Need help troubleshooting a non-working converter

[Ttocs M]

How does one troubleshoot a converter that has stopped working? I have a 2005 13 ft Scamp Deluxe and believe it is the original converter.

I'd like to ID the problem as it is a month's wait to get into the RV repair shop for costly repairs/replacement. I just don't know where to begin - not electrically inclined.

While spring camping at a FRG rally, my converter fan sounded unusually loud and never turned off. I had to flip the converter switch off to get some sleep, and switched back on during the day.
I camped another week using shore power, then plugged into 110 at home for several days before my second trip. On trip 2, first 3 days on shore power, then dry camping for 2 more days. On day two, I had no 12 v power.

Now what do I do?

[Casita Greg]

First things first. It would help a great deal if you could expound on a few things. What brand and model number is your existing converter?

Are you sure that you have a good battery?

Have you taken it up to the local auto parts store and have them run a load test on it to confirm that it is still good? (They do it for free by the way.)

Are you sure your circuit breakers in the panel aren't off or tripped?

Have you checked to make sure the two 30 Amp reverse polarity fuses in the panel are both good, as well as all the rest of the 12 volt fuses?

Do your 12 vdc circuits, (such as your trailer's interior lights for example,) work when you are hooked up on shore power?

Do they work when you are just on battery power?

Is your battery receiving at least 13.5 volts of charging current (when read across the terminals) on a Volt Meter when you are hooked up to shore power?

There may possibly be other issues beyond those mentioned above, but checking these first would be a good place to start troubleshooting. At least ruling these out would help narrow down your list of possible problems.

It is more common than a lot of folks think to have their converter go bad. Usually the problem is in the lower end of the converter box, and it is generally a replaceable component. All is not lost if your lower converter unit is toast because there are many newer ones which are better than the old "dumb charger" technology of several years ago. If you do find that you need a new lower section, I would recommend one of these. They are minimal work to swap out the old one with these. I upgraded to this one about 3 years ago and it's been great.

PD4645V 45 Amp Converter Upgrade W/Optional Remote Pendant

[Darwin Maring]

Mine went bad and nothing inside is marked and i could not find a schmetic and i contacted the manufacture and they do not repair so i bought a new one.
RV Parts, RV Accessories RV Supplies Priced Low
https://www.tristatesurplusllc.com/
RV Parts & Accessories Texas, USA | Tweetys.com

[BARNEYCONE]

If your unit is by progreesive dymaneics {sis} they are most helpfully.
Good luck,
bbc ii

[stevebaz]

Take some pictures and post them of the battery and its connections.
Take a picture of the front cover of your converter and another close up picture of the panel with the cover removed. Make sure your 120 volt cord is unplugged. Now someone may be able to point out wht items need to be checked.

Without knowing your particular trailer there are some common problem areas with regards to the power system in your Scamp.

Scamp uses RV wiring and not auto wiring connection at the battery. Black is 12 Volt DC + while White is 12 volt DC -. Scamp likes to use a fuse in the black line right at the battery. this fuse commonly get blown with bad wiring hook-up.

If you don,t have a forward Bath model there may be another fuse right inside the shell of the trailer on the drivers side lower seating compartment.

Earlier trailers had a 120 volt breaker panel under the sink and from there a duplex outlet where they plugged stuff like the fridge into. This is a common problem where stuff wiggles loose and unplugs itself. Not knowing your trailer the converter could just be plugged into that.

do you have a 120 volt ac / 12 volt DC multimeter and know the basics on how to use one?

https://www.harborfreight.com/ac-dc-...ter-37772.html

[Paul O.]

Lots of good advice already, so I just might add that if it is American Enterprises, Inc. model CS2000XL, you can get a brand new one, cheap and it will be one-to-one replacement. That is what mine was in my 2004 Scamp. Go to keithsrvsurplus.com

A one-to-one replacement is the easiest to do and with the help of a friend you could manage.

New ones seem to be between $150 and $250, this one, being surplus, was about $70!

[Casita Greg]

The only problem with those surplus units, and the reason they're so cheap, is because they're selling you outdated technology. A lot of that stuff belongs in a display at the Smithsonian. If you're going to replace a converter, it makes no sense to a me to replace it with another "dumb" charger.

Buy a new one, with a 4-stage battery charger and new circuitry and you'll be money ahead in the long run. The replacement lower units are a "drop-in" replacement as well, so there really isn't a good reason not to buy the latest and greatest.

[Paul O.]

well, here is a better link, via e-bay:
RV trailer American 2000 POWER CONVERTER 12 volt NEW | eBay
I hope it works.

[Paul O.]

Originally Posted by Casita Greg

The only problem with those surplus units, and the reason they're so cheap, is because they're selling you outdated technology. A lot of that stuff belongs in a display at the Smithsonian. If you're going to replace a converter, it makes no sense to a me to replace it with another "dumb" charger.

Buy a new one, with a 4-stage battery charger and new circuitry and you'll be money ahead in the long run. The replacement lower units are a "drop-in" replacement as well, so there really isn't a good reason not to buy the latest and greatest.

All that may be true, Greg, but here we are talking about just making the same thing work, not upgrading. If I get ten more years out of the one I bought for $70, I feel I am ahead.

If I was replacing the battery with something fancy and getting a 250W solar array, then we are talking a different game altogether. I think the OP just wants this thing to work again. Old circuits are not necessarily bad circuits. (I don't think my circuits are bad only because they have been in use for a few ((make it many)) decades.)

[Byron Kinnaman]

Originally Posted by M Scott

How does one troubleshoot a converter that has stopped working? I have a 2005 13 ft Scamp Deluxe and believe it is the original converter.

I'd like to ID the problem as it is a month's wait to get into the RV repair shop for costly repairs/replacement. I just don't know where to begin - not electrically inclined.

While spring camping at a FRG rally, my converter fan sounded unusually loud and never turned off. I had to flip the converter switch off to get some sleep, and switched back on during the day.
I camped another week using shore power, then plugged into 110 at home for several days before my second trip. On trip 2, first 3 days on shore power, then dry camping for 2 more days. On day two, I had no 12 v power.

Now what do I do?

Would you attempt to trouble shoot your television, VCR, DVR Player, or maybe you smart phone or computer. If the NO they why do you think you troubleshoot a converter?

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman

Would you attempt to trouble shoot your television, VCR, DVR Player, or maybe you smart phone or computer.

Maybe, Whats a VCR? (), Yes *, no and yes **.

Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman

If the NO they why do you think you troubleshoot a converter?

Huh?

---
* In fact I added a second hard drive and network card to a Tivo.
** A Plus certified.. I've built and repaired more computers than I can recall.

[Byron Kinnaman]

Originally Posted by gordon2

Maybe, Whats a VCR? (), Yes *, no and yes **.



Huh?

---
* In fact I added a second hard drive and network card to a Tivo.
** A Plus certified.. I've built and repaired more computers than I can recall.

Some people might be capable of trouble shooting something that's pretty simple like a converter, others no. Most people here don't have the skills required to understand Kirchhoff', Ohm's Law, or the power law. They a misconception that because you can't get shocked from 12Volts it's ok to mess with it. Many automobile fires are caused by failures of a 12 volt device. My point is if you don't understand how electricity works stay away from it is a good policy.
This one of the reasons I bought new, I didn't want to undo the mistakes somebody else made in their attempt at wiring. I did that once for a guy with a tent trailer. What a mess.

[Ttocs M]

Thanks for all the good advice...am working on it. My 2005 Scamp has the front bathroom. It has the original American 82000XL converter. I assume this is a 30 amp??

Interior lights do not work when connected to shore power (only fluorescent over sink works), nor do the sink and bathroom water pumps work on shore power.

Recharged the battery (it's on a battery tender now), will reconnect, retest voltage and recheck all fuses.

If that doesn't work, guess I'm shopping for a new converter to be installed by trailer repair shop.

Looks like Progressive Dynamics makes 45 Amp (PD4645V) and 35 Amp (PD4635V), and a PD9130 35 amp model.

Suggestions for an appropriate replacement? No plans for solar (no sun in Oregon) and no room on roof for air conditioner (no plans for hot, crowded summer travels - only spring/fall). Will the 45 amp fit and be a good replacement, or should I stick to 30-35 amp?

Thanks for all your suggestions to help me get this egg on the road.