Low Voltage battery cut off???!!! - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-15-2012, 11:38 PM   #15
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For about $35 you can get a VoltMinder (voltminder.com) that will provide an accurate indication of voltage as well as has an alarm that is real noisy when it gets down to the voltage you select.
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Old 06-16-2012, 05:04 AM   #16
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I have gotten in the habit of periodically checking my battery. If you check it when you stop for the night and again in the morning you can easily keep track of how well your system is working. Best to measure right at the battery. Twenty bucks for a multimeter. Raz
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Old 06-17-2012, 05:30 PM   #17
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Thanks for all the suggestions. I have been looking at charge controllers and saw that feature. I'm learning towards a Morningstar 10 amp.

Thing is, all 12V power would need to be wired through the controller?

I'm unclear how the AC to DC charging system would work together with the solar charge controller. And then I'd like a high end AC 12V charger as well, with advanced conditioning/desulfication modes. Ideally there's be one box, or boxes made to work together to do all this. Heck, if it had a 500watt inverter on there too I'd be sold!

Definitely will be looking to find out how it got discharged. I was on AC all winter and thus the battery had at least basic charging/conditioning all the time. It did sit for 3+ days at the shop getting it's new axle and brakes. Perhaps they left lights on. But it had lighting (LED) and I believe a reasonable voltage reading the day I picked it up. And a deeply discharged, if not dead battery the next day.

There's only 20 RV shops within a mile of me this week. So there's help to be had. Hopefully I can find a good one who can help me find some good solar charging and will sort all my electronics issues at the same time.
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Old 06-17-2012, 06:55 PM   #18
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Dylan,

I expect that the Solar 30 solar panel controller I've shown on the following FVR could detecT Battery Voltage and automatically disconnect load when the voltage reaches a preset level. As well the controller allows you to preset the voltage level.

If you don't have solar panels, you would have to trick the controller into believing a panel is attached/

New solar install....
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Old 06-19-2012, 12:18 PM   #19
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I need to tattoo, "K.I.S.S." (Keep it simple stupid!) on my forehead.

I'm not sure what's going on with the meter/the trailer's wiring. But I measured 12.56V at the battery terminals yesterday. (After buying a Battery Tender) So I think the battery is good, I may just have some wiring to debug.

I'll be needing to go over the wiring anyway. I've never been clear on just how the whole thing is wired in front. I've replaced the AC/DC converter/fuse box in back so I know all that wiring OK, but not the wiring around the front. I'll be ripping that area apart in the next few days, so I'll take a look.

Thanks all, I'll still be wanting discharge protection, so all the discussion is still helpful even if I haven't killed the battery.

One more thing. I'd like to add a second battery, hopefully in back by the AC/DC box under the seat. Will this be a pain, using one solar controller on two batteries 8 feet apart? One inside, one outside getting hotter/cooler? Perhaps worth it's own thread, certain a little searching on here. Surely adding a battery has come up before.
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Old 06-19-2012, 12:28 PM   #20
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You may be reading what is called "surface charge". Put a 10 amp load on for 10 minutes and see whats happening when you take the load off.
If the converter is on and charging you should see about 13.2 volts. A charger can only charge if it's voltage is higher than the batteries.
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Old 06-19-2012, 12:29 PM   #21
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It is best to have the controller as close to the battery as possible and not to put a battery inside your unit, unless it is a sealed AGM battery and then you the issue of 2 different types of batteries which means the stronger battery will be limited to the weaker battery. Also it is way easier and economical to wire 2 x 12v next to one another vs the long run of wire back and forth to each battery. The two batteries need to be wired together not separately.
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Old 06-19-2012, 12:41 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Miller View Post
You may be reading what is called "surface charge". Put a 10 amp load on for 10 minutes and see whats happening when you take the load off.
If the converter is on and charging you should see about 13.2 volts. A charger can only charge if it's voltage is higher than the batteries.
Perhaps, but I'm pretty sure the battery is good, the only reason I thought it was bad was my meter in the trailer was reading below 8V (minimum reading) and and I was getting no power to the lights. If I'm reading a lot higher than 8V at the terminals I think I have a wiring issue. I'll put the battery on the charger today and just make sure it goes fully charged and into maintenance mode.
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Old 06-19-2012, 01:08 PM   #23
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It is best to have the controller as close to the battery as possible and not to put a battery inside your unit, unless it is a sealed AGM battery and then you the issue of 2 different types of batteries which means the stronger battery will be limited to the weaker battery. Also it is way easier and economical to wire 2 x 12v next to one another vs the long run of wire back and forth to each battery. The two batteries need to be wired together not separately.
Yeah, I knew it wasn't ideal nor going to be simple if at all workable. I need to get a scale and try to figure out how adding another type 24 to the tongue will affect the weight on the ball. If it's 1:1 than not sure I can afford to add it.

But I'm also thinking, I might replace the battery I have now with an AGM, then I could add another inside. Electrically, some solar charger controllers support two batteries, that might work for charging them both in different locations. The solar charge controller would be inside, about the same wiring distance to both.

I'd love to have the extra capacity, but must keep the tongue weight down for the sake of my receiver. I bent a less well built receiver and don't want to stress test my current one that's held up well so far.
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Old 06-19-2012, 01:37 PM   #24
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Sounds like this might work nicely.

Morningstar Corporation » SunSaver Duo

Morningstar’s SunSaver Duo™ is an advanced PWM two battery controller for RV’s, caravans, boats and cottages. Rated for 25 amps at 12 volts DC, this product will charge two separate and isolated batteries at the same time, such as a "house" and an engine battery, based on user selectable priorities. This controller also includes a backlit remote meter which may be mounted in or on a wall, and displays digital and pictorial status information about the solar power system.
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Old 06-19-2012, 02:52 PM   #25
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The issue is wiring two batteries in parallel so far apart. You would almost have to wire each one separate and use a switch. You lose a lot of volts/amps over long runs of wire.
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Old 06-19-2012, 02:54 PM   #26
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[QUOTE=dylanear;315852]But I'm also thinking, I might replace the battery I have now with an AGM, then I could add another inside. /QUOTE]

If you are replacing 2, consider going 6V you will end up with more amp hours for less $. The 6V tend to be more heavy duty.
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Old 06-19-2012, 03:09 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
The issue is wiring two batteries in parallel so far apart. You would almost have to wire each one separate and use a switch. You lose a lot of volts/amps over long runs of wire.
That charger I linked to does just that. It has two separate charging channels and there are separate settings for each battery. You can control which gets charged first etc.
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Old 06-19-2012, 03:11 PM   #28
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[QUOTE=Roy in TO;315891]
Quote:
Originally Posted by dylanear View Post
But I'm also thinking, I might replace the battery I have now with an AGM, then I could add another inside. /QUOTE]

If you are replacing 2, consider going 6V you will end up with more amp hours for less $. The 6V tend to be more heavy duty.
Two 6V would have to be in series to get 12V, I don't think you'd want two batteries in series 8 feet apart.

But I'll check with the charge controller specs and see if 2 x 6V would work.
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