Installing a flat screen TV - how to get wiring to it? - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-26-2010, 04:05 PM   #1
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I have a flat screen TV that I want to mount on the back corner wall just under my overhead side bin. The TV cable box is on the same side of the trailer mounted between the rear side overhead bin and the kitchen over head cabs so not a problem getting it to the TV - will just put a hole in the overhead bin and run it through. My problem is how to get the electrical to it. The trailer has two electrical plug ins now and one is on the same side on the lower kitchen cab and faces the seating area and I could run a power cable to it but I wondered if I could just add another plug to the overhead bin. Can a 92 scamp handle 3 plug ins? Has anyone added an electrical plug and what do I need to do and know?? LOL

Thanks for the help
Carol
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Old 03-26-2010, 04:47 PM   #2
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I don't know how to do it, but I'm slightly jealous!
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Old 03-26-2010, 06:34 PM   #3
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I don't know how to do it, but I'm slightly jealous!
LOL Don't be. I'm still not sure I reeeealllllly need it or want it. Shocked though with all your DYI that you don't know how to add another elect box! Kind of glad though as you have been putting me to shame!

Carol
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Old 03-26-2010, 08:10 PM   #4
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This depends a bit on what kind of TV you have. Our 10" Coby TV/AM/FM/DVD player runs on 12v and uses at most 2 Amps of power; if you have a small, efficient 12v TV set like ours and 12v wires to the cabinet for a light or other 12v appliance, you can just tap into your existing trailer's wiring.

If not, you will have to run new cable for your 110v system and tie it into your existing outlets. If you haven't worked with 110v wiring before you might ask a knowledgeable friend or consult with the help in the electric department of your local hardware store. Just remember to keep your trailer unplugged when you work on the wires!

As for getting the wire up there, if you have rat-fur on your walls as we do, you can follow the steps I outlined in this earlier post on How To Run Wire Under Rat Fur. What kind of wire you run has a lot to do with how you plan to use your trailer.


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Old 03-26-2010, 08:39 PM   #5
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Cool

[quote]This depends a bit on what kind of TV you have. Our 10" Coby TV/AM/FM/DVD player runs on 12v and uses at most 2 Amps of power; if you have a small, efficient 12v TV set like ours and 12v wires to the cabinet for a light or other 12v appliance, you can just tap into your existing trailer's wiring.

If not, you will have to run new cable for your 110v system and tie it into your existing outlets. If you haven't worked with 110v wiring before you might ask a knowledgeable friend or consult with the help in the electric department of your local hardware store. Just remember to keep your trailer unplugged when you work on the wires!

As for getting the wire up there, if you have rat-fur on your walls as we do, you can follow the steps I outlined in this earlier post on How To Run Wire Under Rat Fur. What kind of wire you run has a lot to do with how you plan to use your trailer.


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Thks Peter for the help. The TBV is not 12v. Don't plan to use it off the grid. I need to run a new 110v wire to a new recepticale box which would be mounted into the under side of the overhead bin. I quess my question is do I need to run the new 110v directly from the breaker box (my manual says I can have up to 4 receptacles and I only have two currently) or would it be dangers to just tap into the receptacle box that is currently not that far from where I want the new receptacle? I seem to recall in the house if we did that a special junction box was needed - can the same been done in the trailer? I rarely if ever have more than one 110v item plug in so blowing a fuse would not be an issue.
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Old 03-27-2010, 12:37 AM   #6
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Thanks for the compliment Carol...and no you don't neeeeed a flatscreen. But it sure will be nice!...


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LOL Don't be. I'm still not sure I reeeealllllly need it or want it. Shocked though with all your DYI that you don't know how to add another elect box! Kind of glad though as you have been putting me to shame!

Carol
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Old 03-27-2010, 01:18 AM   #7
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. . . I quess my question is do I need to run the new 110v directly from the breaker box (my manual says I can have up to 4 receptacles and I only have two currently) or would it be dangers to just tap into the receptacle box that is currently not that far from where I want the new receptacle?
For residential applications the norm is six to eight outlets on one circuit.

As long as the outlet box is the last one on the circuit -- meaning it only has one cable going into the box, not two -- that should work just fine. If not you might find it's easier to run a completely different cable from the same breaker the outlets are on out to the TV.
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Old 03-27-2010, 11:33 AM   #8
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Hi Carol,

Our Scamp was a total restoration project and I wired it for lots more 110v power than the original and probably more than the new ones have as well. I think wiring is simple to understand (I am not an electrician, but I wired our entire house and passed the state inspection), however it MUST be done right! You need the proper guage wire, a matched outlet, the right connections, etc. Home centers like Lowes, Menards and Home Depot have inexpensive books on wiring that are real good. Please educate yourself and/or get help from a knowledgeable friend or an electrician. Make an error with wiring and you could damage your Scamp or worse. IMO no project is worth the risk of injury (or death) to yourself or someone else.

Although 6-8 outlets is typical for a 15-amp breaker, it's more about how much power you will be using at any one time that dictates your wiring layout. You can probably add that outlet for your tv, but one cannot say for sure without knowing the details of your current wiring and what you are plugging in and when. For instance heaters, microwaves and toasters need a lot of power and adding another item could trip your breaker. (Yes, microwaves and toasters are used for short periods of time but they still need to be factored in.) Although breakers are a safety feature to prevent overheating and fires, repeatedly tripping a breaker is an indication that something is wrong.

If you're ever in my area I'd be happy to be of more help. The best to you!
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Old 03-27-2010, 12:30 PM   #9
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Thanks Pete and Darnell for your coments and help.
Have done a few home improvements including electrical so I do have a few books to look at. I was just worried that perhaps the rules for our trailers wiring might be a little more different than home. Thanks for the clarification.

I have the original wiring diagram for the trailer (the trailer is still stock) and will check to make sure the outlet I want to add a run to is in fact the end of the line. I would like to avoid if possible running a new line from the main box due to its location and distance. Thanks Pete for the link on fishing wire - you make it look so easy! I know from redoing the fan that it doesn't always go that easy. LOL

Good news is I don't use much else to compete for power in the trailer - no AC, microwave or coffee maker, only the occasional use of a toaster. Frigerator is on is own run when on AC and the furnace and water pump are both 12v running through the converter at all times.

Carol
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Old 03-27-2010, 01:10 PM   #10
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All great news Carol!

It shouldn't matter if your tv outlet will branch from an outlet that is on the end of the line or in the middle. Many outlets are designed to have up to three lines running from them -- the first should run from the side srews and the rest from holes in the back that grab the bare end of a wire when it is pushed in. Either way, make sure you remove the amount of insulation from the wire you need based on your connection (screw or hole, the amount is different) -- no more, no less. If the outlet you want to run from doesn't have the little holes, just replace that outlet before you add the new one.

You'll be watching TV in no time!
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Old 03-27-2010, 01:18 PM   #11
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Thanks for the compliment Carol...and no you don't neeeeed a flatscreen. But it sure will be nice!...
Yup and it would be even better if I can find a small enough DVD player that fits in the overhead bin so that when the jello shooters run out I can go back to the trailer and fill my boots with chick flicks! :-)
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Old 03-27-2010, 01:21 PM   #12
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All great news Carol!

It shouldn't matter if your tv outlet will branch from an outlet that is on the end of the line or in the middle. Many outlets are designed to have up to three lines running from them -- the first should run from the side srews and the rest from holes in the back that grab the bare end of a wire when it is pushed in. Either way, make sure you remove the amount of insulation from the wire you need based on your connection (screw or hole, the amount is different) -- no more, no less. If the outlet you want to run from doesn't have the little holes, just replace that outlet before you add the new one.

You'll be watching TV in no time!
*Thanks* Darnell for those tips!
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Old 03-27-2010, 01:29 PM   #13
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Yup and it would be even better if I can find a small enough DVD player that fits in the overhead bin so that when the jello shooters run out I can go back to the trailer and fill my boots with chick flicks! :-)

I bought my little DVD player from Menards for about $25! Last time I was there they were still stocking them. Use mine for listening to CDs more often than watching flicks.
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Old 04-01-2010, 04:08 PM   #14
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My Scamp 13 has a double 110 outlet on the kitchen cabinet by dinette (streetside). I use one of the outlets for my FM/AM/CD player that I added to the rear overhead cabinet. I have an extension cord that plugs into one the the outlets and the other end is spliced to the player inside the upper cabinet.

I simply cut the plug off the player and cut off the outlet end of the extension cord. I ran the extension cord up the wall and across the wall above the window into the overhead cabinet, splicing the two together. I used extra carpeting to cover up the extension cord, pieces cut to match the other pieces Scamp uses to cover joints.

You could do the same except connect 110 outlets to the extension cord with a box inside the cabinet covering the connection. You would be left with nice outlets on underside of your cabinet to plug the TV and DVD player to.

Then, you are left with one original outlet but do what I did and simply use one of those plug in outlet splitters. You'll never have everything running at one tme and even if you do the system should handle it.


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Boy some pictures just don't turn out very good. The cabinet is not ugly and dirty looking as the first picture shows, it must have been some sort of glare.
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