Need help with exterior 110 power outlet install

[Jim Bennett]

I have used the metal reno box successfully, in fact it is what is used in a new installation at Escape. With a good waterproof cover, there is nothing to worry about. It was less than 30 minutes for me to cut the hole, and install the box and plug. I did add a bit of sealant to the gasket on the cover to assure a good seal.

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

I have used the metal reno box successfully, in fact it is what is used in a new installation at Escape. With a good waterproof cover, there is nothing to worry about. .

Thanks Jim, for confirming that the metal ones have been use! I bought one as I couldnt find a plastic one that would work as well, but then thought I had better check first if it was ok to use.

[Roy in TO]

Hi Carol,
I used one of these, no box needed, took a wire from the GFI I installed under the sink: Product Datasheet -- HBL61CM65

$29 at Amazon.

[steve dunham]

Originally Posted by Dennis Clinton

Is the outside box going to be flush or exterior mounted? If it's flush, you can use any of the new plastic boxes(they make a remodel or retrofit box that will clamp to the siding), then use a waterproof cover on the outside. If using an exterior mount, you can get a waterproof box with flanges on the back to screw to the walls. I prefer the flush mount, but have thought of mounting an exterior box under the trailer.
Not sure of your box your are tapping from. On my Scamp, I could break the tab off from the inside of the box.
Be sure to use a gfi duplex for the exterior.

They make single gang cut in boxes in blue plastic (Carlon), beige fiberglass (Allied) ,and brown fiber ( T&B or Sylvania) They are made to be cut into existing walls (Remodels) and have various mounting brackets (systems) that can be tightened from the front and accommodate different wall thicknesses. (IE 3/8" rock -1/2" rock - 5/8" rock 3/4"wood panels) Remodel boxes come with cable clamps for securing the cable because there is no way to secure the cable to a wall stud when the wall is already finished. Beware that because of the design of the box , internal cable clamps and shallow depth of the box that a GFCI receptacle will be a very tight fit and you would be best to run only one cable into the box

[steve dunham]

Originally Posted by Carol H

Thanks Jim, for confirming that the metal ones have been use! I bought one as I couldnt find a plastic one that would work as well, but then thought I had better check first if it was ok to use.

Make sure you bond (attach) the equipment grounding conductor (bare or green ) to the metal box with a 10-32 green grounding screw and to the green screw on the GFCI receptacle . There is a tapped hole in the back of the metal box for the 10-32 screw.. The grounding of the box can NOT be dependent on the receptacle so that if you remove the receptacle the box is still grounded as is the receptacle. You could also use a pair of Madison clips to attach the metal box to the trailer if you did not want to rivet. just trim the wings to accommodate the thinner wall thickness of the fiberglass

[Carol H]

Thanks everyone for your advise. While across the line this week-end I did indeed discover a number of different plastic electrical boxes that will work in the Lowes that we dont seem to have here in Canada. Several of them had the attachments exactly as I want them for riveting and the outside cover I have will hide the rivet heads.. Ended up buying a couple of different ones - one of them is a white one that isnt a deep as a regular box (fits well in the location I want it).

Wondered if someone can tell me what the difference between a white plastic receptacle box vs the blue ones are? Is there a downside to using the white boxes?