Need help with exterior 110 power outlet install - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-14-2012, 09:39 PM   #15
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Carol, you could mount it anywhere if you screw 1 side of the angle to the bottom of the floor and the box to the other side of the angle or just locate the box face down inside the frame drill through it to mount the bottom of the box to the bottom of the floor with screws through butyl tape. Drill through the floor to run your wire at a convenient location and seal it using a good mastic. you will have to get down on your knees to plug it in though which is why I chose the bumper. the Tongue area will work too and if you have square tubing you can use metal screws through the box to attach it to the frame either top side or bottom, the box I bought will fit flat. the small holes won't compromise anything.At lowes the box comes in several styles and colors and is located in a special area of the electrical section dealing with outdoor fixtures.
Michael J.
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Old 08-14-2012, 10:21 PM   #16
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Carol, you could mount it anywhere if you screw 1 side of the angle to the bottom of the floor and the box to the other side of the angle Michael J.
Thanks Michael another cleaver idea! That might do the trick... might use rivets rather than screws though, I have been know to drive on rough roads and have seen to many screws in the trailer work there way loose with time. Will check Lowes as well while south.
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Old 08-15-2012, 01:47 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Carol H View Post
Thanks Michael another cleaver idea! That might do the trick... might use rivets rather than screws though, I have been know to drive on rough roads and have seen to many screws in the trailer work there way loose with time. Will check Lowes as well while south.
Just in the way of general info.
Loctite (blue) will lock screws or nuts if applied to the threads, and release fairly easily with a little heat. The red is high temp and harder to break free if you need to remove later.

Worked pretty well on my old Triumph motorcycle, and that thing could vibrate your kidneys into your back pockets in a hundred miles of smooth road.
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Old 08-15-2012, 07:56 PM   #18
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Carol:below are pictures of how I attached 1 of my 12V outlets to the frame. the box could screw directly to the angle. this happens to be SS angle, I think I have a piece left if you are interested. it is tough to drill but is good stuff.
Michael J.
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DSC00554.jpg   DSC00555.jpg  

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Old 08-15-2012, 11:45 PM   #19
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Thanks Micheal - that could indeed be used to secure it to the floor inside. Also thanks for your offer of your spare piece by I suspect the gas for me to collect it would out weigh the gain I am actually attending a vintage rally in Washington State tomorrow and it will be full of all sorts of retro fit experts who if history repeats itself will be looking for a project. Last year at the start of the meet someone discovered an old 1960's trailer buried under blackberries in a field a few miles from where we were - someone went on the Friday and convinced the owner to sell it for $400 - had been sitting for well over 20 years & had a homeless person living in it at one point - so as you can imagine it wasnt a pretty sight - after two days it had been power washed (LOL one of the folks actually had one with them) totally cleaned out of junk inside, new wheel bearings, tires, new electrical run through it and an old fridge brought back from death and all the crank windows were working. By Saturday night the person who bought it actually had to rope it off and beg people to stop working on fixing stuff! LOL I have packed the parts I have and the tools and I am hoping that my little project will be just what someone needs to keep themselves amused for a few hours. Never hurts to be hopeful
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Old 08-16-2012, 06:12 AM   #20
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Carol I would send it to you for the postage. I had no intent of you driving all the way to Indiana to pick it up, of course if you did I would probably install your outlet.
Michael J
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Old 08-16-2012, 08:41 AM   #21
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I have used the metal reno box successfully, in fact it is what is used in a new installation at Escape. With a good waterproof cover, there is nothing to worry about. It was less than 30 minutes for me to cut the hole, and install the box and plug. I did add a bit of sealant to the gasket on the cover to assure a good seal.
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Old 08-16-2012, 09:49 AM   #22
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I have used the metal reno box successfully, in fact it is what is used in a new installation at Escape. With a good waterproof cover, there is nothing to worry about. .
Thanks Jim, for confirming that the metal ones have been use! I bought one as I couldnt find a plastic one that would work as well, but then thought I had better check first if it was ok to use.
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Old 08-16-2012, 07:30 PM   #23
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Hi Carol,
I used one of these, no box needed, took a wire from the GFI I installed under the sink: Product Datasheet -- HBL61CM65

$29 at Amazon.
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Old 08-16-2012, 10:20 PM   #24
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boxes

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Originally Posted by Dennis Clinton View Post
Is the outside box going to be flush or exterior mounted? If it's flush, you can use any of the new plastic boxes(they make a remodel or retrofit box that will clamp to the siding), then use a waterproof cover on the outside. If using an exterior mount, you can get a waterproof box with flanges on the back to screw to the walls. I prefer the flush mount, but have thought of mounting an exterior box under the trailer.
Not sure of your box your are tapping from. On my Scamp, I could break the tab off from the inside of the box.
Be sure to use a gfi duplex for the exterior.
They make single gang cut in boxes in blue plastic (Carlon), beige fiberglass (Allied) ,and brown fiber ( T&B or Sylvania) They are made to be cut into existing walls (Remodels) and have various mounting brackets (systems) that can be tightened from the front and accommodate different wall thicknesses. (IE 3/8" rock -1/2" rock - 5/8" rock 3/4"wood panels) Remodel boxes come with cable clamps for securing the cable because there is no way to secure the cable to a wall stud when the wall is already finished. Beware that because of the design of the box , internal cable clamps and shallow depth of the box that a GFCI receptacle will be a very tight fit and you would be best to run only one cable into the box
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Old 08-16-2012, 10:32 PM   #25
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Grounding box

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Thanks Jim, for confirming that the metal ones have been use! I bought one as I couldnt find a plastic one that would work as well, but then thought I had better check first if it was ok to use.
Make sure you bond (attach) the equipment grounding conductor (bare or green ) to the metal box with a 10-32 green grounding screw and to the green screw on the GFCI receptacle . There is a tapped hole in the back of the metal box for the 10-32 screw.. The grounding of the box can NOT be dependent on the receptacle so that if you remove the receptacle the box is still grounded as is the receptacle. You could also use a pair of Madison clips to attach the metal box to the trailer if you did not want to rivet. just trim the wings to accommodate the thinner wall thickness of the fiberglass
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Old 08-20-2012, 01:33 PM   #26
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Thanks everyone for your advise. While across the line this week-end I did indeed discover a number of different plastic electrical boxes that will work in the Lowes that we dont seem to have here in Canada. Several of them had the attachments exactly as I want them for riveting and the outside cover I have will hide the rivet heads.. Ended up buying a couple of different ones - one of them is a white one that isnt a deep as a regular box (fits well in the location I want it).

Wondered if someone can tell me what the difference between a white plastic receptacle box vs the blue ones are? Is there a downside to using the white boxes?
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