LED light testing - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-13-2012, 02:48 PM   #29
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Hi Tom. Not trying to give you a hard time, I just wasn't quite sure if maybe you were using the 5 volt regulators instead. A while back there was a discussion on using a 7812. Both drop out and oscillation are issues in my mind. Even the 2940 seems marginal to me, but having never bench tested it I'm not sure how low the input can actually go without loosing regulation. Folks seem to be having fun with this so I don't want to get in the way. Take care, Raz
The 2940 was recommended to me because of a low drop out - i.e. it should still provide close to 12 volts with a 12.5 volt input off a wet cell battery. I'd be interested to hear what you find in your own testing.
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Old 03-13-2012, 05:46 PM   #30
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Here are photos of how I mounted the 48 SMD panel into the Scamp swivel spots. I cut a piece of thin sheetmetal to fit the outline of the smd panel with a 1/2" x 1/2" tab centered on each end. Then I bent the tabs forward to about 45 degrees. The self stick tape on the back of the panels was used to stick them to the sheetmetal. Then I plugged the electrical in and simply pushed the panel into the bucket until both tabs clicked behind the plastic bucket frame. Before fitting the sheet metal to the SMD I trimmed the SMD around all sides so that it would drop into the bucket farther. I used a belt sander for the trimming. You have to be careful not to cut too much or you could remove a circuit trace and render the panel usless. The double sided tape on the back of the board covers the traces and make it hard to see what you are cutting. I am not using any regulator, since the panels are inexpensive, and I hate electrical noise and light strobing. It would be better if the light panels went into the buckets deeper to prevent glare while looking toward the fixture, but that would require the removal of the internal reflector.
Russ
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Old 03-13-2012, 06:00 PM   #31
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Here is another image of the completed spot.
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Old 03-13-2012, 06:12 PM   #32
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The 2940 was recommended to me because of a low drop out - i.e. it should still provide close to 12 volts with a 12.5 volt input off a wet cell battery. I'd be interested to hear what you find in your own testing.


Half a volt is spec. They have to be doing some clever stuff to make that happen since silicon has a barrier potential of .7v. I can't test a 2940 for you. I don't have one in my junk box. I did check several 7812's I had. With 100mA load they all dropped out at about 13.8 V. which tells me when folks who used one of those switch to battery, the lights won't be quite as bright. Raz
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Old 03-13-2012, 07:30 PM   #33
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I took Thomas' advice and ordered 2940's. They are not here yet but I won't be installing them for a while yet. I got enough SMD 48 panels and voltage regulators for all the lights in my B1700 for $30. With the money I saved I got a solar charge controller with a system monitor.
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Old 03-13-2012, 07:42 PM   #34
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I took Thomas' advice ...........
Oh great. Now if it doesn't work out it is my fault.....
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Old 03-13-2012, 08:07 PM   #35
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Oh great. Now if it doesn't work out it is my fault.....
No good deed goes unpunished!

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Old 03-13-2012, 11:18 PM   #36
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I also found that if you google the 2940 part number there are webpages that describe how and why to use the regulator for 12volt circuits. So Thomas can be released from all responsibility here. Very little to go wrong in this case I think.
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Old 03-14-2012, 06:34 AM   #37
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.......... Very little to go wrong in this case I think.

Until Mr. Murphy shows up.
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Old 04-10-2012, 11:45 AM   #38
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Well I just installed some of the new 48 SMD warm white LED panels from asia. I am very pleased with the quality and output of light. I am not normally a fan of incandescent bulbs or cool white LEDs. These are perfect. Side by side with 1141 bulbs they are whiter than incandescent and yet have no blue tinge to them. Next I will install the voltage regulators. And eventually maybe I can get some pics up in another thread to show the details.
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Old 04-11-2012, 11:31 AM   #39
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Just had a nasty surprise with these LED panels. The foam tape on the back of the panels has reacted to the heat produced over several hours by shriveling up into a marshmallow like ball. Then the panel drops off the reflector and lays on the lense where it does a lousy job of providing illumination. Much better when fastened to the reflector. Has no one else had this happen? I have to figure out a better method of attachment. The panels do not get as hot as bulbs but it is still uncomfortable to the touch. Any ideas?
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Old 04-11-2012, 11:39 AM   #40
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Just had a nasty surprise with these LED panels. The foam tape on the back of the panels has reacted to the heat produced over several hours by shriveling up into a marshmallow like ball. Then the panel drops off the reflector and lays on the lens where it does a lousy job of providing illumination. Much better when fastened to the reflector. Has no one else had this happen? I have to figure out a better method of attachment. The panels do not get as hot as bulbs but it is still uncomfortable to the touch. Any ideas?

I made a bracket of thin aluminum (like flashing) with tabs that bend over the panel front slightly on 2 sides. The only function of the foam tape is to insulate the back circuitry from the aluminum and hold it in place until I bent the tabs. I pop riveted this bracket to the light fixture.
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Old 04-11-2012, 12:38 PM   #41
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Thanks Tom, That looks like it works well. I have a bunch of flashing. Is it worthwhile having a pop rivet gun with fiberglass trailers? I see a lot of people swearing at pop rivets here.
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Old 04-11-2012, 03:17 PM   #42
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........ Is it worthwhile having a pop rivet gun with fiberglass trailers? I see a lot of people swearing at pop rivets here.
I've never pop riveted fiberglass, but they work great for metal parts that don't need a lot of strength and aren't likely to need to be taken apart.
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