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Old 07-30-2014, 07:55 AM   #1
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ParkLiner fuse box - questions

While my ParkLiner was at the factory last week, someone labeled 7 of the 12 fuses (I had already labeled one), so now I have 8 labels for 12 fuses. Is this the same sort of order of any you other ParkLiner owners, and if so, what would the other 4 be for? Tail lights maybe? What else?



My next question concerns circuit breakers. I have the 30 amp main on the left, but what are the other two 15 amp circuits for? In the new DVD they send out, one of them is for the dual propane/electric hot water heater, but I don't have one of those (yet). Would they just be set in there unconnected for later use? I have no clue how to remove these!



finally, a pic of the fuse box with cover open:



Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Frank
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Old 07-30-2014, 09:37 AM   #2
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Old 07-30-2014, 09:50 AM   #3
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Okay, thanks Huck. The only thing I'm missing that you have is the fridge, and of course the water heater ignition. Maybe 6 on mine is the fridge. I'll check when I get home.

I wonder where the breaker for the AC is?

So yours shows the 30 amp main breaker, and identifies the middle breaker as split between the two side receptacles, and then the right breaker for hot water, which I don't have. It makes me wonder if that breaker is "spare", i.e., not hooked up and available for when I put in a hot water heater like the new ParkLiners have?

I obviously need to learn more about these electrical boxes!

Frank
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Old 07-30-2014, 10:48 AM   #4
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Frank,
The 30A is the main shut off. The two 15A breakers are for Port and Starboard sides respectively. Since the A/C is on the Port side I imagine it runs off the Port side breaker. Easy to test. Turn on the A/C and shut off the Port breaker. If the A/C goes off, you've got the right one. The empty spot is for future use if you upgrade your water heater.

Same thing with the unlabeled 12V fuses. Turn on everything and pull the fuse and see what goes off. You may need a DC voltmeter to check the 12 function of the refrigerator unless you are very, very patient.
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Old 07-30-2014, 10:59 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by Brian M. in NY View Post
Frank,
The 30A is the main shut off. The two 15A breakers are for Port and Starboard sides respectively. Since the A/C is on the Port side I imagine it runs off the Port side breaker. Easy to test. Turn on the A/C and shut off the Port breaker. If the A/C goes off, you've got the right one. The empty spot is for future use if you upgrade your water heater.

Same thing with the unlabeled 12V fuses. Turn on everything and pull the fuse and see what goes off. You may need a DC voltmeter to check the 12 function of the refrigerator unless you are very, very patient.
Thanks Brian. I did not notice that there was a spot to the right for another circuit breaker, but looking at my pics, I see it now. Looking in behind the fuse panel I don't see any wires leading to the breakers on top, but will take another look when I get home. I need to be able to at least figure out how to put a breaker in here for the new hot water heater, but that's a ways off anyways (like next year).

It's very strange to me that the AC would share a side circuit with other outlets. When I put an AC unit in our old Sunline, I gave it its own 15 amp breaker!

Ya learn something every darn day!

Frank
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Old 07-30-2014, 12:20 PM   #6
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Is that a PD4045 panel? If so, the one I installed has twelve 12 volt fuses which I only used 6 of them. I wouldn't think any camper in this size range would need all 12.
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Old 07-30-2014, 12:24 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by mary and bob View Post
Is that a PD4045 panel? If so, the one I installed has twelve 12 volt fuses which I only used 6 of them. I wouldn't think any camper in this size range would need all 12.
Yes it is Bob or Mary. Actually a PD4045KA. 9 of my 12 spots are used. Who knows what might come up? I think ParkLiner uses these boxes because they are pretty much the leaders in the industry.

Frank
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Old 07-30-2014, 03:41 PM   #8
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From what I've read about Parkliner's wiring can you even count on every trailer being wired exactly the same? Meaning is every trailer using the same fuse for the same circuit, or did they just wire things randomly. If so then asking other Parkliner owners what fuse does what could be meaningless. You need to verify this for your own trailer to be sure.
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Old 07-30-2014, 04:06 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by mary and bob View Post
From what I've read about Parkliner's wiring can you even count on every trailer being wired exactly the same? Meaning is every trailer using the same fuse for the same circuit, or did they just wire things randomly. If so then asking other Parkliner owners what fuse does what could be meaningless. You need to verify this for your own trailer to be sure.
Bob or Mary, they labeled mine at my request when our trailer was there last week, so I'm fairly confident it is correct. It is obliviously different from newer ones (like Huck's) that have pre-printed labels and are standardized. It is my belief that the first trailers ParkLiner built for sale were randomly wired, but I can't be sure of that. Certainly mine is very different from Huck's!

I got my new bath door handle in today to replace the one that somehow broke while at the plant...

Frank
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Old 07-30-2014, 09:31 PM   #10
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Frank, I'm with Brian - just turn off each breaker one at a time and see what doesn't work, then start pulling one fuse at a time and see what doesn't work. Some of the fuses might just be spares pushed into a dead socket for handy storage until needed to replace a blown fuse in an active socket. Can you remove the access cover from the breaker/fuse box and get a peak at the back side of the box to see if there are indeed wires attached to each fuse socket? If no wires, then the socket is just being used for spare fuse storage - which is worth knowing.
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Old 07-31-2014, 04:44 AM   #11
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My problem is I can't find instructions for this unit (PD4045KA) that tells me how to do anything. I can of course flip circuits and pull fuses to see what's what, but not sure how to wire anything in. Basically I just need time to pole around in there without shore power or batteries hooked up! It can't be that difficult.

Frank
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Old 07-31-2014, 06:00 AM   #12
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Our PD4045 came with short wire leads from each 12 volt fuse. Fuses and wires were all numbered, 1 through 12 but a couple of the wires were marked wrong. I found this by checking with a multimeter. Someone else found mismarked wires too. I wonder if the KA is different than my 4045? I'll look up my instruction book when I get home from this camping trip. Maybe I could make a copy for you Frank. I left the fuses out of the circuits that I didn't use so as to not have hot wires hanging there.
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Old 07-31-2014, 06:07 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by mary and bob View Post
Our PD4045 came with short wire leads from each 12 volt fuse. Fuses and wires were all numbered, 1 through 12 but a couple of the wires were marked wrong. I found this by checking with a multimeter. Someone else found mismarked wires too. I wonder if the KA is different than my 4045? I'll look up my instruction book when I get home from this camping trip. Maybe I could make a copy for you Frank. I left the fuses out of the circuits that I didn't use so as to not have hot wires hanging there.
Bob, I think the KA has 4 breakers, the plain 4045 has 3, but am not positive. Mine has 4 positions for breakers, what does yours have?

Thanks!

Frank
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Old 07-31-2014, 06:21 AM   #14
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Think you're right Frank, I'm sure ours has only 3 breakers, the main plus two circuits. So I would think it may not be a good idea to have fuses where it's not hooked up to anything as that puts power in a wire that may be just hanging there with a bare end exposed.
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Old 07-31-2014, 06:30 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by mary and bob View Post
Think you're right Frank, I'm sure ours has only 3 breakers, the main plus two circuits. So I would think it may not be a good idea to have fuses where it's not hooked up to anything as that puts power in a wire that may be just hanging there with a bare end exposed.
I absolutely agree Bob! How do I get this stuff exposed so I can see what the deal is? I figure this is my weekend project, been too busy at work!

Frank
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Old 07-31-2014, 06:43 AM   #16
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The front cover snaps on as I recall. Removing it will get you to the innards. The 12 volt wires hang out the back, so depending on how and where the unit is mounted will determine access to the back.
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Old 07-31-2014, 06:51 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by mary and bob View Post
The front cover snaps on as I recall. Removing it will get you to the innards. The 12 volt wires hang out the back, so depending on how and where the unit is mounted will determine access to the back.
I have good access to the back, but only see main heavy gauge wires there. I'll try to figure out how to snap the front cover off maybe tonight. Thanks!

Frank
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Old 07-31-2014, 07:37 AM   #18
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The label on your trailer's PD breaker panel says it is CTL rated. The number and type of AC circuit breakers that may be installed in the panel are limited .They do make CTL & NON CTL breakers which are the tandem style IE 15-15. 15- 20. 20 - 20 breakers .Your panel may accept 4 or 5 or 6 or 7 total AC circuits depending on the design of the panel buss.
Non CTL breakers are available at an electrical suppply house
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Old 07-31-2014, 07:43 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by steve dunham View Post
The label on your trailer's PD breaker panel says it is CTL rated. The number and type of AC circuit breakers that may be installed in the panel are limited .They do make CTL & NON CTL breakers which are the tandem style IE 15-15. 15- 20. 20 - 20 breakers .Your panel may accept 4 or 5 or 6 or 7 total AC circuits depending on the design of the panel buss.
Non CTL breakers are available at an electrical suppply house
Is it safe to use non-CTl breakers in a CTl panel Steve? What kind or brand of breaker do these panels use?

Thanks!

Frank
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Old 07-31-2014, 08:10 AM   #20
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I think I finally found a manual for this panel: http://www.progressivedyn.com/pdfs/1...ish%20Only.pdf
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