I'm about to rewire my trillium 1300 and am - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-04-2015, 07:00 PM   #1
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I'm about to rewire my trillium 1300 and am

Wondering if I attach the ground to the frame, or do I attach each lights ground to a wire back to the battery? Or both?


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Old 09-04-2015, 07:00 PM   #2
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Does anyone have wiring schematics for a trillium so I can make sure mine are accurate?


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Old 09-10-2015, 09:37 AM   #3
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From the document centre:
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/d...m%20wiring.pdf
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Old 09-10-2015, 10:06 AM   #4
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On the rebuild I did, I ran a return wire back for the negative, as I don't like relying on the frame for grounding individual fixtures, and the cost is minimal. Too many times in the past I have had trouble with the ground connection corroding, and not working.
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Old 09-10-2015, 10:18 AM   #5
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I agree with Jim. The frame should be grounded on the AC side of things, but for DC I prefer to keep it all in copper.
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Old 12-08-2015, 08:40 AM   #6
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sounds like an old Jeep build I've attempted

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Bennett View Post
On the rebuild I did, I ran a return wire back for the negative, as I don't like relying on the frame for grounding individual fixtures, and the cost is minimal. Too many times in the past I have had trouble with the ground connection corroding, and not working.
Older Jeeps were notorious for this problem and created a nightmare for mechanics to find all of the "ground to frame" connections to determine which had gone bad.
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Old 12-08-2015, 08:54 AM   #7
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Ah, you want fun? 1972 Lucas electrical on a Land Rover. THAT'S fun. In a sick sort of way.
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Old 12-08-2015, 09:26 AM   #8
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I'm getting ready to rewire our 1991 Scamp and I'm anticipating an uproarious laugh fest. I can't really tell which will be more enjoyable; the plumbing or the wiring because both look like they've been installed by Harold, minus his purple crayon. Good times ahead...
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Old 12-08-2015, 09:34 AM   #9
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I used single, stranded, THNN wire for the hot, return and ground in the proper colors, 12 Gauge or larger. You can get it at Lowes or Home Depot. The sheath on the wire is far tougher than ordinary vehicle wiring and the last coating is Teflon. I also used the plastic flexible loom to run it in and that is also at the same stores referenced above.
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Old 12-08-2015, 10:02 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darwin Maring View Post
I used single, stranded, THNN wire for the hot, return and ground in the proper colors, 12 Gauge or larger. You can get it at Lowes or Home Depot. The sheath on the wire is far tougher than ordinary vehicle wiring and the last coating is Teflon. I also used the plastic flexible loom to run it in and that is also at the same stores referenced above.
Darwin, that's what I want to do too. Having all this "spaghetti wiring" running around makes me nuts. I want a clean install with tidy runs. I've used the loom before for other projects and while it'll prolly take a little extra wire but it'll be a lot easier to work on and cleaner when it's put up correctly.

Did you hard mount the loom or simply leave it on the floor?
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Old 12-15-2015, 07:19 PM   #11
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Sorry for the long wait. I used the tie wraps that have a built in screw hole and ran the loom along the wall and screwed it to the floor. Keeps it from wondering and it is out of the way.
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Old 12-15-2015, 07:58 PM   #12
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Name:	<a title=Scamp wiring east front.jpg Views: 53 Size: 198.2 KB ID: 91123" style="margin: 2px" />

I also used the plastic flexable loom, and plastic tie wraps.

However, the tie wraps didn't have the mounting holes, and I used metal clips used to attach electrical conduct to walls, etc. to hold the looms in place on the floor.

The wraps with the holes would have been much better as they would have serve duel purposes.

Bill
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