Planning my solar layout - Will this work?

[Kevin K]

I have a portable solar panel for my trailer for outside.

I plan on putting the solar panel, inside the trailer by a window when traveling, to collect the sun's rays. I want to use a wall receptacle inside the trailer just for the solar panel plug in.
Will this setup work? (see photo)
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[Thomas G.]

From a wiring standpoint it will work. I personally don't like to use 110 volt fixtures for other than their intended purposes. You don't want some innocent plugging your solar panel into a live wall socket.


If I was doing this I would use this style plug:

Amazon.com: CES 10 Gauge 2 Pin Quick Disconnect Harness: Automotive

[Joe MacDonald]

the male plug on the panel could short out if the panel was generating electricity,
I would make sure to follow general rules like AC plugs are for AC, find different ones for DC.
Anything that is live or generating power should be a female plug to prevent shock or arc.

[Otters]

I see you have a fuse just before the battery. I'll be installing my solar soon and while shopping for parts, I didn't know what size fuse I should put in for a 100w solar panel and 30A MPPT controller. Thoughts???

[GMike A]

I totally agree with Tom for connections. Also I would recommend or consider Anderson Pole connectors. They are configurable and will handle all the current you need as well as being able to polarize them. Just a thought.
Mike

[Dave Storey]

Hi here are few vids on solar panel install etc to give you some ideas \

Solar panel mounting system on top of a 1976 Boler trailer. - YouTube

1200 Watt Inverter wiring in a Boler trailer - YouTube

MPPT Solar Controller Installation in a 1976 Boler - YouTube

Have fun

[GMike A]

Thanks for the videos and again to echo Tom to use 110 or 220vac connectors for anything other then their intended purpose is not a good idea. I'm sure you will get tired of hearing it. The next future owner might not understand the intent. The connectors that Tom showed are great just remember to always keep the + polarity hidden inside the connector shell and not the male sticking out. All my Ham equipment in my house and car are wired with the Andersons as an FYI.

[rabbit]

Good point about making the positive lead shielded on the flat connectors. Unfortunately, hookup to the battery with only one set means that there's an exposed hot contact coming from either the panel or the battery. If you used an extension cord, you'd have the hot side shielded on both; + would be the exposed contact on both ends of the extension. Even that isn't the best situation, is it? If you go with the flat connnectors get the ones with 10 gauge conductors shown by Tom. A lot of these are 16awg and create a resistance bottleneck. If you go with the Anderson pole connectors, be aware that the contacts are difficult to crimp correctly without the proprietary luggers from Anderson (or equivalent), none of which are inexpensive for a one time job.

jack

[Frederick L. Simson]

Originally Posted by Thomas G.

If I was doing this I would use this style plug:

Amazon.com: CES 10 Gauge 2 Pin Quick Disconnect Harness: Automotive

My solar panels came from the factory with these connectors installed.

[GMike A]

How do you like that solar kit Fred? I see they are on sale now for either 129 or 149. Yes you are right Anderson power poles are not cheap but good. I get my Anderson's here at about half price. Andy Crimp Pro - PowerPoles, Tools - Powerpole Tools - Andy Crimp Pro - High Sierra with over 625 Products

[Frederick L. Simson]

Originally Posted by GMike A

How do you like that solar kit Fred?

I like it well enough to own 2 of them. One is permanently mounted on the roof of my workshop. It keeps a portable Group 27 battery topped up at home between camping trips. I use the battery when boondocking to run a 300 watt inverter.


The other I carry in a factory reject ABS Electric Guitar Case to use during boondocking trips.

[Ron F]

I doubt that mounting the panel inside near a window will provide enough power to be worth the wiring and effort. Besides, you can charge the battery with the 12v connection to you tug. Why not just keep your battery charged from the tow vehicle and connect your panel outside when you're parked. Here's a neat way to make the connection outside: http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ing-38147.html .

[Raz]

I agree with Ron, not worth the effort. Raz

[Thomas G.]

Originally Posted by GMike A

How do you like that solar kit Fred? I see they are on sale now for either 129 or 149. Yes you are right Anderson power poles are not cheap but good. I get my Anderson's here at about half price. Andy Crimp Pro - PowerPoles, Tools - Powerpole Tools - Andy Crimp Pro - High Sierra with over 625 Products

I just soldered my Anderson connections. You can buy Anderson connectors on eBay, though they may be overkill for this application.

[Kevin K]

My new plan. Still want to see if I get any solar watts from the solar panel using it inside.

[GMike A]

Yes you are right for current application but I was thinking more along the lines of Voltage identification. I havent laid my master wiring diagram out yet but am going to utilize the color spectrum of the connectors for different items. At first I thought I would use ANSI specs and then after a moment of sanity decided to KISS as no one will care as long as I document it. Per ANSI I will use this:
Current Capacity of Wire
The following table shows the maximum rated current capacity of plastic insulated copper wire. Temperature affects current capacity of a given wire and the type of insulation. This table shows generally accepted values. Length will affect voltage drop but not for such short distances.
Wire Gauge Maximum Current Capacity
10 45 Amperes
12 30 Amperes
14 25 Amperes
16 20 Amperes
18 15 Amperes
20 10 Amperes

[GMike A]

Originally Posted by Kevin K

Attachment 56907
My new plan. Still want to see if I get any solar watts from the solar panel using it inside.

Good plan and good connectors. Of course you can get solar from inside. Just a matter of angle, intensity and duration. Go for it and then publish your results on this thread. I would be interested in your results

[rabbit]

These flat connectors usually come in a 12" loop between terminals. You cut them in two pieces but leave them matched in pairs and the conductor insulation will match the polarity of the terminal connection both in and out. Your second drawing indicates otherwise which would be the case if all pigtails have red conductor on the female (insulated) terminal and the black on the male (exposed) terminal. The black to red insanity will of course work as copper doesn't know black from red. It also won't know positive from negative so there's a bit of a head-scratcher there in connecting splices and terminations. The short form is that the hermaphrodite terminal connector assures hooking up in correct polarity but neither male nor female DEFINES polarity. Hope that makes sense. I know it's a quibble.

jack

[Kevin K]

rabbit
Good catch.
I will make sure I have + connected and - connected the correct way.