light upgrade - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-11-2015, 05:47 AM   #1
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Name: Richard
Trailer: 2011 Crossover RVison
New York
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light upgrade

Hey guys,
I want your quick advice. My battery is very poor. Possibly I will change it latter. Now, I want to reduce the electricity consumption somehow. What I plan to start with is to install the lED lamps. Are there any pitfalls when changing the LED lamps?
Thanks
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Old 11-11-2015, 07:41 AM   #2
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Name: Lyle
Trailer: Scamp 13
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None that I'm aware of. I just ordered some from Amazon - a package of 20 bulbs for $24. Buying direct from factory - US based company.

The only caveats are to make sure the base is compatible with your fixtures - look at your current bulbs, they should have a number on them (in my case they were 1141). The listing lists as being compatible with 1141.

Make sure the physical size of the bulb will fit into your fixture.

Finally, choose the color you want, White, Natural, or warm white. They also have red, amber, etc. but you probably won't want those.

Here is what I ordered, should get her tomorrow. Hopefully I considered all the factors. Will let you know. They have good reviews.

Amazon.com: YITAMOTOR 20 X 1156 BA15S 18-SMD RV Camper Warm White LED Light Bulbs Tail Backup 1141 1003: Automotive
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Old 11-11-2015, 08:04 AM   #3
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Light upgrade pitfalls.

Fixture polarity. Some fixtures may be wired with wrong polarity from the factory. The center should be +12. This make no difference with the incandescent bulbs, but it does with the LED's. A cheap multimeter will help you figure it out. Just don't short the wires when probing.
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Old 11-11-2015, 08:07 AM   #4
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Name: Joe
Trailer: 1999 Casita 17' SD
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I've installed these flat panel ones in our Casita. 10 for $17.08 with adapters!
10x Warm White T10 BA15S 1156 LED 48SMD Panel Interior Dome Map RV Trailer Light
I tried the round bulbs like the listed ones above but found since about half of the actual LED's are pointing away from the fixture's lens a lot of light is lost.
With these all of the individual LED's are pointing out
The only thing I've found a problem is the double sided tape provided lets go with heat. 3m automotive Trim tape resolved that. We also prefer the light put out by what some sellers call "bright white", it's not quite cool white but definetly NOT yellow.
Forgot to mention, my battery meter indicates they draw .25 amps per panel.

Yitamotor from the Amazon listing also sells on ebay and is where I got my flat panels.
yitamotor | eBay


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Old 11-11-2015, 10:12 AM   #5
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Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
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I choose a “trusted source” with good quality products even though the cost might be higher than elsewhere. My source was superbrightleds.com, and in the below list I refer to this source as “SBL” and list their part number. Even if you don’t buy from them, they list the specs which might help you. In fact, the Scamp store is probably a fine source for the dome (921 type) and reading light bulbs. All this information is for a 2015 Scamp 16 Std layout 4, YMMV.

The dome lights are all 921 type bulbs with a wedge base. The stove-side dual bulb dome light fixture appears to use lower wattage bulbs than the single sink side dome. They were marked 12 watts and the sink-side bulb had no marking but did draw more current when I check it with a multi-meter. For the dual bulb dome light, bathroom, and sofa area I used SBL part WLED-WWHP9-DAC: Warm White. For the sink-side dome, I used the same bulb, only brighter, SBL part WLED-WWHP12-DAC: Warm White.

Reading lights use an 1141 bulb, 1156 is a replacement and the SBL part I choose was 67-W15: Natural White. It has LEDs facing forward instead of all around like a standard bulb. I preferred the warm light of the original bulb so I kept one in place and use it when on shore power. In fact all the "warm white" LED bulbs are still less "warm" than the bulbs they replaced.

The “porch” light outside the front door, also uses an 1156 and I decided to go with a brighter amber colored bulb since amber light is reported to be less attractive to bugs. SBL part 1156-A27-T: Amber . This was the brightest bulb I bought, and with LEDs you pay for brightness... in this case about $20.

Tail/Brake/Turn is 2057 B14 dual filament, replaced with 1157 bulb (SBL part 1157-R3W-G: Red). Other running lights (marker and second set of tail lights) will be ungraded only after the original bulbs fail.

I choose to leave the front outside light with the original incandescent bulb since it will be turned on only for very short periods of time. I also used a amber LED bulb with little light (30 lumens) in the dome light on the side of the stove-side cabinet for “mood lighting.” It just enough to watch TV by.

Total cost was $100 and while there are cheaper options, I am happy with the quality of these bulbs which is better than some I had bought previously for my pop-up camper.

So the possible downsides are the initial cost, the fact that you might not like the light "color" and not getting the right or best bulb for the application.
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Old 11-12-2015, 01:42 AM   #6
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Name: Richard
Trailer: 2011 Crossover RVison
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul O. View Post
Fixture polarity. Some fixtures may be wired with wrong polarity from the factory. The center should be +12. This make no difference with the incandescent bulbs, but it does with the LED's. A cheap multimeter will help you figure it out. Just don't short the wires when probing.
How do you think is there sense to change all current fixtures? I liked this light fixture https://www.mrosupply.com/lighting/l..._rab-lighting/
Can it be installed?
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Old 11-12-2015, 05:44 AM   #7
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I check to be sure the bulbs are rated something like 12-15vDC. If they're strictly rated for 12v, they can burn out when your converter is charging, charging occurring at 13+ vDC. I lost some to this on the first bulbs I bought.
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Old 11-12-2015, 06:37 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve L. View Post
I check to be sure the bulbs are rated something like 12-15vDC.
I've read here that one member used small and cheap ($2) LM7812 voltage regulators to regulate the converter charging voltage to a constant 12V, to feed some IKEA LED pucks.



The problem I see with the LM7812 is voltage drop: the voltage output is always 1.5 volt lower than input, up to a max a 12V. This means if you want 12V at the ouput, you need at least 13.5V at the input. If the converter puts out 14.5V, the output will be 12V and you're fine, but if you're on battery power only and the battery is down to 11.5V you only get 10V at the LEDs, and they can get quite dim or quit working.

I saw that Low Drop Out (LDO) regulators are available, almost as cheap. LM2940 is a LDO regulator with only 0.5V dropout, and I'm probably going to try them out. Cheap insurance: residential LEDs may handle 14V+, but then they may not.
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Old 11-12-2015, 06:48 AM   #9
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Name: Joe
Trailer: 1999 Casita 17' SD
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Originally Posted by Paul O. View Post
Fixture polarity. Some fixtures may be wired with wrong polarity from the factory. The center should be +12. This make no difference with the incandescent bulbs, but it does with the LED's. A cheap multimeter will help you figure it out. Just don't short the wires when probing.
In this or another group a person had that exact problem with LED's not working.
I asked if maybe the battery polarity might be backwards.

It turned out that it was. I wonder if his converter survived
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