Need help picking breaker box - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-20-2016, 04:59 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Timber Wolf View Post
Steve is correct about a main breaker being desirable, but then most (all?) of our little trailers never had one, and never will..
My scamp 2014 has 30A main circuit breaker. Factory default.
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Old 04-20-2016, 05:28 PM   #16
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I have a converter box with AC circuit breakers and DC Fuses. A Main circuit breaker and service circuit breakers at 15 Amps each. I do use the 15 Amp campground breaker at the supply pedestal and have always found the switch to work. As far as triping the breaker it has only happened when I ran the Air Conditioner and Microwave at the same time. That happened once so I learned from that event to never do it again to prevent overloading the extension cord that runs from the outside of the camper to the 15 Amp receptacle at the pedestal. our Camper is properly protected as all wiring inside the camper meets the 30 Amp requirement.
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Old 04-20-2016, 06:37 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Bluetang99 View Post
I'm redoing both 120 and 12. I really like that one you mentioned, I didn't remember it being only $60 so that would eliminate the need for a 12 volt fuse box which is at least $30 also. That's a good price and I might just go with that.

Where do you have it mounted and it also charges the 12 volt battery correct?
That's only the 30 amp fuse panel for the Progressive Converter.
You need the whole converter and yes they also charge the batery and some have more advanced smart chargers.
Here's another prand without the enclosure and door.
Amazon.com: Parallax Power Supply 6730 30 Amp Electronic Converter/Charger: Automotive
Here's a complete unit.
Parallax 6730D 30 Amp AC and DC All in One Converter w Circuit Breaker and Door | eBay
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Old 04-20-2016, 09:41 PM   #18
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Name: Steve Robison
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Originally Posted by Joe Romas View Post
That's only the 30 amp fuse panel for the Progressive Converter.
You need the whole converter and yes they also charge the batery and some have more advanced smart chargers.
Here's another prand without the enclosure and door.
Amazon.com: Parallax Power Supply 6730 30 Amp Electronic Converter/Charger: Automotive
Here's a complete unit.
Parallax 6730D 30 Amp AC and DC All in One Converter w Circuit Breaker and Door | eBay
Ok gotcha. That does bump the price up significantly. I don't think I really have a use for a convertor, I might just hook up a battery charger and wire it into the 12 volt circuit.

I think it will be there least expensive option and when I plug in to park power the battery charger will supply my 12 volt needs. There only thing I will be running on 12 volt is approximately 5 led lights. Hopefully a few years down the road a 12 volt fridge when prices come down.
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Old 04-21-2016, 07:43 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Bluetang99 View Post
...

I think it will be there least expensive option and when I plug in to park power the battery charger will supply my 12 volt needs. There only thing I will be running on 12 volt is approximately 5 led lights. Hopefully a few years down the road a 12 volt fridge when prices come down.
Seems to me that you are referring to a battery charger being used pretty much just like a converter, so its almost just a matter of semantics.

It is correct that the photo I shared is only the breaker box / fuse panel (AKA Power Distribution Panel). See this link. It marries with the Progressive Converter. The converter plugs into a standard 120 VAC outlet in the distribution panel and the converter output is wired to the battery and internal Scamp wiring so that you can run your 12 VDC stuff off the converter (when on shore power) OR the battery.

I have Scamp 16 Layout 4 with larger fridge and the panel is mounted under the cabinet where the smaller fridge would normally be. I can't say for sure the location is the same for most Scamps but I suspect it is. The converter is mounted only a foot or so away, in the space under the port side dinette seat. The shore power connection is also here (yes, having it on the starboard side like you do must be a pain!)

One thing I like about this arrangement is that there is a separate AC breaker for the Converter. In the two months or so since I installed Solar and have been experimenting with it, I don't think I have turned this breaker on at all. (I can get 120 VAC in the trailer when on shore power with the converter still turned off via breaker).

Let me know if you want further info or pics on how Scamp did my rig.

With shipping cost added, you might be able to get this stuff cheaper somewhere other than Scamp.. its worth comparing prices.

This Scamp wiring diagram does not clearly show how the current separate converter and panel are wired, but perhaps the rest of it would be of some help.

In this photo the converter is the silver box on the right, next to a PD Energy Management System box.
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Old 04-21-2016, 08:33 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by Bluetang99 View Post
...and would fit under the scamp's sink area...
I may be a bit of a Nervous Nelly but this doesn't seem, to me, to be a good location to mount an electrical panel.
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Old 04-21-2016, 09:35 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Steve L. View Post
I may be a bit of a Nervous Nelly but this doesn't seem, to me, to be a good location to mount an electrical panel.
How about running all the 120 VAC wires, 12 VDC wires, water pipes, trailer running lights and gas lines together in a bundle, and then run that bundle right under city water inlet? And then mount the converter (which is not sealed in any way against water) also pretty much right under the city water inlet?

Yet that is what they do. Note the water inlet next to the shore power inlet in my photo. But I agree, water and electric do not mix well and best option is to keep them separate. Its easier to get a leak in the sink drain.
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Old 04-21-2016, 09:47 AM   #22
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How about running all the 120 VAC wires, 12 VDC wires, water pipes, trailer running lights and gas lines together in a bundle, and then run that bundle right under city water inlet? And then mount the converter (which is not sealed in any way against water) also pretty much right under the city water inlet?

Yet that is what they do. Note the water inlet next to the shore power inlet in my photo. But I agree, water and electric do not mix well and best option is to keep them separate. Its easier to get a leak in the sink drain.
Bundling wires / cables with gas lines is not a recommended practice . A break in the electrical insulation could cause arcing to the gas line which is grounded or current being carried on the gas line. When burying gas lines and electrical wiring in the ground a seperation is required .In residential applications you do not find gas lines run through the same holes as wiring or cables supported or bundled to the gas lines . In our area you never see gas lines and electrical buried in the same trench. Wiring in proximity to water lines is really not a big issue because there is little chance of water starting a fire or exploding .
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Old 04-21-2016, 11:34 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by gordon2 View Post
Seems to me that you are referring to a battery charger being used pretty much just like a converter, so its almost just a matter of semantics.

It is correct that the photo I shared is only the breaker box / fuse panel (AKA Power Distribution Panel). See this link. It marries with the Progressive Converter. The converter plugs into a standard 120 VAC outlet in the distribution panel and the converter output is wired to the battery and internal Scamp wiring so that you can run your 12 VDC stuff off the converter (when on shore power) OR the battery.

I have Scamp 16 Layout 4 with larger fridge and the panel is mounted under the cabinet where the smaller fridge would normally be. I can't say for sure the location is the same for most Scamps but I suspect it is. The converter is mounted only a foot or so away, in the space under the port side dinette seat. The shore power connection is also here (yes, having it on the starboard side like you do must be a pain!)

One thing I like about this arrangement is that there is a separate AC breaker for the Converter. In the two months or so since I installed Solar and have been experimenting with it, I don't think I have turned this breaker on at all. (I can get 120 VAC in the trailer when on shore power with the converter still turned off via breaker).

Let me know if you want further info or pics on how Scamp did my rig.

With shipping cost added, you might be able to get this stuff cheaper somewhere other than Scamp.. its worth comparing prices.

This Scamp wiring diagram does not clearly show how the current separate converter and panel are wired, but perhaps the rest of it would be of some help.

In this photo the converter is the silver box on the right, next to a PD Energy Management System box.
Thanks for the pic. I do really like that fuse panel as I can mount it somewhere on my fiberglass fixtures right instead of under the sink. So you say there is a dedicated outlet on the progressive panel to hook up the converter or did you just use an empty breaker spot wire it in?

I have been searching for a better price but so far no luck. Scamp seems to have reasonable prices but their shipping costs are quite high.
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Old 04-21-2016, 01:41 PM   #24
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Check here for new and used items.
60 Amp Elixir Industries RV Power Converter (NEW)

It does not contain breaker or fuses.
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Old 04-21-2016, 03:42 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Bluetang99 View Post
Thanks for the pic. I do really like that fuse panel as I can mount it somewhere on my fiberglass fixtures right instead of under the sink. So you say there is a dedicated outlet on the progressive panel to hook up the converter or did you just use an empty breaker spot wire it in?
There is a single 120 VAC outlet in the panel. The converter plugs into it from the back where it is hidden. Some people have reported the plug can fall out, causing the converter to shutdown. That has not happened to me (yet).
This is the way my Scamp came from the factory. You would need to check the specs and details to make sure the receptacle is part of the panel (I guess they customize it for different camper manufacturer's specs).
See Pic.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluetang99 View Post
I have been searching for a better price but so far no luck. Scamp seems to have reasonable prices but their shipping costs are quite high.
True that!
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Old 04-26-2016, 11:08 PM   #26
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Name: Steve Robison
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Originally Posted by gordon2 View Post
There is a single 120 VAC outlet in the panel. The converter plugs into it from the back where it is hidden. Some people have reported the plug can fall out, causing the converter to shutdown. That has not happened to me (yet).
This is the way my Scamp came from the factory. You would need to check the specs and details to make sure the receptacle is part of the panel (I guess they customize it for different camper manufacturer's specs).
See Pic.


True that!
Did you run a ground wire through the floor to the Scamp frame by any chance?
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Old 04-28-2016, 05:56 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by Bluetang99 View Post
Did you run a ground wire through the floor to the Scamp frame by any chance?
I believe that Scamp did run a ground wire to the frame for the 12 VDC side. I would have to pull the panel to verify but I really don't want to do that right now.

On a related note, the ground wire from the brakes goes to the frame where it is subject to corrosion. At some point I might run the brake ground to the inside and wire it direct to the ground buss.
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