maintenance free and safer.
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Old 05-20-2016, 12:27 AM   #35
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short and close....

both are very relative terms.....I remember pouring over wire size charts to make ABSOLUTELY sure I was using the correct wire size....then it hit me....for a certain length the difference between one wire size to the next was TWO PERCENT !!! so, really, get close, pick something that is easy/practical to work with and don't sweat the small stuff.....too much I say anyway

when "they" say a controller should be located as "close as possible" to the batteries.....you think maybe they are thinking about a 40 foot MoHo....and not a fourteen foot inside FG box???? just wonderin'

interesting take on mounting the panels on the nice flat roof of the TV....wouldn't work too well for me as I like to park the trailer somewhere and go exporing in the TV during the day....but I could see how it would be tempting...given a particular usual use....
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Old 05-20-2016, 02:51 AM   #36
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[QUOTE=Franswa;588322]both are very relative terms.....I remember pouring over wire size charts to make ABSOLUTELY sure I was using the correct wire size....then it hit me....for a certain length the difference between one wire size to the next was TWO PERCENT !!! so, really, get close, pick something that is easy/practical to work with and don't sweat the small stuff.....too much I say anyway when "they" say a controller should be located as "close as possible" to the batteries.....you think maybe they are thinking about a 40 foot MoHo....and not a fourteen foot inside FG box???? just wonderin' QUOTE]


Franswa, I think you've hit it on the head for the majority of FG campers. I only boondock and use an 80W suitcase unit I bought at the Quartzsite rally two years ago. Refer's on LP, no TV or computers but do charge the cell phones and have never had a problem with keeping the battery topped off. Now maybe if I had a bunch more gizmos to power up......
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Old 05-20-2016, 05:11 PM   #37
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To be sure not to mislead anyone, I wrote to you the internet link with which I was inspired to install a solar panel on a fiberglass roof.
Add to this link, some comments from members of the Forum who have already experienced a few years ...

Mounts — AM Solar
Now all they need are keyed cylinder locks on the large wing nuts to help prevent the casual theft opportunity.
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Old 05-23-2016, 04:03 PM   #38
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casual theft ???

first a guy would have to get on the roof (AFTER having determined FROM THE GROUND that there is no locks on the panels)....then he'd have to figure out how to work the fasteners....and deal with the wire.....nothing casual about all of that I'm thinking....if somebody is that intent on getting those panels little locks aren't going to make that much difference....just sayin'....I for one would feel pretty comfortable with that set-up security wise....and locks would just make tilting them a little more work to boot
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Old 05-23-2016, 05:01 PM   #39
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[QUOTE=Franswa;588322]both are very relative terms.....I remember pouring over wire size charts to make ABSOLUTELY sure I was using the correct wire size....then it hit me....for a certain length the difference between one wire size to the next was TWO PERCENT !!! so, really, get close, pick something that is easy/practical to work with and don't sweat the small stuff.....too much I say anyway[QUOTE]

I assume you are talking about voltage drop. It has been a long time since I have done any voltage drop calcs so I cannot outright dispute your statement, but I would love to see some evidence backing it up..
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Old 05-23-2016, 11:12 PM   #40
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sure....

http://assets.bluesea.com/files/reso...on_chartlg.jpg

my trailer is 14 feet inside....runs are short....amps are low....the top left hand corner of the chart....
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Old 05-24-2016, 05:57 AM   #41
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Franswa is correct. People fuss about wire size. Most of the solar installations seen here are 5 amps or less (100 watts). Fourteen to 16 gauge wire is usually all that's needed. For a voltage drop to occur you need two resistors in series, typically called a voltage divider. That only occurs between the panel and the controller. The connection between the controller and the battery is a multi source circuit. There, the voltage drop is the difference between the two sources just like any charge line. Raz
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Old 05-24-2016, 09:35 AM   #42
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5 amp...

this is a good illustration (pic)...I thought I would be OPTIMISTIC and figure 6 amps on a PERFECT day for my rooftop panels....14 feet translates into #14 wire....just because I didn't want to do the work again if in the future I upped the capacity on my roof...I used #12 (guilty as charged, twice, for using too large a wire).....for my deployable panel (single 40W panel, 3 amps MAX, max length 20 feet) I used #14.....

12 and 14 is pretty small wire compared to what I often see around here...just sayin'...
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