New Electrical System from ground up and New Fridge

[Rusty99]

Hi folks,
I have a 1972 Boler with no electrical, no lights, no battery, no fridge etc... so I'm looking recommendations on how to setup a electrical system including a fridge.

Here's my thoughts so far. I want to be able to run or install the following items.
- multiple LED interior lights
- 2 exterior LED porch lights
- Stereo with 2 inside speakers and 2 outside speakers
- LED patio lights around my awning
- 2 exterior 110 sockets and 3 interior sockets
- Fridge
- possibly a hot water heater
- Fantastic Fan

My plan is to mount the battery inside the boler and I would like to have a way to charge the battery while the boler is being towed.

I'm very new to the electrical end of things so need some recommendations on what model or brand of components I will need to purchase to get started.

Also a recommendation on the type of fridge I should consider purchasing. The previous owner removed the fridge and made cupboard.

Cheers
Russ

[Jared J]

I'm no expert, but I just installed a PD 4045 converter, and it works great. I installed a neutral distribution block to keep all the wiring neat.

[Thomas G.]

The way to charge the trailer battery from the tow vehicle is to to connect a heavy wire, at least 10 gauge, but heavier is better, to the tow vehicle battery and run it all the way back to the trailer battery. Also run a separate ground wire of the same gauge. Many provide isolation through a relay at the tow vehicle battery to prevent accidental discharge when the engine is not running. Use a 7 pin connector on the trailer to tow vehicle electrical interface. Also install at least a 30 amp (sized to the wire you use) circuit breaker at the tow vehicle battery AND the trailer battery.

If you plan to run the refrigerator on 12 volts, wire gauge is even more critical. In that case I would go 6 or 4 gauge. You can buy this wire new very cheaply at a metal recyclers.

The converter that Jason recommends above is a good choice and will give you 110 volt and 12 volt breakers / fuses all in one box. Be sure to install the battery in a sealed box that is vented to the outside.
http://www.adventurerv.net/vented-ba...FfBDMgodFnUAvA

[Donna D.]

There are all kinds and types of refrigerators. Three-way, two-way, 12-volt, 110v electric only... some consider an icebox a "refrigerator."

What kind/type of refrigerator are you desiring? If you're looking for retro, electric only... I really like this one and it also comes in black.

Nostalgia Electrics Retro Series 3.1-Cubic Foot Compact Refrigerator Freezer

[Jon Vermilye]

Even if you are planning to use a sealed battery, f you are planning to mount the it inside the trailer, be sure it is vented to the outside & sealed from the living area. Check This Thread.

[Thinh]

Believe me, regarding to total from ground up of electrical works, it involves complexity and details, not mention about accuracy and technical minds. There are different branches in there: Chassis harness for trailer, chassis trailer harness to lights/brakes...of trailer, AC circuitry/components of trailer, DC circuitry/components of trailer, TowVehicle hookup for harness, brake controller....Here is some of my works, not even 1/3 of it-total from ground up-One must divide them into blocks, installs each branch, testing each component/branch/block...) before hook up to network to assure no headache...BE SAFE

[Thinh]

Due to the complexity of electrical works for RV, I only suggest whoever does it, completely from ground up should be careful, concentrated and be..safe. Even just an amarteur, but with experiences and hundred of times wiring, I am kind of...ignorant and the bottom line I had to pay for it, luckily not hazard. Share with you some of my photos in electrical works. Due to schematic I made my own and in...my mind, sometimes the coconut wanders around and bottom line is I had to re-do it. First few photos are result of carelessness, then it took a whole afternoon to find out wrong connection. Now, everything is OK with tests. You could see upper bunk and lower bunk with their own DC reading lights and also 120VAC lights. Also checking exterior outlet of 120VAC, 12VDC flood light at the rear of RV under....the rain...Also I made sure the converter having plenty of room around/bottom for easy services and ventilation. Cheer!

[Thinh]

When bought a 12VDC water pump on sale from store, it olny has rates of Power(P) and voltage(V). To reduce wring with protection, I add an in-line fuse and the amperage is determined by: I= P/V. For ex, if power is 100watts for 10volts then amperage is 10Amp. Share with you some more photos: Clearance of converter, water pump installation with in-line fuse, testing rear 12V flood lights...

[Thinh]

...Coming back with more photos of electrical panel on completion. Also an answer for Raz awhile ago about replacing battery with smart charger. Yeah, replacement a battery for a battery charger is do-able and I show you the photos of mine in test with...my own schematic. Like you said, it only take faster to die out compared to regular battery. But at least, now I have chance to use an un-used battery charger and no need to buy battery unlessfor a future long trip with dry-camping. Share with you my completion of panel with all kinds of tests...

[RogerDat]

Finding a local source for different color wire (including with stripe) can save you some head aches. As can a book of letter/number tag strips to label the wires.

Both accomplish the same thing they make documenting and tracking the wires and identification at "source" and "device" easier for testing.

And I don't mean any insult to you personally if you already know this but don't splice in a piece of different colored wire to use two short pieces up. I only mention it because I have no forgiveness in my heart for every time I have ever run into that.

It was green w/ yellow stripe at the panel and switch but blue at the freaking light? No wonder I couldn't figure out connection lead to test! Isn't that corner of Hell already crowded enough?

BTW Randy - Nice picts of some nice looking work.

[Thinh]

When one does electrical works for a paycheck, he must have qualification and do the work according to standards. Same if he makes the product to put on the market for profit. I am no trade man of any kind but I could do most of the works ( from painting, body works, weldings....-you could see in photos-) for my own use and I will be the one to service it when something happens. At least I did put labels for safety and easy access for myself down the road, that's all it counts. One does the works by himself alone, he would use whatever available for saving money and that is what I did. Too bad, no one hires me as a welder, painter or electrician but i am always happy when I never need them for my hobbies and that is also a reason why I show up in this forum, a place for non-skill trade men....I wish I got the money, of course following the standards is always the way to do....Cheer!

[Thinh]

Today, I installed LED tail lights, complete chassis harness with both 7-pin and 4 -pin connectors at hitch receiver. All are tested and O.K. Share with you some photos. Next, electrical hook up for brake controller and electric brake adjustment for trailer. Then trimming and new floor for Trillium before the final paint job...The final extra will be an external fresh water tank with mobility(on wheel)...

[steve dunham]

Originally Posted by RogerDat

Finding a local source for different color wire (including with stripe) can save you some head aches. As can a book of letter/number tag strips to label the wires.

Both accomplish the same thing they make documenting and tracking the wires and identification at "source" and "device" easier for testing.

And I don't mean any insult to you personally if you already know this but don't splice in a piece of different colored wire to use two short pieces up. I only mention it because I have no forgiveness in my heart for every time I have ever run into that.

It was green w/ yellow stripe at the panel and switch but blue at the freaking light? No wonder I couldn't figure out connection lead to test! Isn't that corner of Hell already crowded enough?

BTW Randy - Nice picts of some nice looking work.

The NEC requires that the neutral conductor be marked to indicate which hot conductor or breaker it is associated with (Brady markers are often used) I use Brady markers to mark both the DC + & - and AC hot & neutral making it much easier for trouble shooting