Is 35 amps enough capacity for a charge controller? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV
Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 04-17-2016, 06:48 PM   #21
Junior Member
 
Trailer: Casita 16 ft Spirit Deluxe
Posts: 4
Ransom,
35 amps will be plenty. Your water pump might be 7.+ amps per HOUR but you'll run out of water after a few minutes anyway (3.5 GPM divided by your gallons of fresh water). An amp will probably drain your fresh water tank. There are a lot of good reasons to upgrade a converter IF you need to and that depends on how you're going to be using the rig. Don't worry about figuring it all out, if you RV long enough you'll learn what you need to know.

Bill
Bill Stanton is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2016, 06:54 PM   #22
Raz
Senior Member
 
Raz's Avatar
 
Trailer: Trillium 2010
Posts: 5,185
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ransom View Post
Does that mean that as the monitor displays, for example, solar panel charging current, which for example is really 5 amps, the monitor could display anywhere between 4 and 6 amps?
Correct. An experiment. Set your voltmeter on the 20 v scale and measure your 12 v battery. Now set it on the 200v scale and do the same measurement. Notice you just lost the least significant digit. Higher scale less accuracy. Now try it with a D cell.

Quote:
What is the function of the shunt? Is the monitor measuring a voltage differential across the shunt for some reason? Voltage drop somehow indicates current flow? V=IR maybe?
Current flows through a wire. To measure it, a small resistor is placed in the circuit and the voltage across that resistor is directly proportional to the current. yes, ohms law. The catch is that the resistance needs to be small enough not to become part of the circuit and effect the current you are trying to measure but large enough to give you a readable voltage. With a 100 amp shunt you get a very, very small voltage with the low currents seen with a single battery. . Too small in my opinion.
Raz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2016, 07:07 PM   #23
Senior Member
 
Civilguy's Avatar
 
Name: Mike
Trailer: Escape 21 & Jeep GC 5.7 (Previous 2012 Casita FD17 & 2010 Audi Q5)
Puget Sound, WA
Posts: 1,775
Registry
Carol, yes, ours is a 7345; 7300 series, 45 amps. Casita is apparently now providing a 7155; 30 Amp AC and 55 Amp DC.

Ransom,

Our water pump, a Flojet, apparently draws 5.2 amps. The water pumps in small RV's are generally fixed-speed and run pretty much when the water is flowing. Then they shut off.

Regarding the 45 amp rating, I guess one man's overkill might be another man's security. I am not clear what the peak charging load is with this set-up and can't speak to Casita's reasoning in supplying the 45 amp units, and now apparently 55 amps capacity since 2015.

There are apparently quite a few people that add a more sophisticated battery charger to use with the Parallax in the Casitas. I have also noted that a good number of folks swap out the Parallax for a Progressive Dynamics. The swaps are generally when the originals fail as the PDs cost a bit.

Regarding the availability of information concerning RVs and their equipment, that is why the common wisdom is to buy your third RV first. Starting with molded fiberglass is generally a good choice, but even that doesn't work for everybody. It's all very personal.

By the way, if North Carolina were more conveniently located on the left coast, nearer to where I am, I might own one as the Mrs. and I like their layout. I sure hope it turns out to be the right one for you.
__________________
~ “It’s absurd to divide people into good and bad. People are either charming or tedious.” Oscar Wilde ~
~ “What the human being is best at doing is interpreting all new information so that their prior conclusions remain intact.” Warren Buffett ~

Civilguy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2016, 07:12 PM   #24
Senior Member
 
Carol H's Avatar
 
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Civilguy View Post
Carol, yes, ours is a 7345; 7300 series, 45 amps. Casita is apparently now providing a 7155; 30 Amp AC and 55 Amp DC.

Ra.
Thanks for the conformation - I wasn't sure why I would have that model noted in my phone if it had not been correct.
Carol H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2016, 08:02 PM   #25
Member
 
Name: Ransom
Trailer: plan on buying lil snoozy
Massachusetts
Posts: 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by Raz View Post
Correct. An experiment. Set your voltmeter on the 20 v scale and measure your 12 v battery. Now set it on the 200v scale and do the same measurement. Notice you just lost the least significant digit. Higher scale less accuracy. Now try it with a D cell.


Current flows through a wire. To measure it, a small resistor is placed in the circuit and the voltage across that resistor is directly proportional to the current. yes, ohms law. The catch is that the resistance needs to be small enough not to become part of the circuit and effect the current you are trying to measure but large enough to give you a readable voltage. With a 100 amp shunt you get a very, very small voltage with the low currents seen with a single battery. . Too small in my opinion.
How does that work, Raz...?

If the voltage from the charge controller is, say 14.4 volts (bulk charge level), current flows through the shunt (resistance) and into (through?) the battery.

Trying ohms law, using 99 ohms for the shunt, you get i = .145 amps, and for shunt of 101 ohms you have .143 amps. But actual current at 100 ohms shunt is .144 so accuracy is .001 volt, or 0.69% accuracy, very accurate.

This math can't be right because the battery, at bulk charge, would draw many amps, and, you advise the current reading accuracy is much worse.

Can you explain?
Ransom is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2016, 08:15 PM   #26
Member
 
Name: Ransom
Trailer: plan on buying lil snoozy
Massachusetts
Posts: 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by Civilguy View Post
Carol, yes, ours is a 7345; 7300 series, 45 amps. Casita is apparently now providing a 7155; 30 Amp AC and 55 Amp DC.

Ransom,

Our water pump, a Flojet, apparently draws 5.2 amps. The water pumps in small RV's are generally fixed-speed and run pretty much when the water is flowing. Then they shut off.

Regarding the 45 amp rating, I guess one man's overkill might be another man's security. I am not clear what the peak charging load is with this set-up and can't speak to Casita's reasoning in supplying the 45 amp units, and now apparently 55 amps capacity since 2015.

There are apparently quite a few people that add a more sophisticated battery charger to use with the Parallax in the Casitas. I have also noted that a good number of folks swap out the Parallax for a Progressive Dynamics. The swaps are generally when the originals fail as the PDs cost a bit.

Regarding the availability of information concerning RVs and their equipment, that is why the common wisdom is to buy your third RV first. Starting with molded fiberglass is generally a good choice, but even that doesn't work for everybody. It's all very personal.

By the way, if North Carolina were more conveniently located on the left coast, nearer to where I am, I might own one as the Mrs. and I like their layout. I sure hope it turns out to be the right one for you.
I agree with you Civilguy, it doesn't make sense to upgrade the power capacity of the converter/charger for these fiberglass trailers, unless people are usung some other high current appliances...what could that be, are we missing something?

Or maybe it is because these units put out only a handful of amps for bulk charging, and batteries can safely accept higher current, and the higher rated converters probably allocate more current to charging?

It is curious.

What does it mean "buy your third rv first"....does it mean we tend to not really understand the details of our first purchases (nor of our ultimate needs)? If that"s it, you are so right.

But it is clear why that is the case....the vendors don't explain or document (and often don't know themselves), good knowledge-based recommendations are not given, and customers don't even know what questions to ask.

I think if the trailer manufacturers were to do an excellent design, with cost-effective, truly useful features, most customers would not understand and choose lower cost products from competitors.
Ransom is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2016, 09:08 PM   #27
Junior Member
 
Trailer: Casita 16 ft Spirit Deluxe
Posts: 4
Ransom,
One of the reasons why someone might upgrade their converter/charger is to pump more amps into their batteries like you stated, most of the old converters are only providing 6-8 amps on a old fashion taper charge (hummmm). Newer chargers offer much higher amperage with multi-stage charging that monitor the batteries much closer. They have much cleaner electric, no hum, less RFI and have provisions for AGM and Gel Cell batteries which charge much faster than lead acid batteries.

If you're boondocking a lot for extended periods and running a generator to charge the batteries, upgrading the charger and batteries will probably make sense. If you're weekending and vacationing in RV parks with electric why bother unless there is a problem.

I have no earthly idea why a Casita would need 55 amps? I guess it isn't hurting anything.

Bill

Bill
Bill Stanton is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2016, 09:31 PM   #28
Senior Member
 
Civilguy's Avatar
 
Name: Mike
Trailer: Escape 21 & Jeep GC 5.7 (Previous 2012 Casita FD17 & 2010 Audi Q5)
Puget Sound, WA
Posts: 1,775
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ransom View Post
I agree with you Civilguy, it doesn't make sense to upgrade the power capacity of the converter/charger for these fiberglass trailers
I only said I can't speak to why Casita is supplying these units, not that it doesn't make sense. For different situations it could be a matter of utilized capacity, reserve capacity, better power quality, improved vitality and hair growth...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ransom View Post
What does it mean "buy your third rv first"
I think that old expression acknowledges that it takes time to figure out what you really want and even then it often changes over time. At an extreme, there was a listing for an essentially new molded trailer last year. As I recall, it was stated in the ad to have been used only one night since delivery; the owners decided they would enjoy themselves more in their back yard and listed it for immediate sale.
__________________
~ “It’s absurd to divide people into good and bad. People are either charming or tedious.” Oscar Wilde ~
~ “What the human being is best at doing is interpreting all new information so that their prior conclusions remain intact.” Warren Buffett ~

Civilguy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2016, 09:40 PM   #29
Member
 
Name: Ransom
Trailer: plan on buying lil snoozy
Massachusetts
Posts: 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Stanton View Post
Ransom,
One of the reasons why someone might upgrade their converter/charger is to pump more amps into their batteries like you stated, most of the old converters are only providing 6-8 amps on a old fashion taper charge (hummmm). Newer chargers offer much higher amperage with multi-stage charging that monitor the batteries much closer. They have much cleaner electric, no hum, less RFI and have provisions for AGM and Gel Cell batteries which charge much faster than lead acid batteries.

If you're boondocking a lot for extended periods and running a generator to charge the batteries, upgrading the charger and batteries will probably make sense. If you're weekending and vacationing in RV parks with electric why bother unless there is a problem.

I have no earthly idea why a Casita would need 55 amps? I guess it isn't hurting anything.

Bill

Bill
Bill, when boondocking I'll use solar, no generator. No gas either.

On Amazon the 35 amp Arterras cost more than the 45 amp units. Maybe Casita puts in the larger 55 amp units for marketing reasons, as their oem cost difference is probably negligable.

I have reviewed all published specs for available charge converters and not one has acceptable, truly smart charge parameters.

Iota, for example, does not do a constant
current bulk charge.

None of the conveter chargers let you match the voltage at each charge stage to that correct for your battery.

To save cost these controller chargers simply put the battery on the same circuit as the supply for the load, so they cannot sense what is happening to the battery, so they don't even know what charge parameters to use when. They just guess, set time limits, set fixed voltages for each stage for given class of battery (flooded, marine flooded, renewable energy deep cycle-a good choice for these trailers, AGC, gel).

So we unknowingly lose a year year or two of battery life.

I think there is a much bigger market for the solar chargers, so in that category there are some good options. Also, the solar power systems users are often more technically savvy and know what to look for/demand.
Ransom is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2016, 10:59 PM   #30
Senior Member
 
David B.'s Avatar
 
Name: David
Trailer: Former 13’Scamp, now Snoozy
Arizona
Posts: 2,316
Registry
Ransom, how do you plan on having hot water for showering or cooking while boon docking? We have a generator and only have to run it for about 15 minutes to have enough hot water for the two of us to take showers. I haven't looked into the feasibility of using an inverter to run the water heater, though we camped with "beetlefreak" (FGRV member) this winter and he ran a crock pot off his batteries that were being charged by 400 watts of solar panels.
Dave & Paula
David B. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2016, 11:52 PM   #31
Member
 
Name: Ransom
Trailer: plan on buying lil snoozy
Massachusetts
Posts: 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by David B. View Post
Ransom, how do you plan on having hot water for showering or cooking while boon docking? We have a generator and only have to run it for about 15 minutes to have enough hot water for the two of us to take showers. I haven't looked into the feasibility of using an inverter to run the water heater, though we camped with "beetlefreak" (FGRV member) this winter and he ran a crock pot off his batteries that were being charged by 400 watts of solar panels.
Dave & Paula
David, if yiu arent using an inverter, what are you using with the generator to get your hot water?

In my case, butane burner stovetop to heat water for washing dishes if greasy, otherwise cold water is fine. Advanced Elements Solar Shower for outdoor or in Snoozy shower area for showers, or just sponge bath with bucket and mixture of cold and butane stove heated water.

I have lived 10 years in Mexico and cold showers, washing dishes with cold water, and cold water only in kitchen and bathroom sinks is common. Often I prefer a cold shower.

For the most part I'll stick to warmer climates since the Snoozy doesnt have the insulation for cold climates.

It seems that in a Snoozy configuration 10 days is an approximate comfortable limit for boondocking.

Beyond that the fresh water runs out, the grey water fills, the cassette toilet fills, time to go to the supermarket, the battery may get depleted if there are to many cloudy days (charging the battery from the tow vehicle could allow extending beyond ten days), but if there are reasonable periods of sunshine the battery can go indefinitely with the 100 watt panels.

The only significant draw on the battery is the fridge at 2.2 amps at 50% duty cycle.
Ransom is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2016, 12:07 AM   #32
Senior Member
 
David B.'s Avatar
 
Name: David
Trailer: Former 13’Scamp, now Snoozy
Arizona
Posts: 2,316
Registry
Ransom, when the generator is running it is producing 120 volts, which is what the water heater runs on. The two of us are able to boon dock for 5-6 days before running out of fresh water, and needing to empty the porti-potty.
Dave & Paula
David B. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2016, 03:34 AM   #33
Raz
Senior Member
 
Raz's Avatar
 
Trailer: Trillium 2010
Posts: 5,185
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ransom View Post
How does that work, Raz...?

If the voltage from the charge controller is, say 14.4 volts (bulk charge level), current flows through the shunt (resistance) and into (through?) the battery.

Trying ohms law, using 99 ohms for the shunt, you get i = .145 amps, and for shunt of 101 ohms you have .143 amps. But actual current at 100 ohms shunt is .144 so accuracy is .001 volt, or 0.69% accuracy, very accurate.

This math can't be right because the battery, at bulk charge, would draw many amps, and, you advise the current reading accuracy is much worse.

Can you explain?
You wish to measure the current entering or leaving the battery. You cut one of the wires and place a resistor between the two ends. As current flows, a voltage developes across that resistor. That resistor is the shunt and that voltage is proportional to the current by ohms law, I=V/R. The battery voltage will not be across the shunt , it will be across whatever you are connecting to the battery. The shunt voltage does in fact subtract from the battery voltage but by making the shunt very small the loss is negligible. A typical shunt voltage will be less than 1/10 of a volt. The Bogart shunt is designed to produce 1 millivolt for each amp flowing. That's 0.001 volts for each amp. Further, they seem to suggest you can measure down to 0.01 amps or 10mA. That's micro volts. I'm skeptical.

I couldn't find any accuracy specs on the Bogart site, but 1% of full scale is considered very good for volt meters.

All that said, some folks turn this into a hobby. They have fun building their system. Learn something new. Chat with others.... Nothing wrong with that.

Buying a $200 battery monitor so you can get the most life from a $100 battery even if the data were accurate?
Raz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2016, 06:18 AM   #34
Senior Member
 
Jon Vermilye's Avatar
 
Name: Jon
Trailer: Escape 21C
New York
Posts: 2,387
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ransom View Post
I am wondering, Jon, what happens to the monitor readings if the converter charger and the solar charger are connected to to the battery at the same time.

Or, even if not connected simultaneously, how does the monitor handle power input coming from different sources at different times.

I suspect it will give unreliable results and that to avoid this it would be best to, in general, not connect the battery to the converter charger.

Just not sure if the converter charger loses any capability by not being connected to the battery when running on 120 volts.
If the shunt is properly placed (usually in the negative line as close to the battery as possible so that there are no connections between it & the battery), all current goes through it, whether it comes from the solar controller, the converter or the tow vehicle. The individual currents from the different sources add together, so the shunt sees the total. Same for all current coming out of the battery.

If you have a clip on portable solar panel & connect it directly to the battery, it won't charge through the shunt, so won't be recorded. To accurately keep track of the panel you would need to connect the negative from the solar controller to the non-battery side of the shunt.
Jon Vermilye is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2016, 08:03 AM   #35
Senior Member
 
Johnny M's Avatar
 
Name: John
Trailer: '71 Boler, '87 Play-Mor II
Deep South
Posts: 1,261
Our 30 amp World Friendship converter it has has 2 duplex AC breakers each a 20/15 split) and 4 DC circuits and a main 30 amp reverse polarity protection fuse. Right now the only DC I have is 2 led and 2 incadescent lights (will be replacing soon with LED's), a heng's roof vent fan and our water pump. On the a/c side we run our Emerson refrigerator, a 5000 btu a/c unit or a ceramic heater depending on the season, a toaster oven or skillet and a couple of phone charger. Our Fastair instant water heater runs on propane and 2 "D" size batteries for the ignition. Never blown a fuse or tripped a breaker.
Johnny M is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2016, 04:44 PM   #36
Member
 
Name: Ransom
Trailer: plan on buying lil snoozy
Massachusetts
Posts: 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny M View Post
Our 30 amp World Friendship converter it has has 2 duplex AC breakers each a 20/15 split) and 4 DC circuits and a main 30 amp reverse polarity protection fuse. Right now the only DC I have is 2 led and 2 incadescent lights (will be replacing soon with LED's), a heng's roof vent fan and our water pump. On the a/c side we run our Emerson refrigerator, a 5000 btu a/c unit or a ceramic heater depending on the season, a toaster oven or skillet and a couple of phone charger. Our Fastair instant water heater runs on propane and 2 "D" size batteries for the ignition. Never blown a fuse or tripped a breaker.
so no microwave, right? you can use the toaster oven for toast, no need for a toaster, but how else do you use it?

is it really worth toting around? i also dont think a microwave is worth giving up the space (and weight, they are heavy), but am not sure how useful a toaster oven is (they are light and can be very compact, but how useful?

are they good for baked potatoes?

can you bake a souffle, maybe a small banana bread, an alternative to an oven?
Ransom is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2016, 05:41 PM   #37
Senior Member
 
Jon Vermilye's Avatar
 
Name: Jon
Trailer: Escape 21C
New York
Posts: 2,387
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ransom View Post
so no microwave, right? you can use the toaster oven for toast, no need for a toaster, but how else do you use it?

is it really worth toting around? i also dont think a microwave is worth giving up the space (and weight, they are heavy), but am not sure how useful a toaster oven is (they are light and can be very compact, but how useful?

are they good for baked potatoes?

can you bake a souffle, maybe a small banana bread, an alternative to an oven?
It depends on the size of the toaster oven. I have a 6 slice toaster oven Cruisinart TOB 155 that I can only use when connected to a pedestal (it draws 17 amps @ 120V to start, although once it reaches the set temperature it varies between 0 & 10 amps). As to what I can cook in it - a 12" pizza, blueberry pies from scratch, baked potatoes, a roasted chicken or small roast, frozen burritos, etc. Just about anything that a RV oven can do. I can use in on a table inside, or take it outside on the picnic table in hot weather.

I'm also experimenting with a gas fired Volcano grill combined with a dutch oven to bake with when dry camping.

I carry a 2 slice 900 watt standard toaster that I can use with my 1000 watt inverter to make toast or English muffins when camping without hookups. No microwave...
Jon Vermilye is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2016, 06:37 PM   #38
Senior Member
 
Johnny M's Avatar
 
Name: John
Trailer: '71 Boler, '87 Play-Mor II
Deep South
Posts: 1,261
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ransom View Post
so no microwave, right? you can use the toaster oven for toast, no need for a toaster, but how else do you use it?

is it really worth toting around? i also dont think a microwave is worth giving up the space (and weight, they are heavy), but am not sure how useful a toaster oven is (they are light and can be very compact, but how useful?

are they good for baked potatoes?

can you bake a souffle, maybe a small banana bread, an alternative to an oven?
Ours is a Hamilton Beach located here: http://www.kmart.com/hamilton-beach-...&blockType=G10

We bought it because it has broil, bake and toast functions so we can heat up nearly anything we could do in a microwave (may take longer though) but can also toast bread, cook a pizza or casserole, bake a cake or brownies, etc. I could even broil steaks, chicken, etc. in it. I have never used a microwave much anyway except for reheating a plate or melting butter, tried defrosting meat but didn't like that too much. It takes less space than a microwave too...

Bottom line is I like the flexibility of it for the case of inclement weather where we might need to cook inside...
Johnny M is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2016, 06:38 PM   #39
Senior Member
 
Carol H's Avatar
 
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ransom View Post
so no microwave, right? you can use the toaster oven for toast, no need for a toaster, but how else do you use it?

is it really worth toting around? i also dont think a microwave is worth giving up the space (and weight, they are heavy), but am not sure how useful a toaster oven is (they are light and can be very compact, but how useful?

are they good for baked potatoes?

can you bake a souffle, maybe a small banana bread, an alternative to an oven?
I toted a light weight toaster oven around in my Scamp. Did not take up much space. ... but due to the counter space it used up I also carried a separate toaster which was used far more often than the toaster oven. I mainly used the toaster oven for baking items for FG meet pot lucks ( I do not have a microwave) and for cooking in winter months. I reality I did not use it all that often and only used when plugged in. There are other ways to toast toast or bake items, without eating up precious power.

My new to me trailer has a propane oven and maybe due to the low/no power draw & the fact its not taking up counter space I may find I use it more than the toaster oven or it may be it ends up as just another storage place ;-)
Carol H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2016, 08:26 PM   #40
Member
 
Name: Ransom
Trailer: plan on buying lil snoozy
Massachusetts
Posts: 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carol H View Post
I toted a light weight toaster oven around in my Scamp. Did not take up much space. ... but due to the counter space it used up I also carried a separate toaster which was used far more often than the toaster oven. I mainly used the toaster oven for baking items for FG meet pot lucks ( I do not have a microwave) and for cooking in winter months. I reality I did not use it all that often and only used when plugged in. There are other ways to toast toast or bake items, without eating up precious power.

My new to me trailer has a propane oven and maybe due to the low/no power draw & the fact its not taking up counter space I may find I use it more than the toaster oven or it may be it ends up as just another storage place ;-)
we're a bit off topic, but its interesting and relates to current draw.

the key is to haul the minimum of appliances - weightvand bulk and have maximum flexibility.

I have found can bake banana bread and brownies as well as any oven in a 3 quart slow cooker (adjust for longer cook time). dont need baking dish, just use slow cooker crockery.

If i find it also works in a 2 quart slow cooker, i will buy one for the camper. easy way to bake, cook, cook rice, defrost, provide extra "burner" (heat soups, liquids hot water for iced tea/ice tea) when other burners in use. can haul one less burner. no need for regular oven or extra burner. and, you have a slow cooker.
Ransom is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
AC/DC Koolatron fridge uses 6 amps on DC Radar1 Modifications, Alterations and Updates 5 10-13-2013 06:29 AM
Bigfoot 17CB Amps? Francine P Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 3 06-25-2010 05:15 PM
Installing a digital Amps/Volts Meter peterh Modifications, Alterations and Updates 21 09-10-2009 03:37 PM
Solar charge controller yvonne Care and Feeding of Molded Fiberglass Trailers 24 06-26-2008 05:46 AM
Fluid, Battery Levels & Solar Charge Controller? peterh Electrical | Charging, Systems, Solar and Generators 9 04-27-2007 04:45 PM

» Trailer Showcase

Burro

Anne MP

La Palapa

Paula
» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:19 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.