Installing 12v outlet in 2013 Scamp

[Dsironi]

I would like to install an outlet in the cabinet over the stove facing downward. I am not sure about the
1) wire path from the power control center to the cabinet, (Is there a conduit rub in the floor? I do not see wires on the under side of the Scamp aside for electric brake ones. I have the fuzzy wall coverings.
2) control panel connections (5000 Series 30 Amp AC/DC Power Distribution Panel). Does one remove it from the wall and then wire the new circuit? Having access to the back appears necessary.

I have seen views online of the panel.

[frankcfx]

I have a cigaret lighter outlet in the end of the kitchen on the side under the stove. It was there when I bought the 16' Scamp.
Frank

[KevinScamps]

Originally Posted by Dsironi

I would like to install an outlet in the cabinet over the stove facing downward. I am not sure about the
1) wire path from the power control center to the cabinet, (Is there a conduit rub in the floor? I do not see wires on the under side of the Scamp aside for electric brake ones. I have the fuzzy wall coverings.
2) control panel connections (5000 Series 30 Amp AC/DC Power Distribution Panel). Does one remove it from the wall and then wire the new circuit? Having access to the back appears necessary.

I have seen views online of the panel.

There should already be power up in that cabinet. Grab power from the lights. They are hidden behind panels on the inside of the cabinets.

[steve dunham]

NO there is not a conduit run in the floor . You can tap off the 12 VDC circuit that feeds the light above the sink as suggested above . I ran a separate circuit from the converter . I fished the wires through the cord storage compartment on the drivers side , then under the rat fir along the back of the trailer and then through the water tank /water pump storage compartment on the passenger side of the trailer . I installed the 12 VDC outlet next to the 120 VAC kitchen outlet on the side of the cabinet .

[Dsironi]

Originally Posted by steve dunham

NO there is not a conduit run in the floor . You can tap off the 12 VDC circuit that feeds the light above the sink as suggested above . I ran a separate circuit from the converter . I fished the wires through the cord storage compartment on the drivers side , then under the rat fir along the back of the trailer and then through the water tank /water pump storage compartment on the passenger side of the trailer . I installed the 12 VDC outlet next to the 120 VAC kitchen outlet on the side of the cabinet .

Steve, Did you remove the power control panel to access its connections?

[Steve_N_Janna]

Dsironi, you might try exposing the power distribution panel (sounds like this is a 110v to 12v convertor). If you are plugged into 110v shore power, be sure to disconnect first.

Once you are able to get a clear view of the unit you may discover that it has an unused 12v terminal. The ideal way to run a line to a 12v outlet would be to use an open terminal. The alternative would be to tap into an existing line, as described by Kevin.

If you explore a bit, I bet you'll find a way to run some wire between the power box (or an existing line) and the point at which you'd like to locate the new outlet. Just be sure the new wire is protected from being pinched, crimped or severed and all will be fine. Generally speaking, 12v has a wider safety margin than 110v --- though it is still capable of doing damage if you really screw it up.

I wired two 12v outlets into my Scamp. They have turned out to be handy. I might even add a 3rd one.

[Dsironi]

My latest question, which I also posted on Progressive Dynamics site:

I want to add a 12v circuit to my control center. I have removed the front cover and exposed the AC connections on the left side and the DC fuses on the right side.

Do I need to remove the circuit board that holds the DC fuses by removing the square screw on its left side? I do not want to beak it. Is there more to under it? Or will the connections then be revealed?

Please advise. I do not see any instructions in the installation manual document, or a diagram/image of the under side of that fuse-circuit board.

Thank you.

David

David Sironi
608.628-0723

[Dsironi]

FYI.
PD replied:
On a 4000 control center there is numbered wire corresponding to each fuse
location out the backside of the unit. To connect an additional circuit the
panel needs to be pulled out. Unless there is another access panel.

[Bob Miller]

I can't figure out which power chassis you have. Can you post the exact name and model number?

As a tip, using the light circuit for a DC outlet isn't all that good an idea. If you overload the outlet or get a temporary short, you will also loose all your lights. DC outlets are usually wired with a separate fuse for each outlet for that reason.

Putting a DC outlet in the "Downward Dog" position will result in the male plug slipping out, it will also take up needed space in the floor of the upper cabinet as well as being an easy target for stuff in that area sliding around. Consider the wall on the side of the sink for your outlet, it's usually an easier run for new wires as well.

[deryk]

if you tap into an existing power line to the lights or something, pull the fuse out or disconnect the battery or you will most likely blow a fuse...happened both times I installed an outlet.

[Dsironi]

Thanks for advice.
I installed it adjacent to the AC outlet next to the stove. I did loosen the power control unit, but further than barely reaching into it on the DC fuse side. I could not remove it to connect the new wire, because the main ground wire to the panel did not allow enough slack to access the back. So, after much reaching up and under, twisting and fingering through the side I attached a new wire to the bottom most fuse position. Note, the connector screws are already backed out awaiting the conductor. Nearly an hour was spent trying to get the right combination of tools, mirror and light to 'losen' the screw! Once I realized it was loose, the screw driver worked pretty well with a final ratchet tightening. Running the wire through the seat compartments and up into the under stove area was rather easy.

Two other 'aha moments' were necessary:

The screw that loosens the front of the control panel has a square drive. I could not think of a square screw driver for quite a while until I described my problem to my wife. Upon me saying 'square drive', I knew exactly what was required. I've done decking with them several times. My cordless drill square drive ends were quite perfect!

A DC circuit does not route both wires from and back to the control panel. I noticed that only hot wires left the DC side of the panel and none returned. So, I just joined to the white negative wires going back to the battery under the sink. Real simple.

Also installed a PD charge wizard on the converter.

Still learning, and heading east from Montana on Monday!

David