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08-07-2018, 12:23 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: Escape 21, behind an '02 F250 7.3 diesel tug
Mid Left Coast
Posts: 2,941
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I calculate based on the 80 seconds for a full cycle, and assuming 400 watt power consumption when the motor is running, the 7AH battery should be good for 9 full cycles. it would be trivial to replace this with a larger 12V battery, such as the 20AH, that would triple the cycle count on a charge.
reading and looking it over more carefully, it says to hook solar up to the + and - pins on JX1, next to the AC input pins... the block diagram suggests that the circuit board already has a charge regulator on it, so that would suggest you use a bare bones "12V" solar panel (these typically are 15-20 volts in bright sunlight), and the board will regulate the battery charging. for the 7AH battery, a 10W solar would be fine, for an upgraded 20AH battery, I'd use a 20W panel.
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08-07-2018, 02:37 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Name: John & Gloria
Trailer: Bigfoot 21RB
Florida
Posts: 103
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John, Your patience here is admirable. I contacted the seller and explained that I had seen a specification page on the ad that specifically called out 24 Volts for the motor requirements and now when I look at his ad, that page is not there. He explained that there was some information from a different piece of equipment that had erroneously got included in that ad and was removed as soon as it was discovered. All that designing of the 24v system and schooling me was for naught. Now I owe you a steak dinner if I ever get out to California.
I had looked up the Deltran 15w panel with controller that you mentioned and almost sent for it but decided to wait till I get the opener in-hand. Glad I did because you somehow figured out that there is a controller built in to the gate opener board. So, all I need is a 20 watt solar panel without the controller and connect to the DC + and - at the bottom of the schematic? It's getting simpler.
I just re-read your post and the solar panel gets connected to the + and- next to "AC in" where in figure #16 it says "not used". Is this correct?
Since the battery that comes with the unit is intended only for backup purposes. I wonder if I would be smart to install a Panasonic like you mentioned so the housing and pad space will be correct? Whats your thought on the quality/longevity of the China battery it is equipped with?
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08-07-2018, 02:59 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: Escape 21, behind an '02 F250 7.3 diesel tug
Mid Left Coast
Posts: 2,941
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well, a 20AH is considerably bigger than a 7AH, so it might not fit in the given space.
I'd go ahead and install it, see how it works, THEN worry about it, if its a problem.
Since you're in communications with the manufacturer, I'd ask them for solar panel size and voltage recommendations...
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08-07-2018, 03:13 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Name: John & Gloria
Trailer: Bigfoot 21RB
Florida
Posts: 103
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OK, I will see what space is available inside that housing. I was thinking of placing the battery in a separate housing, setting on the same foundation pad so I could even use a marine/auto type battery. I did finally find the reference to the solar connection. It goes to the + and - in the JX5 block. Thanks so much for helping me John.
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08-09-2018, 12:39 AM
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#25
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Senior Member
Name: Peter
Trailer: G30 Elite Class C
British Columbia
Posts: 1,510
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Quote:
Originally Posted by halfhitch
I am in need of some advice about building a solar system to operate a 24 volt gate opener. I know it is not for my RV directly but it is for the gate that encloses the carport where the Bigfoot will live while at home. Here is the gate.
Attachment 123062
This is the shed where the Bigfoot will live. Ignore the ratchet straps, that was when hurricane Irma was coming and I needed proof for the insurance that I tried.
The gate opener is on its way so I need to figure out how to develop 24 volts using solar to charge deep cycle batteries. I know very little about solar and am hoping someone can point me to some products that will do the job without breaking the bank. The gate will not be opened a lot. Sometimes it will be days and days when it doesn't open, so I don't think I need large panels. I know I need to wire 2, 12v batteries in series to get 24v but other than that I have questions about the solar part. Like.....
__Should I have two separate 12v panels, each charging one 12v battery?
__Do I need a controller? What do they do?
__If there is no controller what senses when the batteries are fully charged and stops charging.
__Is there such a thing as a 24v solar panel that will charge both batteries while in series?
So you see that I am clueless, pretty much. If anyone can get me plumbed up on what I need I would sure appreciate it.
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:good you do not live in snow country as that width would crush with 2' of wet snow on it. But being as your in Florida you will never have a problem.
Why do you not go to your local Solar Dealer and ask them those same questions as they will give you a good deal on a panel and Mono is the best kind of panel for charging I use a 200W panel which gives me around 10 Amps a hour when sun is shine directly down on it but I'm like you I work in Amps and Watts and KW's not Volts but the dealer will understand.
I always find out if one deals with the dealer and his installer you get it done right.
stude
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08-09-2018, 01:57 AM
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#26
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: Escape 21, behind an '02 F250 7.3 diesel tug
Mid Left Coast
Posts: 2,941
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volts * amps = watts
volts / ohms = amps
nuff said?
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08-09-2018, 06:26 AM
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#27
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Senior Member
Name: John & Gloria
Trailer: Bigfoot 21RB
Florida
Posts: 103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stude
:good you do not live in snow country as that width would crush with 2' of wet snow on it. But being as your in Florida you will never have a problem.
Why do you not go to your local Solar Dealer and ask them those same questions as they will give you a good deal on a panel and Mono is the best kind of panel for charging I use a 200W panel which gives me around 10 Amps a hour when sun is shine directly down on it but I'm like you I work in Amps and Watts and KW's not Volts but the dealer will understand.
I always find out if one deals with the dealer and his installer you get it done right.
stude
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stude, I know what you mean about the snow load factor on my boat shed. I used to live in Montana and we would have to shovel the roofs of the house and outbuildings occasionally through the winter.
Talking about the local solar dealers, I went in to a nearby business and showed them what I had in mind and ask for them to recommend/sell me the things I need to get my gate going. Their response was that they would have to send a guy out to look over the site before they could "design" a system. That service call was going to be a minimum of $80. Their attitude sent me packing. I might not be too bright but I built the fence and I built the gate so I didn't see why I couldn't install some plug and play components if I could just figure out what I needed. When I worked, I used to keep a 1500 HP diesel electric bucket dredge running so I figured a little 1/2 HP gate opener wasn't going to kick my a**. John in Santa Cruz on this board jumped in to help me. Initially I misunderstood the needs of the opener but before I got to the point of purchasing the items, John had looked up the specifications on his own and deduced that the installation was much simpler than what I had tried to make it. He saved me much grief and expense and educated me to some extent along the way. The local solar company was only interested in my bank account, not in helping me. This is Florida. Land of the Scams. As it is now, the gate opener is on its way and the solar panel is on its way so things are coming together.
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08-09-2018, 12:06 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: Escape 21, behind an '02 F250 7.3 diesel tug
Mid Left Coast
Posts: 2,941
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yeah, the solar biz is about as bad as the RV repair industry.
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08-11-2018, 09:30 AM
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#29
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Senior Member
Name: John & Gloria
Trailer: Bigfoot 21RB
Florida
Posts: 103
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John, I know just what you mean about the RV repair outfits. The main RV sales/repair place near me here in Florida has a sign on the wall now stating the shop rate is $149.99 per hr. Blows my mind. I have never had any work done there but when you read the online reviews from people that have, it is sobering for sure.
Just to update you on my progress on my gate opener....I received the opener and a 10 watt solar panel. I am not to the wiring stage yet but I wanted to get it clear in my mind which lugs I will be connecting the solar panel to on the opener, so I sent an email to the support group for the opener stating that I thought it would be lugs #9 & 10.
I sent them a picture of the wording in their manual and of the actual connection bar on the opener. They responded that they recommend that I not backfeed 12v through the circuit board but use a separate controller and go directly to the battery. I am attaching the same pictures here.
I found a mini controller from Deltran That should work fine and I may be able to snuggle it into the existing housing. What do you think of that plan?
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08-15-2018, 02:37 PM
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#30
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Junior Member
Name: Lee
Trailer: Looking
TN
Posts: 25
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No trailer, just thinking, reading, impressed with the helpers!
I really enjoyed reading every word of this thread! What a great site. When "neighbors" like John In Santa Cruz take their time to help a "neighbor" in Florida and obviously spend some time to look up information on the web to be sure he has the right info it is heart-warming. How fortunate that John found a discrepancy and advised Half Hitch, who then contacted the manufacturer who admitted it's info was wrong but now corrected. Half Hitch then, with John's help, realized he could save a substantial portion of his anticipated expenditure because much of the intended purchases were simply not needed. I'm getting more serious about a trailer every day!
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08-15-2018, 08:52 PM
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#31
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Junior Member
Name: Allen
Trailer: Currently Shopping
Minnesota
Posts: 17
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I read through the thread, and maybe I missed it, but why don’t you just trench a 120VAC line out to the gate and skip solar all together? Is it distance? I realize trenching a wire is not cheap, but the end result would be reliable. Also could add outlets along the way for other uses (fountains, etc.).
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08-16-2018, 06:28 AM
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#32
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Senior Member
Name: John & Gloria
Trailer: Bigfoot 21RB
Florida
Posts: 103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alben
I read through the thread, and maybe I missed it, but why don’t you just trench a 120VAC line out to the gate and skip solar all together? Is it distance? I realize trenching a wire is not cheap, but the end result would be reliable. Also could add outlets along the way for other uses (fountains, etc.).
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Alben, Yes, I know that is an option and I did consider doing it that way. It's about 100 feet from the nearest power which is do-able. The trench would be right through grass that I have been pampering to get it to grow and it finally is and since the sun power down here is considerable I just desided to try the solar route, so that is what the discussion was about. What Lee, the previous poster mentioned about the help I received from the members here is spot on. John of Santa Cruz especially. A good group for sure.
If this solar set up doesn't work and I wind up digging that 100 foot ditch. I will come back here so you can give me a good "I told you so" whoopin'.
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11-26-2018, 03:34 PM
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#33
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Senior Member
Name: John & Gloria
Trailer: Bigfoot 21RB
Florida
Posts: 103
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I got the gate working quite awhile back and forgot to update my progress here. I made a video with my phone and there is a strange whistling noise on the video so turn your sound down.
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11-26-2018, 06:24 PM
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#34
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: Escape 21, behind an '02 F250 7.3 diesel tug
Mid Left Coast
Posts: 2,941
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the white nylon tiewraps will likely crack and fail within a year of sun exposure... I always use the black ones on outdoor applications, they are UV resistant.
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11-27-2018, 08:42 AM
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#35
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Senior Member
Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Florida
Posts: 2,445
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You can also buy stainless steel ty wraps and they will last longer than the black and especially the white in the brutal Florida SUN.
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11-27-2018, 11:34 AM
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#36
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Senior Member
Name: John & Gloria
Trailer: Bigfoot 21RB
Florida
Posts: 103
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Those zip ties were just a temporary setup till I got everything working. I do plan to protect that wire from the sun. In short order the hide will start crumbing off that insulation. I plan to split a piece of 2 inch PVC and cap it over the wire then use the stainless zip ties you mentioned to hold it in place on the vertical pipe holding the solar panel. For the bottom portion I will just rip an opening on the side of 2" PVC just big enough to slip the wire in. That way a wayward string trimmer can't shut me down and mother natures UV generator will be held at bay for a time.
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11-27-2018, 03:16 PM
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#37
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: Escape 21, behind an '02 F250 7.3 diesel tug
Mid Left Coast
Posts: 2,941
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yeah, I'd probably try to feed the wire through the pole...
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