Portable solar panel(s) plugged into 7-pin connector??? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV
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Old 05-18-2019, 11:08 AM   #21
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Name: Michael
Trailer: Trail Cruiser
Alberta
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The 7 pin connector integrates the tug's and the trailer's electrical systems, including the charging circuits for both batteries. I connected my solar panels to the trailer side of this connector so they will always charge the trailer battery.
The tug's electrical system is isolated from the trailer except when the tug is running so as not to discharge the battery.
I also have a switch to connect the tug and trailer batteries if necessary to provide additional power for the trailer. This same switch allows me to charge both the trailer battery and the tug battery.
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Old 05-18-2019, 12:42 PM   #22
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Trailer: Escape 21, behind an '02 F250 7.3 diesel tug
Mid Left Coast
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Originally Posted by Wayne Collins View Post
When we had our Scamp, I installed a 12V "cigarette Lighter" socket just inside the door, and spliced it to the 12V wires feeding the fridge.
The small solar panel has a mating plug on the end of its wire.
Also bought a volt meter (battery monitor) that plugged into that same socket.
It could be left in there all the time, except when the solar was plugged in.
indeed, my Casita, my cigar plug battery monitor lived in the socket under the rear top cabinet, where it was visible from the curb side back window... and in the escape21, its in the cigar socket thats at the foot of the front queen bed, visible albeit sideways from the doorway. a quick glance lets you know your battery state and whether or not its on charging maintenance.
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Old 05-19-2019, 05:41 AM   #23
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My ideal setup would be similar, minus the generator. Somewhere around 100w on the roof, 100w portable, and 2 6v batteries. But for now I'm working on the rooftop solar. I'm not ready to alter my battery tray and spend the money on new batteries.
zach, you're taking a prudent approach. i did pretty much the same over a period of several years. changing one thing at a time made the whole process much simpler and you can evaluate the benefits (or not) of that change. plus you don't wind up replacing perfectly good parts of your 12v system (ie batteries, etc). since i'm mostly electrically "challenged" it was great for the learning process.

keep us posted on your progress...

p@
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Old 05-19-2019, 06:23 AM   #24
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Name: bill
Trailer: 2013 Escape 19
The Mountains of North Carolina
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Originally Posted by patrick crawford View Post
i use two 100w panels. one permanently mounted on the roof of my casita which stays connected to it's controller and the other mounted on the truck's topper roof that's connected to it's controller via cables that are connected when sitting still.
p@
I've always thought the space on the roof of my truck topper is a prime location for solar. And if the penetrations in the top leak a little, its not the end of the world, versus the roof of my camper. Thought of going as far as storing a battery inside the bed of the truck charging off the solar.

Its on the list, way down the list. But someday.
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Old 05-19-2019, 08:36 AM   #25
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Name: Z
Trailer: Sasquatch
Montana
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Originally Posted by patrick crawford View Post
zach, you're taking a prudent approach. i did pretty much the same over a period of several years. changing one thing at a time made the whole process much simpler and you can evaluate the benefits (or not) of that change. plus you don't wind up replacing perfectly good parts of your 12v system (ie batteries, etc). since i'm mostly electrically "challenged" it was great for the learning process.

keep us posted on your progress...

p@
I will! I'm actually finally motivated to get this done but...new leaf springs for my truck just took priority. If I really decide to get this all done and keep it prioritized, it'll happen this season.
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Old 05-19-2019, 08:51 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by patrick crawford View Post
i use two 100w panels. one permanently mounted on the roof of my casita which stays connected to it's controller and the other mounted on the truck's topper roof that's connected to it's controller via cables that are connected when sitting still.

p@
I use a similar approach. Started with one movable panel but some of our trips involve short distances while we park for long periods at National Parks (like Gettysburg).
Decided that a rooftop panel would be great most of the time so I got another panel and mounted it on the roof.
The rooftop panel is now the main panel, and if we park in the shade at the campground, I can deploy the movable panel to wherever the sun peaks through.
Since we have a tongue mounted battery on our Scamp, it was easy to just get a larger/taller 12 volt (155 AH) golf cart battery at the local golf cart store and that gives us more capacity than the standard battery (although less than two 6 volt golf cart batteries)
If our propane fridge ever bites the dust I would consider the 12 volt fridge with the Danfoss compressor but hoping our fridge lasts forever.
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Old 05-19-2019, 09:28 AM   #27
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Trailer: Hymer
California
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Originally Posted by patrick crawford View Post
i use two 100w panels. one permanently mounted on the roof of my casita which stays connected to it's controller and the other mounted on the truck's topper roof that's connected to it's controller via cables that are connected when sitting still. of course if the trailer's in the shade i can chase the sun by moving the truck. while underway my two 6v agm golf cart batteries (225ah total) are being charged by the trailer's panel and the truck's alternator. if there's sunshine i always arrive at the evening destination with fully charged batteries. this arrangement was put to the test with last winter's nearly 4 month trek west. according to my victron battery condition meter the batteries seldom dipped below 90% full charge. i did not try to minimize my 12v consumption and kept all my devices charged, used lights (led's), water pump and radio just as i would if plugged in at a campground. i do have a failsafe honda 2000i permanently mounted atop the trailer's tongue and hard wired directly to the trailer's converter in the event of prolonged inclement weather. the only time the honda was pressed into action was to occasionally use the electric toaster oven. i was so encouraged by the 12v performance that i returned home and promptly installed a 12v/120v (no gas) fridge, but...that's another post.
Great to hear. Except for the generator (which can be added later), this is exactly the setup I'm leaning toward: two 100w panels + two 6v golf cart batteries. Jim's light weight, flex panel installation looks ideal for the fiberglass pop-top on the Hymer.

Context for my original post was the thought of "starting" with a portable 100w panel, then adding a 2nd panel later if needed. But after some soul searching I realize that I care more about charging on the road than I do about ease of installation or cost.

Your setup and usage sound identical to what I've got in mind. Thanks.
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Old 05-19-2019, 09:36 AM   #28
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California
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Originally Posted by Mike_L View Post
I also have a switch to connect the tug and trailer batteries if necessary to provide additional power for the trailer. This same switch allows me to charge both the trailer battery and the tug battery.
Interesting idea.
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Old 05-22-2019, 11:05 AM   #29
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Name: Louis
Trailer: Big Foot
Alaska
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solar panel

I have two 100 watt solar panels on top of my Big Foot cab over camper on my F350. They are fasten down with industrial strength velcro.(I did not want to put holes in the top) I have the wire enter the camper where there was a TV hook up and connected them to the controller in the camper. Having said that they then connect straight to the battery. I have been using this set up for about 4 years now and it works pretty good here in Alaska.
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Old 05-22-2019, 12:26 PM   #30
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Name: Dave
Trailer: in the process of buying a Casita 17 Liberty Delux
Ohio
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I connect my solar panel to my 7-pin connector. Easy, no holes, works fine.

Dave Loebach
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